homebru hydro update

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Subject Author Date
homebru hydro update z 02-11-2008
Posted by Bob F on February 13, 2008, 8:20 pm
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>
>>
>>> wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net wrote in
>>>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Someone with a lathe capable of metric threading
>>>>
>>>> 20tpi will work well.
>>>>
>>>>>could whip out an adapter
>>>>>for you real easily. Or an adapter could be built up with one or
>>>>>more nuts for the threaded section. The latter would be more
>>>>>difficult to make run true.
>>>>
>>>> The adapter should be a tight fit on the plain (true) part of the
>>>> shaft. Easiest way to make a threaded version might be to turn a
>>>> bushing with a threaded end, weld on a stub, then turn the stub
>>>> true. But I think the threads could be eliminated in favor of press
>>>> fit, loctite, or set screws.
>>>>
>>>> Wayne
>>>
>>> Thanks a lot for the advice (should have asked here before starting
>>> this dang thing) drilling and tapping the coupler did the trick.
>>> Stable at 1000 RPM!!!
>>>
>>> update: http://www.jeffersonfreestate.org/hh/
>>
>> Looking at the pictures, it looks like you are using a corrugated
>> copper connecting line to run the water in to the jets. You would
>> probably be better off to use soft copper tubing for this to avoid the
>> turbulance the corrugations will produce.
>
> Yeah I might swap that out, but those were handy and had the fittings. I
> could probably just move to that clear poly but I don't have the fittings
> for doing that on hand.
>
> I need to do some other stuff first.
>
>>
>> Any idea how much current you are getting?
>>
>
> Right around 12 volts .. I think my multi-meter is messed up because It
> won't read amps at the moment, its always zero. But I hooked a dead car
> battery up and it from round 4 volts to 7.5 after 10 mins of running or
> so. I don't want to run it longer until I pipe in a place for the excess
> water to go .. back down the hill into the stream. Its been fine for
> testing but when you run it for a while that water needs a place to go!
>
> Once again that was a detail I didn't want to bother with till I thought
> the generator part would actually work.

If the meter won't read amps, it is probably because a fuse is blown. Unless
your meter has an unusually high amp scale, it will probably quickly blow the
fuse with this kind of a generator.

What was the RPM when the dead battery was chargeing? Did it slow a lot?

Bob F



Posted by z on February 13, 2008, 8:55 pm
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>
>>
>>>
>>>> wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net wrote in
>>>>
>>>>> On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 20:46:59 -0600, "Don Young"
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Someone with a lathe capable of metric threading
>>>>>
>>>>> 20tpi will work well.
>>>>>
>>>>>>could whip out an adapter
>>>>>>for you real easily. Or an adapter could be built up with one or
>>>>>>more nuts for the threaded section. The latter would be more
>>>>>>difficult to make run true.
>>>>>
>>>>> The adapter should be a tight fit on the plain (true) part of the
>>>>> shaft. Easiest way to make a threaded version might be to turn a
>>>>> bushing with a threaded end, weld on a stub, then turn the stub
>>>>> true. But I think the threads could be eliminated in favor of
>>>>> press fit, loctite, or set screws.
>>>>>
>>>>> Wayne
>>>>
>>>> Thanks a lot for the advice (should have asked here before starting
>>>> this dang thing) drilling and tapping the coupler did the trick.
>>>> Stable at 1000 RPM!!!
>>>>
>>>> update: http://www.jeffersonfreestate.org/hh/
>>>
>>> Looking at the pictures, it looks like you are using a corrugated
>>> copper connecting line to run the water in to the jets. You would
>>> probably be better off to use soft copper tubing for this to avoid
>>> the turbulance the corrugations will produce.
>>
>> Yeah I might swap that out, but those were handy and had the
>> fittings. I could probably just move to that clear poly but I don't
>> have the fittings for doing that on hand.
>>
>> I need to do some other stuff first.
>>
>>>
>>> Any idea how much current you are getting?
>>>
>>
>> Right around 12 volts .. I think my multi-meter is messed up because
>> It won't read amps at the moment, its always zero. But I hooked a
>> dead car battery up and it from round 4 volts to 7.5 after 10 mins of
>> running or so. I don't want to run it longer until I pipe in a place
>> for the excess water to go .. back down the hill into the stream.
>> Its been fine for testing but when you run it for a while that water
>> needs a place to go!
>>
>> Once again that was a detail I didn't want to bother with till I
>> thought the generator part would actually work.
>
> If the meter won't read amps, it is probably because a fuse is blown.
> Unless your meter has an unusually high amp scale, it will probably
> quickly blow the fuse with this kind of a generator.
>

Yup. That fuse is blown for sure. This was one of those cheapo multi-
meters I got from radio-shack years ago. Suppose I should invest in a
better one.

