homebru hydro update: version II testing

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homebru hydro update: version II testing z 01-10-2008
Posted by Bob F on January 10, 2008, 7:21 pm
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Vaughn Simon wrote:
>
>
> >3) Little splashy -- I'm getting a little more water up into the
> alternator than I'd like.
>
> If you feel that you have plenty of torque but not enough RPMs, how about
> gearing it up with a bicycle chain and a couple of sprockets? That way you
> could remove the alternator from the barrel to a drier spot, and get rid of
that
> coupling all at the same time. Of course, you would need some kind of a
> bearing for the turbine.
>
> Vaughn

Since you are playing with it anyway....how about running it in
the horizontal...with horizontal buckets and vertical shaft....
the shaft could have bearings at the top and bottom of your
barrel...and if the shaft was strong enough would not bend...

thank you for listening to my thoughts...have fun....sno

Posted by Bob F on January 11, 2008, 1:49 pm
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> z wrote:
> > I finally got my shed together and began really messing around with
> > the pelton wheel turbine gizmo i've been working on.

> > 2) Plenty of water to use: its been a hell of a winter!

> Yes, La Nina. On the Oregon coast you sure can tell the difference between
> it and El Nino!

> > Not so success:
> > 1) Not enough RPM.

> I would carefully examine every place up to the nozzles where you are
> introducing turbulent flow. Every junction, every 90 degree bend, every
> change of inside diameter, every valve. They all sap the strength of the
> flow. You have numerous examples in the jpg referenced. Think laminar
> flow.

> Measure the flow in gallons per minute at the nozzle. Then compare that to
> the flow rate as far back as possible toward the source. If you piping is
> efficient, there should be little difference.

Actually, unless you've got a leak somewhere, there should be _NO_
difference! :-)

The larger the bore of the feed pipe between the source and the
nozzle(s), the less the loss of energy in the feed pipe. Also, for best
efficiency of the delivery system, you need to avoid any abrupt changes
in bore diameter and changes of direction (i.e. gentle bends rather than
right angled elbow joints).

I don't have any practical experience whatsoever, but it's just basic
'fluidics' theory which has a lot in common with Ohm's Law when it comes
to the business of keeping water energy delivery losses down to an
acceptable minimum.

--
Regards, John.

Please remove the "ohggcyht" before replying.
The address has been munged to reject Spam-bots.


Posted by z on January 11, 2008, 4:45 pm
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>> So i'm off to town today to get some more plumbing supplies -- man
>> i'm a little tired of gluing that plastic pipe together. Every time
>> you want to change something you gotta cut and glue and wait. Maybe
>> i'll switch over to black plastic pipe.
>
> How big are your nozzles? The size and length of the tubing feeding
> them may be significantly reducing the pressure available at the
> nozzle. You would probably get more speed and torque at speed if you
> keep the feed much bigger right up to the reducing nozzle. Then you
> could also increase the nozzle diameter for even more increase, water
> supply willing. If you have enough water, even more nozzles could
> help.

The nozzles are 1/4th inch. I can see the potential value of using
larger pipe and reducing down to the nozzle rather than reducing and then
splitting into multiple 3/4th inch pipes.

I think I'll redesign the plumbing to do that better .. and avoid the
hard corners.

Today I might hog out a nozzle and see if it makes that much difference.
These are simple brass and only cost a few bucks each so its no big deal
to modify them.


>
> The wobble may be costing you speed/power also. If you don't have a
> bearing at the bottom of the shaft, that would be very helpful in
> stabilizing it and reducing wear on the alternator bearings.

Yeah. It sure is slick the way it is now, i can pull out the whole unit
in one part. Adding a bearing would force me to attach the unit to the
barrel.. which I might have to do in the end, but if I can shorten the
shaft and get it centered perfectly I might get away without doing it.



>
> Soft copper tubing could also be used for a stiffer nozzle mount. Or,
> use 2 male/female threaded "street elbows" threaded into each other to
> allow adjustment in multiple axis.
> A square of say, 2" PVC around the wheel, with threaded "T"s (1/2" or
> 3/4" or 1" thread)in the center of each side, with the aformentioned
> street L's pointing the nozzles might work well.

Yeah. I think I can see what you are suggesting here.

>
> I sure wish I could be playing with such a project at my home.

Its been fun for sure. Wet and cold but fun!

Thanks for the help !


Posted by Charles on January 10, 2008, 9:11 pm
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>Hello
> I am looking for an easy and legal way to know if the power has been
>restored to my service panel after we have a power outage , we usually have
>several brown outs etc. before the power is lost completely , during the
>morning hours we can see the neighbors and street lights , after the sun
>comes up , the only way I can know if we have line power is to turn on the
>Main Breaker and see , in this area it's bad news to leave main on and a lot
>of work to turn off all the 20 amp. breakers every time we loose power , any
>idea would be appreciated .
>Thanks
>Phil
>
Mabee not ONE HUINDRED PERCENT legal, but I'd stap a neon (gas
discharge) lamp across the non-switched side of the main breaker.
It won't burn a dollars worth of power in your lifetime and will
give a definitive answer as to whether the power is on or off.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


Posted by Johnny B Good on January 10, 2008, 11:52 pm
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> z wrote:
> > I finally got my shed together and began really messing around with
> > the pelton wheel turbine gizmo i've been working on.

> > 2) Plenty of water to use: its been a hell of a winter!

> Yes, La Nina. On the Oregon coast you sure can tell the difference between
> it and El Nino!

> > Not so success:
> > 1) Not enough RPM.

> I would carefully examine every place up to the nozzles where you are
> introducing turbulent flow. Every junction, every 90 degree bend, every
> change of inside diameter, every valve. They all sap the strength of the
> flow. You have numerous examples in the jpg referenced. Think laminar
> flow.

> Measure the flow in gallons per minute at the nozzle. Then compare that to
> the flow rate as far back as possible toward the source. If you piping is
> efficient, there should be little difference.

Actually, unless you've got a leak somewhere, there should be _NO_
difference! :-)

The larger the bore of the feed pipe between the source and the
nozzle(s), the less the loss of energy in the feed pipe. Also, for best
efficiency of the delivery system, you need to avoid any abrupt changes
in bore diameter and changes of direction (i.e. gentle bends rather than
right angled elbow joints).

I don't have any practical experience whatsoever, but it's just basic
'fluidics' theory which has a lot in common with Ohm's Law when it comes
to the business of keeping water energy delivery losses down to an
acceptable minimum.

--
Regards, John.

Please remove the "ohggcyht" before replying.
The address has been munged to reject Spam-bots.


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