can utility power jump main power cutoff switch?

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Subject Author Date
can utility power jump main power cutoff switch? Tom 07-04-2008
Posted by daestrom on July 8, 2008, 8:28 pm
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hubops wrote:
>>> http://www.interlockkit.com/intro2.htm
>
>> Interesting device. The closest I've seen to that was a set of locks
>> that threw bolts in front of breakers you should not operate. To
>> make sure you could not operate two breakers in conflicting states,
>> the key would stay captive in each lock depending on whether or not
>> the bolt it threw was or wasn't blocking the circuit breaker paddle.
>>
>> It may sound complex, but it was just a bunch of panel mount
>> deadbolts attached to the face of the breaker panel, far far cheaper
>> than some weird rotary switch.
>>
>
>
> I recently saw a keyed-interlock - in a new industrial setting -
> where you could remove the key - without the switch being
> turned OFF ... a little extra pressure in turning the key
> resulted in the "bowing" of the interlock mounting steel
> ( maybe 1/16 inch ) but it was enough to complete
> the key rotation to the point where the key came out.
> .. the panels are now replaced.

IMHO, key-interlock systems are only good at reminding knowledgable people
that there is a necessary interlock between two breakers. I've never found
a key system that couldn't be defeated by a determined, ignorant individual.

daestrom


Posted by Cydrome Leader on July 7, 2008, 4:12 pm
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phil-news-nospam@ipal.net wrote:
> | On 6 Jul 2008 22:51:26 GMT, phil-news-nospam@ipal.net wrote:
> |
> |
> |>It is quite normal for UL tests to test for voltages at least double that for
> |>which the device insulation is to be rated, and perhaps well more than that.
> |
> | <snippity>
> |
> |>UL testing procedure documents
> |>are available, but have a high cost, so I have not purchased them. If you
> |>really want to know for sure, you will have to part with some coin to see.
> |
> | So you know what is "quite normal for UL tests to test" and yet you've never
> | actually seen a UL test procedure. Hmmmm. This is the perfect example of
one
> | of the more remarkable phenomena on the net - someone writing a wordy article
> | on a topic about which he has absolutely no knowledge. In any other
> | environment, most folks would simply keep the lip zipped, listen and learn.
>
> Why don't you do some analysis, John. Or don't you know how? You could also
> post some specific facts if you are claiming to have them.
>
> You sound like Matthew L. Martin in disguise. Another persona?
>
>
> | Here's a suggestion, Phil. Look up what "Basic Impulse Load" (BIL) testing
> | consists of. That'll give you an inkling of just how silly your writing
> | really is. You don't have to buy a UL document to learn all about BIL
> | testing. You can simply go to an instrument company's website like Biddle
and
> | download a BIL tester's manual. While you're at it, learn about "Hi-Pot"
> | testing. The same companies that make BIL testers tend to also make Hi-Pot
> | testers so that shouldn't be too challenging for you to learn about both.
>
> I know what BIL is. Did I ever say I didn't? You seem to be jumping to
> (false) conclusions.
>
>
> |>The scenario of double voltage
> |>across an open breaker should not be allowed to be possible, regardless of
> |>whether the breaker can withstand it or not.
> |
> | Really? Quite a few authorities such as UL and the NEC tend to disagree with
> | you. Consider this fully approved gadget
>
> Then it needs to be specifically RATED at that double voltage ... 480 volts!
> It needs to SAY that so people know what they are getting.

Where do you keep coming up with 480 volts? Nobody in the US, where UL
listed items are key has 240 volts from neutral coming into their home.

Split 240 service is 120 volts to neutral x2. A 240 volt breaker can
handle that, even if you have 120 volts from the utility and generator
cranking out another 120 volts, out of phase. There's no 480 volts
anywhere.


Posted by on July 7, 2008, 6:06 pm
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wrote:

| Where do you keep coming up with 480 volts? Nobody in the US, where UL
| listed items are key has 240 volts from neutral coming into their home.

In an open circut situation, the voltage that applies is the full voltage
of the circuit, not the voltage to ground. For example you have a 240 volt
applicance (or for simpler case, consider a 240 volt light bulb) on its
own circuit. When the two pole breaker is OPEN, the voltage potential
across BOTH poles is the full 240 volts. That is a series circuit that
involves an open gap, the resistance of the branch circuit wiring to the
load, the load impedance itself (in non-operating condition, such as a
cold light bulb), the return wiring of the branch circuit, and the open
gap on the other pole. If you measure the voltage across the terminals
of ONE of the poles of the OPEN breaker, you can get anywhere up to the
full 240 volts. This will be the gap breakdown voltage.

Yes, it is 120 volts relative to ground. But the question is what is
relative between the two terminals of the open gap. That is 240 volts.


| Split 240 service is 120 volts to neutral x2. A 240 volt breaker can
| handle that, even if you have 120 volts from the utility and generator
| cranking out another 120 volts, out of phase. There's no 480 volts
| anywhere.

Replace the load in the above scenario with a 240 volt source phased to
add the voltages in the circuit loop and you will have an open gap voltage
that could add up to as much as 480 volts for the same reasons the case
with just a load could add up to 240 volts. But in this case, it can be
worse because there is no actual load in series to limit the current to
a low value. The limit would be somewhat greater than the available fault
current of the generator (which might not be much for most home generators
but would be more than most loads).

If the gaps do break down from the 480 volts open circuit potential, and
if the arc is sustained in both, this will give a voltage relative to
ground of just 120 volts, possibly reduced further by the high current
and the arc voltage drop. But it is a 480 volt open circuit potential
that has to be considered at both gaps.

