home bru hydro: new jets make 13 volts!!

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home bru hydro: new jets make 13 volts!! z 03-22-2008
Posted by Eric Sears on March 23, 2008, 6:05 am
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>Yup!
>
>Today I spent some time trying different nozzles just to see if I could
>wrangle out those last few RPMs needed to get past 12 volts ..
..........
>
>Put them in and just ran the hydro with a multi-meter and was getting
>around 7 volts with a single jet. Pretty sweet .. the most I ever got
>before was around 5.5. With both jets on and with some fiddling with the
>angles I hit 13!!
>
>So I turned connected them to the batteries and whadya know.. its
>charging. The battery bank is at 12.4 and when I hit the switch to
>complete the circuit the alternator comes under load and keeps on
>spinning!!!
>
>So thats that then.

Well I'm not sure it is! Its great that you have exceeded 12v, but as
I have said previously, you need to get to about 24 volts (not
connected to the battery) , in order to extract something like the max
power available from the water. At 13v, its likely you are not getting
more than 10%.
Exactly HOW much current is going into the battery? Simply measuring
the voltage is not sufficient. You need an ammeter in series with the
wire to the battery. I seriously doubt that you are doing any damage
to the batteries by overcharging!

As someone else said, either you need more speed from the jets (which
you might have done by improving the nozzles, or you may just have
applied more water which is overcoming the frictional losses in the
wheel and generator), or you need to gear up the generator with a belt
and pulley. Believe me (because I've done it hundreds of time and
understand the theory) - you MUST get the "runaway voltage" to about
TWICE the battery voltage with pelton or turgo wheels (its slightly
different for a turgo, but close enough not to matter). If its
charging with a significant current with you present setup, then you
are extracting very little of the available energy (that is in the
jet).

The "runaway voltage" is the voltage from the generator with no load
attached (ie the battery). When you then connect the battery, the
wheel to go down to about half of the runaway speed. That's how it
works when its working correctly.

Try connecting the tail lamp bulb as I suggested (directly to the
generator). If the whole things slows dramatically, then you really
don't have much power.
If you connect it and the voltage drops to say 9 or 10 volts - then
you have some worthwhile power.
If you connect it and the voltage hardly drops at all (ie it remains
close to 12v), then you probably have quite a "lot of power", but at
the wrong voltage. If this occurs, either you have "gear up" the
generator, rewind it as someone suggested (not easy), or find a
generator with the right characteristics.
It CAN be done with a transformer - but you really need to know what
you are doing. (You would have to circumvent the diodes). Yes, I know
its three-phase! I'm saying there are answers (because I do it, and
I've built systems that do it this way). You could even use a step-up
dc-dc converter - though I don't think much is readily available off
the shelf.

Eric Sears


Posted by Johnny B Good on March 23, 2008, 2:07 pm
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from phoneme@025379386.for.email.address (Eric Sears) contains these words:


> >Yup!
> >
> >Today I spent some time trying different nozzles just to see if I could
> >wrangle out those last few RPMs needed to get past 12 volts ..
> ...........
> >
> >Put them in and just ran the hydro with a multi-meter and was getting
> >around 7 volts with a single jet. Pretty sweet .. the most I ever got
> >before was around 5.5. With both jets on and with some fiddling with the
> >angles I hit 13!!
> >
> >So I turned connected them to the batteries and whadya know.. its
> >charging. The battery bank is at 12.4 and when I hit the switch to
> >complete the circuit the alternator comes under load and keeps on
> >spinning!!!
> >
> >So thats that then.

> Well I'm not sure it is! Its great that you have exceeded 12v, but as
> I have said previously, you need to get to about 24 volts (not
> connected to the battery) , in order to extract something like the max
> power available from the water. At 13v, its likely you are not getting
> more than 10%.
> Exactly HOW much current is going into the battery? Simply measuring
> the voltage is not sufficient. You need an ammeter in series with the
> wire to the battery. I seriously doubt that you are doing any damage
> to the batteries by overcharging!

