cooling PV-panels with garden sprinklers usefull?

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cooling PV-panels with garden sprinklers usefull? jan siepelstad 05-17-2008
Posted by Ken Maltby on May 27, 2008, 11:42 pm
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>
> May you can figure out the approx. gain from cooling from
> this link.....
>
> http://users.tpg.com.au/users/robkemp/Power/MoreInfo.htm
>
> See Solar Panel Rating....close to the bottom of the page.
>
> have fun.....sno
>
> --


Good, some real support for an actual increase in performance,
over without cooling. At least a published position on the issue.
The manufacturer's spec sheet with performance graphed against
thermal conditions, would be the clincher, of course.

Luck;
Ken



Posted by sno on May 28, 2008, 1:11 am
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sno wrote:
>
> May you can figure out the approx. gain from cooling from
> this link.....
>
> http://users.tpg.com.au/users/robkemp/Power/MoreInfo.htm
>
> See Solar Panel Rating....close to the bottom of the page.
>
> have fun.....sno
>

Since you are going for maximum power out....if you do not
already have one I would suggest a maximum power point
tracker....explanation at bottom of link above...

I have seen, somewhere on the net, a schematic of one you
can build yourself....not able to find it at this time...

Maybe someone reading this knows where one is....schematic...

have fun....sno

> --
>
> If one side of a conflict considers it a religious
> war...doesn't that automatically make it a religious
> war....??
> Shouldn't "radical muslims" be called "extreme islamic
> fundamentalists"......???

Posted by Duane C. Johnson on May 28, 2008, 9:43 am
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Ulysses wrote:

> I followed some plans that included an inner tube in the
> upper cylinder (where the water pressure compresses some
> air, I think) and left out the inner tube because I
> couldn't see what it was for.

The inner tube was for the air cussion.
Yes, there can be an air cussion without the tube
but the air can slowly disolve in the water and the
pump will stop working. The tube retains the air.

Some designs also have a small "snifter" hole which
adds small bits of air to replenish the cussion.

> It worked fine without the inner tube. The dump valve
> does not seem to be very critical--I made one from a PVC
> tee fitting and an end cap with a few holes drilled in it
> with a stainless screw in the middle with a seal on the
> inside and a small weight on the outside. It worked on
> the first try. From what I read the biggest mistake some
> people made was using a flexible pipe to feed the pump.
> I used SCH 40 PVC and it was rigid enough. To me it's
> amazing that someone thought of it in the first place.
> But, I guess if electric motors haven't been invented yet...

> > John

Duane

--
Home of the $35 Solar Tracker Receiver
http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm [*]
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Energy (the SUN) / / |
Red Rock Energy / / |
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USA 55110-3364 === |
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Posted by Ulysses on May 28, 2008, 1:16 pm
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> Ulysses wrote:
>
> > I followed some plans that included an inner tube in the
> > upper cylinder (where the water pressure compresses some
> > air, I think) and left out the inner tube because I
> > couldn't see what it was for.
>
> The inner tube was for the air cussion.
> Yes, there can be an air cussion without the tube
> but the air can slowly disolve in the water and the
> pump will stop working. The tube retains the air.
>
> Some designs also have a small "snifter" hole which
> adds small bits of air to replenish the cussion.
>

Aah, the snifter hole. I forgot about that. I did use the snifter hole
design.


> > It worked fine without the inner tube. The dump valve
> > does not seem to be very critical--I made one from a PVC
> > tee fitting and an end cap with a few holes drilled in it
> > with a stainless screw in the middle with a seal on the
> > inside and a small weight on the outside. It worked on
> > the first try. From what I read the biggest mistake some
> > people made was using a flexible pipe to feed the pump.
> > I used SCH 40 PVC and it was rigid enough. To me it's
> > amazing that someone thought of it in the first place.
> > But, I guess if electric motors haven't been invented yet...
>
> > > John
>
> Duane
>
> --
> Home of the $35 Solar Tracker Receiver
> http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm [*]
> Powered by //|
> Thermonuclear Solar Energy from the Sun / |
> Energy (the SUN) / / |
> Red Rock Energy / / |
> Duane C. Johnson Designer / / |
> 1825 Florence St Heliostat,Control,& Mounts |
> White Bear Lake, Minnesota === / |
> USA 55110-3364 === |
> (651)426-4766 use Courier New Font |
> redrok@redrok.com (my email: address) |
> http://www.redrok.com (Web site) ===



Posted by Phil Ross on May 31, 2008, 1:01 pm
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>
> wrote:
>>
>>
>> >The RAM pump idea sounds like a possiblity for you but we don't know
> enough
>> >about your creek or terrain. If you have 4-5 gallons per minute from
> your
>> >creek you could use a 1" pump. If you have more than that then perhaps
>> >a
>> >larger pump might work. But the RAM pump wont develop much pressure so
> the
>> >water would need to be pumped into an elevated tank and use gravity for
> the
>> >water pressure. You also need a certain amount of "head" for the RAM
>> >pump
> to
>> >work but we don't know if you live on flat or hilly land.
>> >
>>
>> I haven't followed this very closely but I DO have lots of water ram
>> experience. Our previous cabin had one that ran literally for 50 years
> with
>> little more attention than occasionally replacing the leather valve. It
>> pumped water about 100 ft vertically and about 500 feet in distance from
> the
>> tiny creek that we got our drinking water from.
>>
>> I'd be afraid to guesstimate the creek's flow but probably in the 10-50
> gpm
>> range. The key to making a ram work is to have one SMALL enough to work
> with
>> the water available. Ours had perhaps a 4 ft drop which was more than
> enough.
>> The water emitted from the pipe at our cabin with gusto.
>
> The one I made was from PVC and it was only 1" and I had it going directly
> into a storage tank and I never tested the pressure but it sure didn't
> seem
> like much. So, you think one of those old cast iron pumps would run some
> sprinklers?
>
>>
>> There are plans on the net for making a ram using PVC pipe. They look
> like
>> they would work. And, of course, the original design cast iron rams are
> still
>> available.
>
> I followed some plans that included an inner tube in the upper cylinder
> (where the water pressure compresses some air, I think) and left out the
> inner tube because I couldn't see what it was for. It worked fine without
> the inner tube. The dump valve does not seem to be very critical--I made
> one from a PVC tee fitting and an end cap with a few holes drilled in it
> with a stainless screw in the middle with a seal on the inside and a small
> weight on the outside. It worked on the first try. From what I read the
> biggest mistake some people made was using a flexible pipe to feed the
> pump.
> I used SCH 40 PVC and it was rigid enough. To me it's amazing that
> someone
> thought of it in the first place. But, I guess if electric motors haven't
> been invented yet...
>

From Wikipedia for hydraulic ram:

"A pressure vessel containing air, cushions the hydraulic pressure shock
when the waste valve closes, and it also improves the pumping efficiency by
allowing a more constant flow through the delivery pipe. Although, in
theory, the pump could work without it, the efficiency would drop
drastically and the pump would be subject to extraordinary stresses which
would shorten its life considerably."



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