> What was the RPM when the dead battery was chargeing? Did it slow a
> lot?

Maybe some. It sounded differently though .. ran a lot smoother.


I have to go to town tomorrow so maybe i'll try to find a beefier multi-
meter



>
> Bob F
>
>
>


Posted by z on February 13, 2008, 9:14 pm
Please log in for more thread options

>
>>
>>>
>>>> wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net wrote in
>>>>
>>>>> On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 20:46:59 -0600, "Don Young"
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Someone with a lathe capable of metric threading
>>>>>
>>>>> 20tpi will work well.
>>>>>
>>>>>>could whip out an adapter
>>>>>>for you real easily. Or an adapter could be built up with one or
>>>>>>more nuts for the threaded section. The latter would be more
>>>>>>difficult to make run true.
>>>>>
>>>>> The adapter should be a tight fit on the plain (true) part of the
>>>>> shaft. Easiest way to make a threaded version might be to turn a
>>>>> bushing with a threaded end, weld on a stub, then turn the stub
>>>>> true. But I think the threads could be eliminated in favor of
>>>>> press fit, loctite, or set screws.
>>>>>
>>>>> Wayne
>>>>
>>>> Thanks a lot for the advice (should have asked here before starting
>>>> this dang thing) drilling and tapping the coupler did the trick.
>>>> Stable at 1000 RPM!!!
>>>>
>>>> update: http://www.jeffersonfreestate.org/hh/
>>>
>>> Looking at the pictures, it looks like you are using a corrugated
>>> copper connecting line to run the water in to the jets. You would
>>> probably be better off to use soft copper tubing for this to avoid
>>> the turbulance the corrugations will produce.
>>
>> Yeah I might swap that out, but those were handy and had the
>> fittings. I could probably just move to that clear poly but I don't
>> have the fittings for doing that on hand.
>>
>> I need to do some other stuff first.
>>
>>>
>>> Any idea how much current you are getting?
>>>
>>
>> Right around 12 volts .. I think my multi-meter is messed up because
>> It won't read amps at the moment, its always zero. But I hooked a
>> dead car battery up and it from round 4 volts to 7.5 after 10 mins of
>> running or so. I don't want to run it longer until I pipe in a place
>> for the excess water to go .. back down the hill into the stream.
>> Its been fine for testing but when you run it for a while that water
>> needs a place to go!
>>
>> Once again that was a detail I didn't want to bother with till I
>> thought the generator part would actually work.
>
> If the meter won't read amps, it is probably because a fuse is blown.
> Unless your meter has an unusually high amp scale, it will probably
> quickly blow the fuse with this kind of a generator.
>
> What was the RPM when the dead battery was chargeing? Did it slow a
> lot?
>
> Bob F
>
>
>

Man I'm pretty clueless about this stuff, but looking at the power curve
plotted for this alternator:
http://www.windbluepower.com/Wind_Blue_Motor_Hydro_Permanent_Magnet_Alter
nator_p/dc-500.htm

at roughly 12 volts I should be making 80 or so amps??

They say '
# Reaches 12 Volts output at 1200 RPMs and the voltage keeps going up
from there. (see chart below).
# Produces 120 Amps into a 12 Volt battery at 2000 RPMs'

so if that is true i'm making way more amps than my little crappy multi-
meter could handle. No wonder it blew up.

I have the cheapest xantrex controller which is rated only to 35 amps so
thats the max it can take.

But I might be out to lunch too. Wouldn't surprise me.

I might spring for the LCD monitor to go with the controller -- that is
supposed to give you a lot more information than the blinking LED

'M/R-100 - optional LCD - backlit, alphanumeric display showing battery
voltage, DC amperage, cumulative amp hours, and amp hours since last
reset - remote includes 50' (15 m) or 100' (30.5 m) cable'

I was going to get one of those to have in the house to keep an eye on
things eventually

So i dono how many amps.. could be a lot, could be zip!

-z

Posted by Vaughn Simon on February 13, 2008, 9:32 pm
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> So i dono how many amps.. could be a lot, could be zip!

Why don't you just get an automotive ammeter and leave it in the circuit? I
have something like that on my solar panel. Low tech, cheap, and informative.
I mounted mine in a clear-front waterproof box. Like the rest of my solar
setup, it has been quietly doing its job for several years now.

Vaughn
>
> -z



Posted by z on February 13, 2008, 10:36 pm
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>
>> So i dono how many amps.. could be a lot, could be zip!
>
> Why don't you just get an automotive ammeter and leave it in the
> circuit? I
> have something like that on my solar panel. Low tech, cheap, and
> informative. I mounted mine in a clear-front waterproof box. Like the
> rest of my solar setup, it has been quietly doing its job for several
> years now.
>

Dude.. thats so obvious!

Probably why I didn't think of it :)

Thanks .. i'll do that.


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