did I damage AVR (honda generator) ?

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did I damage AVR (honda generator) ? Mark 07-03-2008
Posted by Ulysses on July 4, 2008, 12:57 pm
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> ransley wrote:
> > You ran the unit in the rain! I hope it had a roof over it and did not
> > get wet. I mean that chassis ground is to protect you, not the gen,
> > units go bad or if its wet the operator can be killed
>
> yes, the top of the unit has a kind of lid that protects all parts in such
a way that
> no water hits any electric parts and the powerhead is located under
plastic fuel tank
> so also protected from rain
>
> ok, so the grounding wire is simply to protect me and unit would continue
to run even
> without proper ground wire, got it
>
> not sure then why it decided to turn off this time as I had no new load
starting when
> this occurred, both fridge and ac were running steadily, not turning off
and on when
> it decided to flicker lights and shut off.
>
> is there a simple way to diagnose what it will do under load to simulate
the event
> without actually connecting to house load?
>
>

I would gather up a bunch of blow dryers and electric heaters and add them
up until I got a resistive load about equal to the rated output of the
generator head being conscience of equaling distributing the load on both
legs of the output and see if it can produce the rated output. If you have
a Kill A Watt meter or something that to verify the loads that would be a
plus.

Check the oil level. Even if it was recently serviced that does not
necessarily mean the oil level is not low. If it is a slanted oil fill hole
fill it to where it is almost running out. You can temporarily disconnect
the low oil float switch to check for an intermittant problem. It is
usually a yellow wire.

Visually check for any wires (probably black) or connectors that might be
making contact with ground due to engine vibration.

Sometimes a bad On/Off switch can be intermittant. Most On/Off switches are
open while running and connected to ground to turn off the engine.
Disconnecting it temporarily (probably a black or brown wire) may help
locate an intermittant switch.

Remove the fuel line and check to see if it is flowing easily (use a
suitable container to catch the gas, of course). If not remove the fuel
filter (if it has one) at the tank shut-off valve and clean it. Honda
sometimes uses a filter screen inside the fuel line but probably not on the
GX engine.

Check the air filter.

Check the governor to make sure it is moving freely.

Check and regap the spark plug.

Sometimes a bad ingition module will start and run just fine and then
suddenly stop. Then it will start again.

If you do all this (what I call routine maintenance) and it stll has
problems remove the float bowl from the carburator and check to see if the
float is stuck. Sometimes there will be a little burr on the edges of the
float pivot that can be gently sanded off. There should be a screw near the
bottom of the float bowl for draining out the gas before taking if off.
Turn off the fuel supply first, of course.

Are you doing anything such as connecting this generator to an inverter such
as an OutBack or Xantrex SW?

Maybe the generator doesn't like your inverter AC. Does it work OK with
other comparable loads? None of my microwave ovens work well with any of my
generators. Neither do battery chargers.

Is this thing still under warranty?





Posted by Mark on July 6, 2008, 4:34 am
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Ulysses wrote:
> I would gather up a bunch of blow dryers and electric heaters and add them
> up until I got a resistive load about equal to the rated output of the
> generator head being conscience of equaling distributing the load on both
> legs of the output and see if it can produce the rated output. If you have
> a Kill A Watt meter or something that to verify the loads that would be a
> plus.

did what you suggest above.

noted my Kill a Watt has a max rated watts of 1850 (see reverse side) so it
started
blinking the wattage display when it hit 2950, generator ran just fine

instead of plugging individual items into the 2-15amp-120v and 2-20amp-120v
outlets, I
used a heavy duty cord with it's own trip breaker (it is also rated like the
Kill A
Watt at 1850w) and once power went over 3000 watts, this cord's breaker (not
generator) tripped.

again, even at that, the generator was running just fine.



Posted by Ulysses on July 6, 2008, 7:08 pm
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> Ulysses wrote:
> > I would gather up a bunch of blow dryers and electric heaters and add
them
> > up until I got a resistive load about equal to the rated output of the
> > generator head being conscience of equaling distributing the load on
both
> > legs of the output and see if it can produce the rated output. If you
have
> > a Kill A Watt meter or something that to verify the loads that would be
a
> > plus.
>
> did what you suggest above.
>
> noted my Kill a Watt has a max rated watts of 1850 (see reverse side) so
it started
> blinking the wattage display when it hit 2950, generator ran just fine
>
> instead of plugging individual items into the 2-15amp-120v and
2-20amp-120v outlets, I
> used a heavy duty cord with it's own trip breaker (it is also rated like
the Kill A
> Watt at 1850w) and once power went over 3000 watts, this cord's breaker
(not
> generator) tripped.
>
> again, even at that, the generator was running just fine.
>
>

Just so you realize that you have two seperate "legs" and each leg can
produce 3300 watts but neither can produce (much) more than that. It is
better to balance the loads on both legs.

Since you have a Kill A Watt I'd also check the output voltage and frequency
under a moderate load. I tend to adjust my 5000 watt generator to about 120
volts at about 1/2 load which gives me about 63 Hz. I find many appliances
run better at the slightly higher frequency mainly because the voltage is
higher (I think). Of course there may be some appliances that won't like
the frequency being that high and with no load it could run a bit too high
so you kinda have to check it a couple of times to make sure you aren't
going too far over. If your voltage is a bit low your AC might not like it.



Posted by Mark on July 7, 2008, 9:22 am
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Ulysses wrote:
> Just so you realize that you have two seperate "legs" and each leg can
> produce 3300 watts but neither can produce (much) more than that. It is
> better to balance the loads on both legs.

so connect two separate items to two separate 20amp outlets and try running
3000w on
both?

does the fact that I managed to run off one extension cord 2950w dispel my
concern
that the voltage regulator may have damage or does it mean nothing since I
produced it
from just one outlet connection?

the max output is rated at 8000w and running is rated at 6600w

> Since you have a Kill A Watt I'd also check the output voltage and frequency
> under a moderate load. I tend to adjust my 5000 watt generator to about 120
> volts at about 1/2 load which gives me about 63 Hz. I find many appliances

not sure how this is done, please do post some details, if possible specific to
the
honda gx390

> going too far over. If your voltage is a bit low your AC might not like it.

if you read the original details, you will find the ac is an inverter system,
converting AC to DC to AC so it does not care what's being input as it
conditions the
line internally to suit it's own needs - thus, it also has almost no jump in
locked
rotor amps but starts off with just 1.5amps and very slowly ramps it up from
there
over several minutes. it also uses max watts of about 700 but I have never seen
it go
above 350w


Posted by Vaughn Simon on July 7, 2008, 9:34 am
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> not sure how this is done, please do post some details, if possible specific
> to the honda gx390
>
I already explained to you, a Honda GX390 is a common industrial engine, not
a generator.
http://www.honda-engines.com/engines/gx390.htm

In other words: your off-brand generator just happens to have a pretty nice
Honda GX390 engine.

Vaughn




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