> As someone else said, either you need more speed from the jets (which
> you might have done by improving the nozzles, or you may just have
> applied more water which is overcoming the frictional losses in the
> wheel and generator), or you need to gear up the generator with a belt
> and pulley. Believe me (because I've done it hundreds of time and
> understand the theory) - you MUST get the "runaway voltage" to about
> TWICE the battery voltage with pelton or turgo wheels (its slightly
> different for a turgo, but close enough not to matter). If its
> charging with a significant current with you present setup, then you
> are extracting very little of the available energy (that is in the
> jet).

Actually, the 'runaway voltage' on a PM generator (where the open
circuit voltage is directly proportional to speed) should be around 1.9
times (but a figure of two times will make allowance for the volt drop
under load :-).

The reason for the c1.9 times unloaded speed is on account of the way a
pelton wheel extracts power from the water jets. When unloaded the
buckets will have a linear speed equal to just slightly less than the
jet speed with the energy of the water exiting the turbine only slightly
reduced (ie a lot of wasted energy in the exiting water flow). the small
amount of energy extracted by the pelton wheel in the 'runaway'
condition being that required to overcome 'windage' and other friction
losses.

When the generator loading is optimised to the water jet energy, the
water flow exiting each bucket will have close to zero energy as it
drops out into the housing to be drained off to the lower level (it's
most important that the exhaust water does _not_ flood the turbine
housing). The water gives up its energy by having its flow reversed with
respect to each bucket the jet impinges upon. the maximum energy
extraction only occuring in this type of turbine when the jet speed is
twice that of the loaded linear speed of the buckets.

> The "runaway voltage" is the voltage from the generator with no load
> attached (ie the battery). When you then connect the battery, the
> wheel to go down to about half of the runaway speed. That's how it
> works when its working correctly.

This only applies to an unregulated PM generator (which I understand is
the case here).

> Try connecting the tail lamp bulb as I suggested (directly to the
> generator). If the whole things slows dramatically, then you really
> don't have much power.

Assuming you don't already have sufficient power to blow the lamp!

> If you connect it and the voltage drops to say 9 or 10 volts - then
> you have some worthwhile power.
> If you connect it and the voltage hardly drops at all (ie it remains
> close to 12v), then you probably have quite a "lot of power", but at
> the wrong voltage. If this occurs, either you have "gear up" the
> generator, rewind it as someone suggested (not easy), or find a
> generator with the right characteristics.

Best method of controlling power in a pelton wheel generator setup is
to automatically (via voltage or charging current feedback) adjust the
the water jets using needle control valves in each jet. This minimises
on hydro energy wastage. Any other method (except as a fast response
fine tuning augmentation) such as that suggested below will needlessly
use up your hydro energy resource at times of low demand.

> It CAN be done with a transformer - but you really need to know what
> you are doing. (You would have to circumvent the diodes). Yes, I know
> its three-phase! I'm saying there are answers (because I do it, and
> I've built systems that do it this way). You could even use a step-up
> dc-dc converter - though I don't think much is readily available off
> the shelf.

Power stations control their output by controlling the fuel input. In
this case, your 'fuel' is the energy contained in the water flow. Since
the desired speed of the generator is basically constant (the small
speed variation being needed to compensate for volt drop in the
effective ohmic resistance of said generator over varying loads), you
want to maintain the water jet speed but vary the effective diameter of
the jet (and, hence the mass of water per second that hits the runner).
The best way to do this is by using needle valve controlled jets in the
turbine housing. This method is the most efficient way to control the
hydro energy input to your turbine.

If you are using multiple jets in the turbine you can extend the range
of control by shutting off the feed to individual jets using low
turbulence valves (rotating ball valves), perhaps electing to fit needle
control to only one or two of the jets as a means of retaing fine
control whilst minimising the expense. In this case, the ball valves
will be either fully off or fully on (although they can be used as a
throttle, but only during transitions in order to allow time for the
needle valves to respond).

A properly designed pelton wheel generator system should allow you to
extract a good 80 to 90 percent of the hydro energy over the full range
of demand (this presupposes a properly designed and sized penstock feed
system to match the maximum demand).

HTH

--
Regards, John.

Please remove the "ohggcyht" before replying.
The address has been munged to reject Spam-bots.


