homebru hydro update

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Subject Author Date
homebru hydro update z 02-11-2008
Posted by Balanced View on February 12, 2008, 4:09 pm
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z wrote:
>
>
>> wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> 17mm 1.25 (20 tpi)
>>>>
>>> Best to just have someone turn exactly what you need. If you must do
>>> it by hand, then 11/16-20 might do with careful fitting.
>>> http://www.mcmaster.com/, pg. 2481, 2497.
>>>
>>> Wayne
>>>
>> You (OP) might find someone who would fab a coupling for little cost
>> over on rec.crafts.metalworking. I'd do it, but I'm not setup for
>>
> metric
>
>> threading currently.
>>
>
> thanks for all the advice.
>
> Today i'm going to see if I can drill and tap the one I have to make it
> work. If it fails i'll check out the other options for sure.
>
> All the guys around here don't have metric threading capabilities either,
> but i'm sure I could find one somewhere.
>
> cheers
>
> -z
>
Try a motorcycle shop, nearly all of their fittings are metric

Posted by on February 12, 2008, 10:13 am
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wrote:


>Someone with a lathe capable of metric threading

20tpi will work well.

>could whip out an adapter
>for you real easily. Or an adapter could be built up with one or more nuts
>for the threaded section. The latter would be more difficult to make run
>true.

The adapter should be a tight fit on the plain (true) part of the
shaft. Easiest way to make a threaded version might be to turn a
bushing with a threaded end, weld on a stub, then turn the stub true.
But I think the threads could be eliminated in favor of press fit,
loctite, or set screws.

Wayne

Posted by z on February 13, 2008, 6:30 pm
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wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net wrote in

> wrote:
>
>
>>Someone with a lathe capable of metric threading
>
> 20tpi will work well.
>
>>could whip out an adapter
>>for you real easily. Or an adapter could be built up with one or more
>>nuts for the threaded section. The latter would be more difficult to
>>make run true.
>
> The adapter should be a tight fit on the plain (true) part of the
> shaft. Easiest way to make a threaded version might be to turn a
> bushing with a threaded end, weld on a stub, then turn the stub true.
> But I think the threads could be eliminated in favor of press fit,
> loctite, or set screws.
>
> Wayne

Thanks a lot for the advice (should have asked here before starting this
dang thing) drilling and tapping the coupler did the trick. Stable at
1000 RPM!!!

update: http://www.jeffersonfreestate.org/hh/

cheers

-zachary

Posted by Bob F on February 13, 2008, 7:33 pm
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> wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net wrote in
>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Someone with a lathe capable of metric threading
>>
>> 20tpi will work well.
>>
>>>could whip out an adapter
>>>for you real easily. Or an adapter could be built up with one or more
>>>nuts for the threaded section. The latter would be more difficult to
>>>make run true.
>>
>> The adapter should be a tight fit on the plain (true) part of the
>> shaft. Easiest way to make a threaded version might be to turn a
>> bushing with a threaded end, weld on a stub, then turn the stub true.
>> But I think the threads could be eliminated in favor of press fit,
>> loctite, or set screws.
>>
>> Wayne
>
> Thanks a lot for the advice (should have asked here before starting this
> dang thing) drilling and tapping the coupler did the trick. Stable at
> 1000 RPM!!!
>
> update: http://www.jeffersonfreestate.org/hh/

Looking at the pictures, it looks like you are using a corrugated copper
connecting line to run the water in to the jets. You would probably be better
off to use soft copper tubing for this to avoid the turbulance the corrugations
will produce.

Any idea how much current you are getting?

Bob



Posted by z on February 13, 2008, 7:51 pm
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>
>> wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net wrote in
>>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Someone with a lathe capable of metric threading
>>>
>>> 20tpi will work well.
>>>
>>>>could whip out an adapter
>>>>for you real easily. Or an adapter could be built up with one or
>>>>more nuts for the threaded section. The latter would be more
>>>>difficult to make run true.
>>>
>>> The adapter should be a tight fit on the plain (true) part of the
>>> shaft. Easiest way to make a threaded version might be to turn a
>>> bushing with a threaded end, weld on a stub, then turn the stub
>>> true. But I think the threads could be eliminated in favor of press
>>> fit, loctite, or set screws.
>>>
>>> Wayne
>>
>> Thanks a lot for the advice (should have asked here before starting
>> this dang thing) drilling and tapping the coupler did the trick.
>> Stable at 1000 RPM!!!
>>
>> update: http://www.jeffersonfreestate.org/hh/
>
> Looking at the pictures, it looks like you are using a corrugated
> copper connecting line to run the water in to the jets. You would
> probably be better off to use soft copper tubing for this to avoid the
> turbulance the corrugations will produce.

Yeah I might swap that out, but those were handy and had the fittings. I
could probably just move to that clear poly but I don't have the fittings
for doing that on hand.

I need to do some other stuff first.

>
> Any idea how much current you are getting?
>

Right around 12 volts .. I think my multi-meter is messed up because It
won't read amps at the moment, its always zero. But I hooked a dead car
battery up and it from round 4 volts to 7.5 after 10 mins of running or
so. I don't want to run it longer until I pipe in a place for the excess
water to go .. back down the hill into the stream. Its been fine for
testing but when you run it for a while that water needs a place to go!

Once again that was a detail I didn't want to bother with till I thought
the generator part would actually work.

> Bob

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