Remote hydro.

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Subject Author Date
Remote hydro. gomango 03-17-2008
Posted by Eeyore on March 19, 2008, 3:55 pm
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gomango wrote:

> wrote:
> > gomango wrote:
> > > I have this master plan, and I would like a bit of advice from you
> > > all. I have a creek about 300 yards from the house, and in the winter
> > > the water level is pretty good. I was trying to figure out a way to
> > > pipe hydro power (for charging) up to the house without running copper
> > > lines to attempt to save a few $$.
> >
> > Well ... HYDRO power requires a head of water.
> >
> > Are you planning a waterwheel ?
> >
> > Why are you talking about using a compressor ? Drive a generator directly
> > from the water wheel. Using compressed air to transmit power is VERY
> > inefficient.
> >
> > Graham
>
> Well Graham,
>
> Thats why I posted in here before I undertook the project. To get a
> feel for the general direction. Air seemed like a good idea at first,
> but is looking quite grim now. I am beyond that now, and looking into
> another option. I didnt realize that it would be that inefficient.

Understood. Good luck with it.

Just my own observation. Most ordinary cable is good for 250V or so as opposed
to the 12 or 24V ? of your batteries.

If you have an AC generator, it's very easy to step the voltage up for
efficient transmission of the power from the waterwheel to power shed. 10 times
the voltage = 1/10 the current = 1/100 th the power loss for a given cable
gauge.

Even with DC it's very much worthwhile using a simple inverter type solution to
do the same.

Graham



Posted by You on March 19, 2008, 4:08 pm
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> Just my own observation. Most ordinary cable is good for 250V or so as opposed
> to the 12 or 24V ? of your batteries.

I don't know where you live but here in the USA, just about ANY
Electrical Utility Wire that is UL Rated, will have a 600V
Insulation Rating......

Posted by gomango on March 19, 2008, 4:14 pm
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wrote:
> gomango wrote:
> > wrote:
> > > gomango wrote:
> > > > I have this master plan, and I would like a bit of advice from you
> > > > all. =A0I have a creek about 300 yards from the house, and in the wi=
nter
> > > > the water level is pretty good. =A0I was trying to figure out a way =
to
> > > > pipe hydro power (for charging) up to the house without running copp=
er
> > > > lines to attempt to save a few $$.
>
> > > Well ... HYDRO power requires a head of water.
>
> > > Are you planning a waterwheel ?
>
> > > Why are you talking about using a compressor ? Drive a generator direc=
tly
> > > from the water wheel. Using compressed air to transmit power is VERY
> > > inefficient.
>
> > > Graham
>
> > Well Graham,
>
> > Thats why I posted in here before I undertook the project. =A0To get a
> > feel for the general direction. =A0Air seemed like a good idea at first,=

> > but is looking quite grim now. =A0I am beyond that now, and looking into=

> > another option. =A0I didnt realize that it would be that inefficient.
>
> Understood. Good luck with it.
>
> Just my own observation. Most ordinary cable is good for 250V or so as opp=
osed
> to the 12 or 24V ? of your batteries.
>
> If you have an AC generator, it's very easy to step the voltage up for
> efficient transmission of the power from the waterwheel to power shed. 10 =
times
> the voltage =3D 1/10 the current =3D 1/100 th the power loss for a given c=
able
> gauge.
>
> Even with DC it's very much worthwhile using a simple inverter type soluti=
on to
> do the same.
>
> Graham- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Im still trying to understand all this, but I think its sinking in. I
thank all of you who took the time to answer my questions and give
advice on the design. From here I just need to do a bit of measuring
and math to figure out the size and length of the wire, but I think I
need to know what the PMA from the honda puts out first. Im going to
take a no load measurement of voltage at various RPM's when the
machine shop has the flywheel shaft built. Untill then...

Dave

Posted by Ulysses on March 20, 2008, 1:47 pm
Please log in for more thread options

wrote:
> gomango wrote:
> > wrote:
> > > gomango wrote:
> > > > I have this master plan, and I would like a bit of advice from you
> > > > all. I have a creek about 300 yards from the house, and in the
winter
> > > > the water level is pretty good. I was trying to figure out a way to
> > > > pipe hydro power (for charging) up to the house without running
copper
> > > > lines to attempt to save a few $$.
>
> > > Well ... HYDRO power requires a head of water.
>
> > > Are you planning a waterwheel ?
>
> > > Why are you talking about using a compressor ? Drive a generator
directly
> > > from the water wheel. Using compressed air to transmit power is VERY
> > > inefficient.
>
> > > Graham
>
> > Well Graham,
>
> > Thats why I posted in here before I undertook the project. To get a
> > feel for the general direction. Air seemed like a good idea at first,
> > but is looking quite grim now. I am beyond that now, and looking into
> > another option. I didnt realize that it would be that inefficient.
>
> Understood. Good luck with it.
>
> Just my own observation. Most ordinary cable is good for 250V or so as
opposed
> to the 12 or 24V ? of your batteries.
>
> If you have an AC generator, it's very easy to step the voltage up for
> efficient transmission of the power from the waterwheel to power shed. 10
times
> the voltage = 1/10 the current = 1/100 th the power loss for a given cable
> gauge.
>
> Even with DC it's very much worthwhile using a simple inverter type
solution to
> do the same.
>
> Graham- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Im still trying to understand all this, but I think its sinking in. I
thank all of you who took the time to answer my questions and give
advice on the design. From here I just need to do a bit of measuring
and math to figure out the size and length of the wire, but I think I
need to know what the PMA from the honda puts out first. Im going to
take a no load measurement of voltage at various RPM's when the
machine shop has the flywheel shaft built. Untill then...

Once you know the output of two of the wires you can calculate the total
output by multiplying that by the square root of 3 (1.732). Once you
rectify it and use a smoothing capacitor you just read it with a DC
voltmeter. BTW the 3 Phase Basics link shows two different ways to convert
it to DC. Either will work with Delta or Wye. The bridge rectifiers tend
to be a little neater and it's pretty easy to find them with the proper
current and voltage range. Make sure you use heat sinks. Those six diodes
may look complicated but it's just three sets of two diodes connected in
series and then joined at the ends. You simply connect each of the three
outputs leads between one of each of the two series diodes. The top (if you
have the bands on the diodes at the top) is now Positive and bottom is
Negative. Connect a polarized (DC) capacitor from Positive to Negative
(the stripe on the capacitor is Negative). Make sure it 's rated for 300
volts or higher. I'm using a 270 uF capacitor but 100 uF might be enough.




Dave



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