Posted by Pete C. on March 23, 2008, 4:04 pm
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Johnny B Good wrote:
>
> from phoneme@025379386.for.email.address (Eric Sears) contains these words:
>
>
> > >Yup!
> > >
> > >Today I spent some time trying different nozzles just to see if I could
> > >wrangle out those last few RPMs needed to get past 12 volts ..
> > ...........
> > >
> > >Put them in and just ran the hydro with a multi-meter and was getting
> > >around 7 volts with a single jet. Pretty sweet .. the most I ever got
> > >before was around 5.5. With both jets on and with some fiddling with the
> > >angles I hit 13!!
> > >
> > >So I turned connected them to the batteries and whadya know.. its
> > >charging. The battery bank is at 12.4 and when I hit the switch to
> > >complete the circuit the alternator comes under load and keeps on
> > >spinning!!!
> > >
> > >So thats that then.
>
> > Well I'm not sure it is! Its great that you have exceeded 12v, but as
> > I have said previously, you need to get to about 24 volts (not
> > connected to the battery) , in order to extract something like the max
> > power available from the water. At 13v, its likely you are not getting
> > more than 10%.
> > Exactly HOW much current is going into the battery? Simply measuring
> > the voltage is not sufficient. You need an ammeter in series with the
> > wire to the battery. I seriously doubt that you are doing any damage
> > to the batteries by overcharging!
>
> > As someone else said, either you need more speed from the jets (which
> > you might have done by improving the nozzles, or you may just have
> > applied more water which is overcoming the frictional losses in the
> > wheel and generator), or you need to gear up the generator with a belt
> > and pulley. Believe me (because I've done it hundreds of time and
> > understand the theory) - you MUST get the "runaway voltage" to about
> > TWICE the battery voltage with pelton or turgo wheels (its slightly
> > different for a turgo, but close enough not to matter). If its
> > charging with a significant current with you present setup, then you
> > are extracting very little of the available energy (that is in the
> > jet).
>
> Actually, the 'runaway voltage' on a PM generator (where the open
> circuit voltage is directly proportional to speed) should be around 1.9
> times (but a figure of two times will make allowance for the volt drop
> under load :-).
>
> The reason for the c1.9 times unloaded speed is on account of the way a
> pelton wheel extracts power from the water jets. When unloaded the
> buckets will have a linear speed equal to just slightly less than the
> jet speed with the energy of the water exiting the turbine only slightly
> reduced (ie a lot of wasted energy in the exiting water flow). the small
> amount of energy extracted by the pelton wheel in the 'runaway'
> condition being that required to overcome 'windage' and other friction
> losses.
>
> When the generator loading is optimised to the water jet energy, the
> water flow exiting each bucket will have close to zero energy as it
> drops out into the housing to be drained off to the lower level (it's
> most important that the exhaust water does _not_ flood the turbine
> housing). The water gives up its energy by having its flow reversed with
> respect to each bucket the jet impinges upon. the maximum energy
> extraction only occuring in this type of turbine when the jet speed is
> twice that of the loaded linear speed of the buckets.
>
> > The "runaway voltage" is the voltage from the generator with no load
> > attached (ie the battery). When you then connect the battery, the
> > wheel to go down to about half of the runaway speed. That's how it
> > works when its working correctly.
>
> This only applies to an unregulated PM generator (which I understand is
> the case here).
>
> > Try connecting the tail lamp bulb as I suggested (directly to the
> > generator). If the whole things slows dramatically, then you really
> > don't have much power.
>
> Assuming you don't already have sufficient power to blow the lamp!
>
> > If you connect it and the voltage drops to say 9 or 10 volts - then
> > you have some worthwhile power.
> > If you connect it and the voltage hardly drops at all (ie it remains
> > close to 12v), then you probably have quite a "lot of power", but at
> > the wrong voltage. If this occurs, either you have "gear up" the
> > generator, rewind it as someone suggested (not easy), or find a
> > generator with the right characteristics.
>
> Best method of controlling power in a pelton wheel generator setup is
> to automatically (via voltage or charging current feedback) adjust the
> the water jets using needle control valves in each jet. This minimises
> on hydro energy wastage. Any other method (except as a fast response
> fine tuning augmentation) such as that suggested below will needlessly
> use up your hydro energy resource at times of low demand.
>
> > It CAN be done with a transformer - but you really need to know what
> > you are doing. (You would have to circumvent the diodes). Yes, I know
> > its three-phase! I'm saying there are answers (because I do it, and
> > I've built systems that do it this way). You could even use a step-up
> > dc-dc converter - though I don't think much is readily available off
> > the shelf.
>
> Power stations control their output by controlling the fuel input. In
> this case, your 'fuel' is the energy contained in the water flow. Since
> the desired speed of the generator is basically constant (the small
> speed variation being needed to compensate for volt drop in the
> effective ohmic resistance of said generator over varying loads), you
> want to maintain the water jet speed but vary the effective diameter of
> the jet (and, hence the mass of water per second that hits the runner).
> The best way to do this is by using needle valve controlled jets in the
> turbine housing. This method is the most efficient way to control the
> hydro energy input to your turbine.
>
> If you are using multiple jets in the turbine you can extend the range
> of control by shutting off the feed to individual jets using low
> turbulence valves (rotating ball valves), perhaps electing to fit needle
> control to only one or two of the jets as a means of retaing fine
> control whilst minimising the expense. In this case, the ball valves
> will be either fully off or fully on (although they can be used as a
> throttle, but only during transitions in order to allow time for the
> needle valves to respond).
>
> A properly designed pelton wheel generator system should allow you to
> extract a good 80 to 90 percent of the hydro energy over the full range
> of demand (this presupposes a properly designed and sized penstock feed
> system to match the maximum demand).
>
> HTH
>
> --
> Regards, John.
>
> Please remove the "ohggcyht" before replying.
> The address has been munged to reject Spam-bots.

