Refrigerator Energy Usage - cost-benefit analysis energy star

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Refrigerator Energy Usage - cost-benefit analysis energy star drydem 08-09-2008
Posted by drydem on August 9, 2008, 10:49 am
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Several months ago I posted energy usage data on my old refrigerator
[1] - I was debating on whether to replace my old fridge or not...

During that winter, I used a Kill-O-Watt Meter to measure the energy
usage of my old 18.6 cubic feet Kenmore refrigerator (model 8389210).
The 19 year old fridge was drawing about 1.4Kwh per day or about 511
Kwh/month. The old refrigerator's listed estimated energy cost was
$63.00 (at 6.75 cents per kwh) which translated to an estimated energy
usage of about 933 kwh/year - so I was initially surprised at the
variation. At the time I thought it might be due to my usage. At that
time in November, my freezer section was running at about 10 degrees
Fahrenheit and refrigerated section is running at 38 degrees
Fahrenheit [2]. Given that the ambient temperature was cooler (about
67 F) in the winter, I said I would measure the energy usage during
the summer to identify any variation in energy usage[3]. As pointed
out by a Mr. David Williams [4], at 10 degrees F the freezer was
underperforming =96 a hint that that it was dying.

By the summer, the freezer failure was obvious =96 the freezer section
was unable to get colder than 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Rather than
repaired it - I decide it would be a good time to replace the old
refrigerator with a new energy star refrigerator. I decided to get a
energy star 20.6 cubic feet top freezer refrigerator from Kenmore
(model 253.6817280) which is rated at 408 kWh/year [ This model is
slightly more energy efficient per cubic foot than the 18.0 cubic feet
Kenmore version which uses 383 kWh/year]

Before replacing the old fridge =96 I decided to measure its energy
usage again. This time I was only able to record the energy usage for
less than two days. On the last days of the old refrigerator, it was
using about 3.28 kWh/day which is equivalent to 1154 kWh/year - much
higher than 1.4 kwh/day and 511kwh/yr energy usage rate during the
winter. Since its the summer time the ambient room temperature is
much higher at about 80 degrees F in the afternoon and 76 degrees F in
the evenings. My usage of the old refrigerator has not changed since
November; however, the ambient room temperature is now about 15 degree
F warmer. This suggests that the more significant energy usage factor
(atleast in this situation) was the ambient room temperature - which
in this case varies over the year -so the cost is lower in the winter
and higher in the summer.

So far I=92ve had the new refrigerator hooked up to the Kill-o-Watt
meter for about a week. The new refrigerator=92s energy usage for 165
hours is 9.31 kWh - which translates to 1.35 kWh/day. If this energy
usage rate were to remain constant - it would translate to 492 kWh/
year. Currently, the freezer temperature is at 0 degrees F, the
refrigerated temperature is at 36 degrees F, and the current ambient
room temperature swings from an afternoon high of 82 degrees F to an
evening low of 72 degrees F. As observed previously with the older
refrigerator, the new refrigerator=92s energy usage rate will probably
be less when the ambient room temperature drops during the winter
months so I am thinking of doing another measurement in six months.

As far as ROI - the cost for a energy star refrigerator is about 100
dollars more than a non energy star refrigerator of the same size
given similar featues.

449.99 =3D 18.0 cubic feet non-energy star refrigerator (479 kwh/year)
499.99 =3D 20.6 cublic feet non-energy star refrigerator (498kwh/year)
549.99 =3D 18.0 cubic feet energy star refridgeator (383 kwh/year)
599.99 =3D 20.6 cubic feet energy star refrigerator (407kwh/year)

my cost broke down as follows:
599.99 =3D 20.6 cubic feet energy star refrigerator (407kwh/year)
085.00 =3D Delivery/Haul away
036.00 =3D taxes
720.99 =3D total cost for a 20.6 cu ft energy star refrigerator

Currently the cost of electricity is 16 cents per Kwh.
At that price one would need to save 625 kwh to justify
the extra $100 spent on the energy star version.
If the appliance energy usage rating ae somewhat close
then the non-energy star version uses 91 kwh/yr more per
year than the energy star version. So it will take
seven years to justify the cost of getting an energy star
fridge over a non-energy star version if current electrical cost
stay stable.

The energy saving per day for the summer days is
3.28kwh/day - 1.35kwh/day=3D 1.93kwh/day
That is to say the new fridge is 59% more energy efficient
than the old refrigerator. A non energy star refrigerator
would likely use 1.69kwh/day but still save
about 1.6kwh/day
=2E

Conclusion:
-------------
Energy star applicances appears only justifable if one is going to use
it for over 8 years
Even getting a new non-energy star refrigerator would povide some
energy saving over repairing and keeping a much older refridgerator.

The energy efficiency of a refrigerator is significantly impacted by
the room temperature


[1]
Newsgroups: alt.energy.homepower
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 04:12:24 -0800 (PST)
Local: Thurs, Nov 15 2007 8:12 am
Subject: Re: Question on Power Consumption limiting (A/C, ovens etc.)
[2]
Newsgroups: alt.energy.homepower
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 17:36:21 -0800 (PST)
Local: Tues, Nov 20 2007 9:36 pm
Subject: Re: Question on Power Consumption limiting (A/C, ovens etc.)

