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advice on broken solar panel z 06-16-2008
Posted by on June 17, 2008, 7:28 pm
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> beal...@gmail.com wrote
>
>
>
> >> Heya
>
> >> I picked up a Coleman CL 3600 solar panel kit for next to nothing..
> >> they are 3 18 watt panels -- two are in perfect shape, but one has
> >> the glass badly spidered.
>
> >> Its not broken broken.. just cracked badly and the cell itself seems
> >> OK. Just wondering if you guys had used any kind of magic spray that
> >> would seal up the cracks and keep the thing water proof. I could try
> >> to replace it but its encased in this housing that doesn't look like
> >> it was ever meant to be taken apart.
>
> >> I just want to keep the water out and not lose too much light
> >> penetration while not risking damaging the cell itself by replacing
> >> the glass.
>
> >> I have some POR-15 high temp clear coat I use on aluminum engine
> >> heads etc to keep the corrosion from coming back after polishing..
> >> dono what it would do on the glass.
>
> >> Any other ideas on magic spray/coating ?
>
> >> cheers
>
> >> -zachary (working on solar while the sun evaporates all my
> >> hydro-electric water)
>
> > Clear casting resin.
>
> like this stuff?
>
> http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=78

If you mean the "TAP Clear-Lite Casting Resin" yes.

Posted by Duane C. Johnson on June 16, 2008, 11:08 pm
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 Hi z;


> I picked up a Coleman CL 3600 solar panel kit for next
> to nothing.. they are 3 18 watt panels -- two are in
> perfect shape, but one has the glass badly spidered.

> Its not broken broken.. just cracked badly and the cell
> itself seems OK. Just wondering if you guys had used
> any kind of magic spray that would seal up the cracks
> and keep the thing water proof. I could try to replace
> it but its encased in this housing that doesn't look
> like it was ever meant to be taken apart.

> I just want to keep the water out and not lose too much
> light penetration while not risking damaging the cell
> itself by replacing the glass.

> I have some POR-15 high temp clear coat I use on
> aluminum engine heads etc to keep the corrosion from
> coming back after polishing.. dono what it would do on
> the glass.

> Any other ideas on magic spray/coating ?

The spray coatings just don't hold up in the long run.

The best solution is to laminate a thin sheet of acrylic
plastic, .02" or so, over the surface. Gob a heavy amount
of RTV on one end. Carefully start at the glue end and
while bending the sheet slowly roll the sheet down. The
gob of RTV should be squeezed out and make a clear contact
with little to no bubbles.

Once the sheet is down it should be weighted down and
clamped in place. Let it sit for at least a week. It
takes this long for the acetic acid to dissipate through
the plastic allowing the RTV to harden.

Cleanup only after the RTV is fully cured with a sharp
razor blade.

This should be more or less a permanent solution.

> cheers

> -zachary (working on solar while the sun evaporates
> all my hydro-electric water)

Duane

--
Home of the $35 Solar Tracker Receiver
http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm [*]
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Posted by z on June 16, 2008, 11:12 pm
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$39cecf19@news.twtelecom.net:

> Hi z;
>
>
> > I picked up a Coleman CL 3600 solar panel kit for next
> > to nothing.. they are 3 18 watt panels -- two are in
> > perfect shape, but one has the glass badly spidered.
>
> > Its not broken broken.. just cracked badly and the cell
> > itself seems OK. Just wondering if you guys had used
> > any kind of magic spray that would seal up the cracks
> > and keep the thing water proof. I could try to replace
> > it but its encased in this housing that doesn't look
> > like it was ever meant to be taken apart.
>
> > I just want to keep the water out and not lose too much
> > light penetration while not risking damaging the cell
> > itself by replacing the glass.
>
> > I have some POR-15 high temp clear coat I use on
> > aluminum engine heads etc to keep the corrosion from
> > coming back after polishing.. dono what it would do on
> > the glass.
>
> > Any other ideas on magic spray/coating ?
>
> The spray coatings just don't hold up in the long run.
>
> The best solution is to laminate a thin sheet of acrylic
> plastic, .02" or so, over the surface. Gob a heavy amount
> of RTV on one end. Carefully start at the glue end and
> while bending the sheet slowly roll the sheet down. The
> gob of RTV should be squeezed out and make a clear contact
> with little to no bubbles.
>
> Once the sheet is down it should be weighted down and
> clamped in place. Let it sit for at least a week. It
> takes this long for the acetic acid to dissipate through
> the plastic allowing the RTV to harden.
>
> Cleanup only after the RTV is fully cured with a sharp
> razor blade.
>
> This should be more or less a permanent solution.

ahh never thought of doing a laminate. Yeah .. gonna have to do some net
searching on that stuff and try to find a local source.

thanks a lot



>
> > cheers
>
> > -zachary (working on solar while the sun evaporates
> > all my hydro-electric water)
>
> Duane
>


Posted by z on June 16, 2008, 11:16 pm
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$39cecf19@news.twtelecom.net:

> Hi z;
>
>
> > I picked up a Coleman CL 3600 solar panel kit for next
> > to nothing.. they are 3 18 watt panels -- two are in
> > perfect shape, but one has the glass badly spidered.
>
> > Its not broken broken.. just cracked badly and the cell
> > itself seems OK. Just wondering if you guys had used
> > any kind of magic spray that would seal up the cracks
> > and keep the thing water proof. I could try to replace
> > it but its encased in this housing that doesn't look
> > like it was ever meant to be taken apart.
>
> > I just want to keep the water out and not lose too much
> > light penetration while not risking damaging the cell
> > itself by replacing the glass.
>
> > I have some POR-15 high temp clear coat I use on
> > aluminum engine heads etc to keep the corrosion from
> > coming back after polishing.. dono what it would do on
> > the glass.
>
> > Any other ideas on magic spray/coating ?
>
> The spray coatings just don't hold up in the long run.
>
> The best solution is to laminate a thin sheet of acrylic
> plastic, .02" or so, over the surface. Gob a heavy amount
> of RTV on one end. Carefully start at the glue end and
> while bending the sheet slowly roll the sheet down. The
> gob of RTV should be squeezed out and make a clear contact
> with little to no bubbles.
>
> Once the sheet is down it should be weighted down and
> clamped in place. Let it sit for at least a week. It
> takes this long for the acetic acid to dissipate through
> the plastic allowing the RTV to harden.

hmm.. not sure I could put much weight on this .. these panels are
elcheapo .. if they flexed at all it might break the giant mono-cell and
i'd be screwed. They aren't flat on the back, i'd have to build a mount
for it.. hmm..

I like the idea of a laminate of some kind though.. that does sound like
the best long term solution.

But a magic spray might hold me over.. hell when winter is here again I
won't care till next summer :)

cheers again


Posted by Jim Wilkins on June 17, 2008, 9:28 am
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> I like the idea of a laminate of some kind though.. that does sound like
> the best long term solution.
>
> But a magic spray might hold me over.. hell when winter is here again I
> won't care till next summer :)

Measure the voltage and current output with and without the cover
material before committing to it. Silicon cells are sensitive to
infrared which many clear plastics absorb.


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