homebru hydro update

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homebru hydro update z 02-11-2008
Posted by z on February 11, 2008, 1:18 am
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Got the thing running this weekend

http://www.jeffersonfreestate.org/hh/

Its making much MUCH higher RPM and between 11.5 - 12.5 volts. Still fine
tuning the jet angles, but that part is working great. Man just a little
change in angle can make a big difference in power.

Still have shaft coupler issues. Need to drill and tap the new coupler so
I can bolt them together. The coupler wasn't designed to run virtical so I
kinda suspected it'd be a problem. Its the only one I could find that
would transition from the GM alternator to 1/2 inch without having a
special coupler built.

Getting rid of the right angles and increasing the pipe diameter feeding
the jets made a huge difference. That and I bored out the jets to 1/8th
inch and polished them on the inside. I think its as good as I can get for
now.

As for the shaft I have a plan to weld up a small support around it and add
a bearing if the cupler drill and tap doesn't fix the problem.

thats all!

-z

Posted by on February 11, 2008, 3:54 am
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> Got the thing running this weekend
>
> http://www.jeffersonfreestate.org/hh/
>
> Its making much MUCH higher RPM and between 11.5 - 12.5 volts. Still fine
> tuning the jet angles, but that part is working great. Man just a little
> change in angle can make a big difference in power.
>
> Still have shaft coupler issues. Need to drill and tap the new coupler so
> I can bolt them together. The coupler wasn't designed to run virtical so I
> kinda suspected it'd be a problem. Its the only one I could find that
> would transition from the GM alternator to 1/2 inch without having a
> special coupler built.
>
> Getting rid of the right angles and increasing the pipe diameter feeding
> the jets made a huge difference. That and I bored out the jets to 1/8th
> inch and polished them on the inside. I think its as good as I can get for
> now.
>
> As for the shaft I have a plan to weld up a small support around it and add
> a bearing if the cupler drill and tap doesn't fix the problem.
>
> thats all!
>
> -z

Interesting. Scrap the coupling. shorten the impeller shaft. Use a
boss on the impeller shaft drilled and tapped to replace the nut on
the alt shaft, screw directly to alt. Flat disc on shaft near boss to
act as water slinger to keep alt dry.

The closer the impeller to the alt the less need for further shaft
support. From the looks of it you could probably get the impeller
within two inches of the alt.

Posted by on February 11, 2008, 7:49 pm
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>17mm 1.25 (20 tpi)

Best to just have someone turn exactly what you need. If you must do
it by hand, then 11/16-20 might do with careful fitting.
http://www.mcmaster.com/, pg. 2481, 2497.

Wayne

Posted by Pete C. on February 11, 2008, 8:09 pm
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wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net wrote:
>
>
> >17mm 1.25 (20 tpi)
>
> Best to just have someone turn exactly what you need. If you must do
> it by hand, then 11/16-20 might do with careful fitting.
> http://www.mcmaster.com/, pg. 2481, 2497.
>
> Wayne

You (OP) might find someone who would fab a coupling for little cost
over on rec.crafts.metalworking. I'd do it, but I'm not setup for metric
threading currently.

Posted by z on February 12, 2008, 3:17 pm
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> wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net wrote:
>>
>>
>> >17mm 1.25 (20 tpi)
>>
>> Best to just have someone turn exactly what you need. If you must do
>> it by hand, then 11/16-20 might do with careful fitting.
>> http://www.mcmaster.com/, pg. 2481, 2497.
>>
>> Wayne
>
> You (OP) might find someone who would fab a coupling for little cost
> over on rec.crafts.metalworking. I'd do it, but I'm not setup for
metric
> threading currently.

thanks for all the advice.

Today i'm going to see if I can drill and tap the one I have to make it
work. If it fails i'll check out the other options for sure.

All the guys around here don't have metric threading capabilities either,
but i'm sure I could find one somewhere.

cheers

-z

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