On the part about regulating via the water input to avoid wasting the
resource, unless you have a low flow water source that you have to dam
up and allow to fill and then generate power until drained again, I fail
to see how you would be wasting the resource. If your water feed to the
turbine is less than or equal to the flow rate of the source then all
that water would be flowing over the dam anyway.

Posted by Johnny B Good on March 23, 2008, 6:27 pm
Please log in for more thread options


> Johnny B Good wrote:

====snip====

> >
> > Best method of controlling power in a pelton wheel generator setup is
> > to automatically (via voltage or charging current feedback) adjust the
> > the water jets using needle control valves in each jet. This minimises
> > on hydro energy wastage. Any other method (except as a fast response
> > fine tuning augmentation) such as that suggested below will needlessly
> > use up your hydro energy resource at times of low demand.

====another snip====

> On the part about regulating via the water input to avoid wasting the
> resource, unless you have a low flow water source that you have to dam
> up and allow to fill and then generate power until drained again, I fail
> to see how you would be wasting the resource. If your water feed to the
> turbine is less than or equal to the flow rate of the source then all
> that water would be flowing over the dam anyway.

That's quite true when the all year round supply of such an energy
source comfortably exceeds your maximum expectations. For micro hydro
power schemes such as this, this isn't usually the case. More
importantly, when you are tapping a small stream (either directly or via
a small holding pond - maybe an existing natural pond or small lake),
efficiently controlling the energy via the prime source rather than via
its re-incarnation as electrical energy, will help minimise
environmental impact during 'dry spells'.

If you're impounding hydro power from an existing upstream pond or
lake, regulating the hydro power flow will maximise availabilty during
dry spells when the net flow from the feeding stream(s) is less than
demand. Given a large enough lake, this will make for a far better
energy 'accumulator' than a suitably sized lead acid battery.

If the hydro option is simply an experimental add on to an existing
multi source power scheme (PV and wind turbine), then you can,
initially, forego the suggested refinement since this can always be
provided as part of an upgrade exercise once you have some actual data
on the hydro energy resource to suggest whether this would be a
worthwhile investment.

Of course, there is the even cheaper option of logging stream flows and
doing a one year's[1] hydro energy audit using quite simple logging
methods to determine the viability _before_ investing in the required
infra-structure (pen-stock pipework and turbine/generator kit). For a
small stream this could consist of a V notch weir and a float level
sensor driving a data logging program running on a cheap PC (or even
directly linked to a clockwork driven pen chart recorder).