[3]
Newsgroups: alt.energy.homepower
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 02:18:33 -0800 (PST)
Local: Thurs, Nov 22 2007 6:18 am
Subject: Re: Question on Power Consumption limiting (A/C, ovens etc.)

[4]
Newsgroups: alt.energy.homepower
From: david.willi...@bayman.org (David Williams)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 23:00:03 -0600
Local: Wed, Nov 21 2007 1:00 am
Subject: Re: Question on Power Consumption limiting (A/C, ovens etc.)




Posted by Balanced View on August 9, 2008, 10:57 am
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drydem wrote:
> Several months ago I posted energy usage data on my old refrigerator
> [1] - I was debating on whether to replace my old fridge or not...
>
> During that winter, I used a Kill-O-Watt Meter to measure the energy
> usage of my old 18.6 cubic feet Kenmore refrigerator (model 8389210).
>
>

Snipped

So I guess the message for energy conservation should be "put your
fridge in the basement" ;~)
The math would interesting on that, my basement is always about 60 degrees.


Posted by Vaughn Simon on August 9, 2008, 11:20 am
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>Conclusion:
>-------------
>Energy star applicances appears only justifable if one is going to use
>it for over 8 years
>Even getting a new non-energy star refrigerator would povide some
>energy saving over repairing and keeping a much older refridgerator.

>The energy efficiency of a refrigerator is significantly impacted by
>the room temperature

Wow! Thanks for a well-done and informative post. Your ROI calculations are
a bit on the conservative side because it is probably not reasonable to assume
that energy costs will remain the same over the life of the appliance. On the
other hand, including cost of capital in your analysis would offset some of that
error in the other direction.

It is a shame that you did not take a closer look at why your refrigerator
was underperforming before you replaced it. Refrigerators have two correctible
problems that cause them to underperform:

1) The defrost system. This consists of a timer and one or more heaters inside
your freezer. The heaters tend to burn out after about 5 years, but your
freezer often just displays diminished performance thereafter without ever
failing completely. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to check this. One way
is to turn off the unit, open the door for an entire day, and observe how much
condensate is still dripping out of the unit hours later. If you get LOTS of
water, and it keeps dripping for hours and hours, and you can still feel
something cold in the back of your freezer, then you can safely assume that the
unit needed defrosting. After you allow it to completely defrost, the unit
should work better for a few weeks.

You can buy the parts and find replacement instructions on the Internet. I
did mine for about $35.00 in parts. The only tool I needed for the job was a
screwdriver. (My wife was terribly disappointed at my success, she wanted a new
refrigerator)

2) Dust buildup on the condenser or bad fan. Find your condenser (probably
under the bottom). Blow out the dust. If there is a fan, make sure that it is
in working order.



--
Vaughn

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Nothing personal, but if you are posting through Google Groups I may not receive
your message. Google refuses to control the flood of spam messages originating
in their system, so on any given day I may or may not have Google blocked. Try
a real NNTP server & news reader program and you will never go back. All you
need is access to an NNTP server (AKA "news server") and a news reader program.
You probably already have a news reader program in your computer (Hint: Outlook
Express). Assuming that your Usenet needs are modest, use
http://news.aioe.org/ for free and/or http://www.teranews.com/ for a one-time
$3.95 setup fee.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Will poofread for food.





[



Posted by drydem on August 10, 2008, 9:48 am
Please log in for more thread options
wrote:
>
>
> >Conclusion:
> >-------------
> >Energy star applicances appears only justifable if one is going to use
> >it for over 8 years
> >Even getting a new non-energy star refrigerator would povide some
> >energy saving =A0over repairing and keeping a much older refridgerator.
> >The energy efficiency of a refrigerator is significantly impacted by
> >the room temperature
>
> =A0 =A0Wow! =A0Thanks for a well-done and informative post. =A0Your ROI c=
alculations are
> a bit on the conservative side because it is probably not reasonable to a=
ssume
> that energy costs will remain the same over the life of the appliance. =
=A0On the
> other hand, including cost of capital in your analysis would offset some =
of that
> error in the other direction.

I used the fuel cost - 16 cents per 1kwh - which I remembered from
last spring.
I looked back on my electric bill today and realized you are correct -
my bill
for last month is $78.20 for 450 kwh which translates to about 17
cents per 1 kwh.
What I didn't include in my ROI calculation was the 75 dollar rebate
that I
supposedly will get back from the delivery charge (I haven't received
it as
of yet). Since I am not financing this purchase - there is no cost for
the
capital. The kill-o-watt meter is on loan from the public library.