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, googlegroups.com is blocked. Due to ignorance |
| by the abuse department, bellsouth.net is blocked. If you post to |
| Usenet from these places, find another Usenet provider ASAP. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |

Posted by Cydrome Leader on July 7, 2008, 6:37 pm
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phil-news-nospam@ipal.net wrote:
> On Mon, 7 Jul 2008 20:12:00 +0000 (UTC) Cydrome Leader
>
> | Where do you keep coming up with 480 volts? Nobody in the US, where UL
> | listed items are key has 240 volts from neutral coming into their home.
>
> In an open circut situation, the voltage that applies is the full voltage
> of the circuit, not the voltage to ground. For example you have a 240 volt
> applicance (or for simpler case, consider a 240 volt light bulb) on its
> own circuit. When the two pole breaker is OPEN, the voltage potential
> across BOTH poles is the full 240 volts. That is a series circuit that
> involves an open gap, the resistance of the branch circuit wiring to the
> load, the load impedance itself (in non-operating condition, such as a
> cold light bulb), the return wiring of the branch circuit, and the open
> gap on the other pole. If you measure the voltage across the terminals
> of ONE of the poles of the OPEN breaker, you can get anywhere up to the
> full 240 volts. This will be the gap breakdown voltage.
>
> Yes, it is 120 volts relative to ground. But the question is what is
> relative between the two terminals of the open gap. That is 240 volts.

you use tandem breakers for 240 volt split phase service. There is never
240 to ground or neutral.

> | Split 240 service is 120 volts to neutral x2. A 240 volt breaker can
> | handle that, even if you have 120 volts from the utility and generator
> | cranking out another 120 volts, out of phase. There's no 480 volts
> | anywhere.
>
> Replace the load in the above scenario with a 240 volt source phased to
> add the voltages in the circuit loop and you will have an open gap voltage
> that could add up to as much as 480 volts for the same reasons the case
> with just a load could add up to 240 volts. But in this case, it can be
> worse because there is no actual load in series to limit the current to
> a low value. The limit would be somewhat greater than the available fault
> current of the generator (which might not be much for most home generators
> but would be more than most loads).
>
> If the gaps do break down from the 480 volts open circuit potential, and
> if the arc is sustained in both, this will give a voltage relative to
> ground of just 120 volts, possibly reduced further by the high current
> and the arc voltage drop. But it is a 480 volt open circuit potential
> that has to be considered at both gaps

If you start to do stupid things like disconnect your neutrals (so you can
pretend you have 240 or 480 volts) you stand a great chance of destroying
half your loads to begin with, with or without a generator or interlocks
of any sort.

Let's pretend you did just that, you've got split phase 240 into your
already half burned out home, and some generator out back supplying the
same, and you removed all your neutrals and grounds.

you have 4 circuit breaker air gaps to jump with 480 volts. Are you now
going to state that circuit breakers in the US arc over at 120 volts?






Posted by Cydrome Leader on July 8, 2008, 12:22 am
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> phil-news-nospam@ipal.net wrote:
>> On Mon, 7 Jul 2008 20:12:00 +0000 (UTC) Cydrome Leader
>>
>> | Where do you keep coming up with 480 volts? Nobody in the US, where UL
>> | listed items are key has 240 volts from neutral coming into their home.
>>
>> In an open circut situation, the voltage that applies is the full voltage
>> of the circuit, not the voltage to ground. For example you have a 240 volt
>> applicance (or for simpler case, consider a 240 volt light bulb) on its
>> own circuit. When the two pole breaker is OPEN, the voltage potential
>> across BOTH poles is the full 240 volts. That is a series circuit that
>> involves an open gap, the resistance of the branch circuit wiring to the
>> load, the load impedance itself (in non-operating condition, such as a
>> cold light bulb), the return wiring of the branch circuit, and the open
>> gap on the other pole. If you measure the voltage across the terminals
>> of ONE of the poles of the OPEN breaker, you can get anywhere up to the
>> full 240 volts. This will be the gap breakdown voltage.
>>
>> Yes, it is 120 volts relative to ground. But the question is what is
>> relative between the two terminals of the open gap. That is 240 volts.
>
> you use tandem breakers for 240 volt split phase service. There is never
> 240 to ground or neutral.
>
>> | Split 240 service is 120 volts to neutral x2. A 240 volt breaker can
>> | handle that, even if you have 120 volts from the utility and generator
>> | cranking out another 120 volts, out of phase. There's no 480 volts
>> | anywhere.
>>
>> Replace the load in the above scenario with a 240 volt source phased to
>> add the voltages in the circuit loop and you will have an open gap voltage
>> that could add up to as much as 480 volts for the same reasons the case
>> with just a load could add up to 240 volts. But in this case, it can be
>> worse because there is no actual load in series to limit the current to
>> a low value. The limit would be somewhat greater than the available fault
>> current of the generator (which might not be much for most home generators
>> but would be more than most loads).
>>
>> If the gaps do break down from the 480 volts open circuit potential, and
>> if the arc is sustained in both, this will give a voltage relative to
>> ground of just 120 volts, possibly reduced further by the high current
>> and the arc voltage drop. But it is a 480 volt open circuit potential
>> that has to be considered at both gaps
>
> If you start to do stupid things like disconnect your neutrals (so you can
> pretend you have 240 or 480 volts) you stand a great chance of destroying
> half your loads to begin with, with or without a generator or interlocks
> of any sort.
>
> Let's pretend you did just that, you've got split phase 240 into your
> already half burned out home, and some generator out back supplying the
> same, and you removed all your neutrals and grounds.
>
> you have 4 circuit breaker air gaps to jump with 480 volts. Are you now
> going to state that circuit breakers in the US arc over at 120 volts?

My error here, you need to get your magic 480 to jump two breaker
contacts, if one of your sources (utility or genset) is set to run your
load. You're still welcomed to point out where UL says that snap in
circuit breakers can't handle those voltages.

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