If you happen to have access to a source of hydro energy that is known
to be reliable all year round and is well in excess of even your highest
requirements, you could then forego such data logging and simply lay in
the pipework and 'get on with it'.

[1] Even a 3 or 4 month audit over the 'wet months' might be all that is
required if this resource is only needed to augment existing PV and wind
turbine resources. At its most extreme of simplicity, you could simply
visit the proposed hydro impound site during wet and dry days to
ascertain the flow by simple visual inspection. In fact it's a good idea
to use the Mk1 eyeball method in any case, before investing in any
formal program of flow rate logging.

--
Regards, John.

Please remove the "ohggcyht" before replying.
The address has been munged to reject Spam-bots.


Posted by z on March 31, 2008, 3:19 pm
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phoneme@025379386.for.email.address (Eric Sears) wrote in

>
>>Yup!
>>
>>Today I spent some time trying different nozzles just to see if I
>>could wrangle out those last few RPMs needed to get past 12 volts ..
> ..........
>>
>>Put them in and just ran the hydro with a multi-meter and was getting
>>around 7 volts with a single jet. Pretty sweet .. the most I ever got
>>before was around 5.5. With both jets on and with some fiddling with
>>the angles I hit 13!!
>>
>>So I turned connected them to the batteries and whadya know.. its
>>charging. The battery bank is at 12.4 and when I hit the switch to
>>complete the circuit the alternator comes under load and keeps on
>>spinning!!!
>>
>>So thats that then.
>
> Well I'm not sure it is! Its great that you have exceeded 12v, but as
> I have said previously, you need to get to about 24 volts (not
> connected to the battery) , in order to extract something like the max
> power available from the water. At 13v, its likely you are not getting
> more than 10%.
> Exactly HOW much current is going into the battery? Simply measuring
> the voltage is not sufficient. You need an ammeter in series with the
> wire to the battery. I seriously doubt that you are doing any damage
> to the batteries by overcharging!
>
> As someone else said, either you need more speed from the jets (which
> you might have done by improving the nozzles, or you may just have
> applied more water which is overcoming the frictional losses in the
> wheel and generator), or you need to gear up the generator with a belt
> and pulley. Believe me (because I've done it hundreds of time and
> understand the theory) - you MUST get the "runaway voltage" to about
> TWICE the battery voltage with pelton or turgo wheels (its slightly
> different for a turgo, but close enough not to matter). If its
> charging with a significant current with you present setup, then you
> are extracting very little of the available energy (that is in the
> jet).
>
> The "runaway voltage" is the voltage from the generator with no load
> attached (ie the battery). When you then connect the battery, the
> wheel to go down to about half of the runaway speed. That's how it
> works when its working correctly.
>
> Try connecting the tail lamp bulb as I suggested (directly to the
> generator). If the whole things slows dramatically, then you really
> don't have much power.
> If you connect it and the voltage drops to say 9 or 10 volts - then
> you have some worthwhile power.
> If you connect it and the voltage hardly drops at all (ie it remains
> close to 12v), then you probably have quite a "lot of power", but at
> the wrong voltage. If this occurs, either you have "gear up" the
> generator, rewind it as someone suggested (not easy), or find a
> generator with the right characteristics.
> It CAN be done with a transformer - but you really need to know what
> you are doing. (You would have to circumvent the diodes). Yes, I know
> its three-phase! I'm saying there are answers (because I do it, and
> I've built systems that do it this way). You could even use a step-up
> dc-dc converter - though I don't think much is readily available off
> the shelf.
>
> Eric Sears
>

Yeah I've come to finally understand that .. or at least believe it.
Hopefully the new stater should get me around 30 volts and then i'll be
able to bring it under full load and measure better.

I wasn't able to blow up a 12 volt bulb, nor really register much on my
ammeter -- i doubt i was making enough and the ammeter I have has a
pretty large scale.

we'll see.

thanks for all the advice ..

you know the saying -- the man points at the moon and the dog looks at
his finger :)

i'll get it figured out eventually :)

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