>
> =A0 =A0 =A0It is a shame that you did not take a closer look at why your =
refrigerator
> was underperforming before you replaced it. =A0Refrigerators have two cor=
rectible
> problems that cause them to underperform:
>
> 1) The defrost system. =A0This consists of a timer and one or more heater=
s inside
> your freezer. =A0The heaters tend to burn out after about 5 years, but yo=
ur
> freezer often just displays diminished performance thereafter without eve=
r
> failing completely. =A0Unfortunately, there is no easy way to check this.=
=A0One way
> is to turn off the unit, open the door for an entire day, and observe how=
much
> condensate is still dripping out of the unit hours later. =A0If you get L=
OTS of
> water, and it keeps dripping for hours and hours, and you can still feel
> something cold in the back of your freezer, then you can safely assume th=
at the
> unit needed defrosting. =A0After you allow it to completely defrost, the =
unit
> should work better for a few weeks.
>
> =A0 You can buy the parts and find replacement instructions on the Intern=
et. =A0I
> did mine for about $35.00 in parts. =A0The only tool I needed for the job=
was a
> screwdriver. =A0(My wife was terribly disappointed at my success, she wan=
ted a new
> refrigerator)


By the way - I did look into this and yes the performance problem I
was
having with the old refrigerator suggest that a thermostat controlling
the
automatic defroster sequence was on the fritz. The suggested test that
I found to determine this would have been to manually defrost the
refrigerator and than turn it back on again - if the thermostat had
failed the old refrigerator performance problem would be temporarily
fixed until frost and ice clogged up the freezer's coils again. I
concurr
that I was so incline I could have dissembled the old refrigerator -
unlike
the new refrigerator documentation - the old refrigerator came with
maintenance manual describing how to dissemble the freezer section.
An yes the parts for the old refrigerator are available over the
internet.
But given that the refrigerator was very old - 19.5 years old - and
its door seals were going bad as well - my gut was telling me it
was time to replace it with a new one... Even though stainless steel
Kitchen appliances is very popular now - I couldn't justify the extra
cost since there was no operating or maintenance advantage to it.
I also eliminated ice makers and filtered water dispensers options
because the increased operational and capital cost as well as
made the units less reliable. I selected a 20.6 over a 18.0 cubic
size because the 20.6 cubic feet fridges were more energy
efficient per cubic foot than the 18.0 cubic feet units ( the
old fridge was rated at 18.6 cubic feet) .

Eventually - the only question I had to deal with was finding
a reliable unit that was inexpensive yet was energy
efficiency. Initially I got this list of units from the energystar
website but I found it was worthless since
the model numbers change every year - So I had either visit a
retail store or a website to look for actual models - initially
I was looking at Frigidaire and Whirlpool - but I ended
up buying a Kenmore...the same model that I currently have.

However, regardless of which maker you select,
the newer refrigerators are about 50% more energy efficient
than the older refrigerators. In my particular case the government
estimates the energy savings at 526 Kwh/year. At .17 cents per
kwh - the energy usage saving should be $89.42 - and if
energy prices continue to go up ( as history appears to strongly
suggest) the savings should likewise increase..

Assuming that the old refrigerator was repaired and
was now working up to its orginal specifications
for $50 dollars - The old refrigerator running an
estimated normalized energy usage rate of
933kwh/year it would cost $158.61 per year to run.
The new refrigerator running an estimated
nomalized energy usage rate o 407 kwh/year
would cost $69.19. Assuming nothing went wrong
with the old refrigerator for the next seven years:
( I up the repair cost to $50 since the old refrigerator's
door seals was going bad so I am including
new door insulations in the repair along with
replacing a bad defroster sensor)


The cost of an old refrigerator for eight years
$1318.88.=3D (158.61 * 8)+ 50 =3D operating cost estimate + repair
(insulation and sensor)

The cost of buy a new energy star refrigerator and operating it for
eight years
$1274.52 =3D (69.19 * 7) + 721 =3D 553.52 +7 =3D operating cost estimate +
capital cost for the new fridge


This calculation suggest that eight years is about
the break even point if energy cost remain the same.




> 2) Dust buildup on the condenser or bad fan. =A0Find your condenser (prob=
ably
> under the bottom). =A0Blow out the dust. =A0If there is a fan, make sure =
that it is
> in working order.
>
>
> --
> Vaughn

Posted by M Q on August 10, 2008, 10:24 am
Please log in for more thread options


drydem wrote:

...
> I used the fuel cost - 16 cents per 1kwh - which I remembered from
> last spring.
> I looked back on my electric bill today and realized you are correct -
> my bill
> for last month is $78.20 for 450 kwh which translates to about 17
> cents per 1 kwh.
> What I didn't include in my ROI calculation was the 75 dollar rebate
> that I
> supposedly will get back from the delivery charge (I haven't received
> it as
> of yet). Since I am not financing this purchase - there is no cost for
> the
> capital. The kill-o-watt meter is on loan from the public library.
>

You do have capital costs even if you don't finance because if you
didn't spend that money on the refrigerator you could either put it
in some long term investment (a CD with a term similar to refrigerator
life time?) or use it to pay down or off some other loan (mortgage?).
These are also sometimes called oppportunity costs. The choice of
interest rate to use for you analysis is not obvious, though.


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