It starts as 2 inch and necks down to 1-1/2 .. then splits into 1 inchers
and then to 3/4ths and then to 1/8th inch nozzels.

I have plans to change to 1 inch all the way to the nozzels (skipping the
3/4th inch step down) but haven't got all the parts I need yet.

Posted by z on May 21, 2008, 3:55 am

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>>> My brother scored a used xantrex prosine 1000 and I just plumbed it

>>> into the hydro system.. man its nice. Clean pure sine waves and its

>>> (so far) waaay more efficient than the last crapola inverter I had.

>>>

>>> Now i'm looking for a remote panel so I can watch it from in the

>>> house -- the remote panels seem to only have a 25 foot cable..

>>> anyone had success making a longer cable? Like 100 feet? I'd guess

>>> its some kind of simple cross over but guessing isn't the same as

>>> knowing har har har

>>>

>>> -z

>> I went back and read most of your old posts but didn't find what I

>> was looking for. What size pipe are you using to run your hydro?

> It starts as 2 inch and necks down to 1-1/2 .. then splits into 1

> inchers and then to 3/4ths and then to 1/8th inch nozzels.

> I have plans to change to 1 inch all the way to the nozzels (skipping

> the 3/4th inch step down) but haven't got all the parts I need yet.

another thing I need to do is make an open valve before it hits the
hydro.. i ran the pond dry during the last heat wave .. didn't have an
easy way to know if the intake to the pond was still running.

so I lost siphon and man.. 2 inch and 1-1/2 inch pipe with air pockets
can make a hell of a blast .. was worried that my whole system was going
to shake apart. Need a way to bleed out the air when I need a restart
after drawing down the pond.. or some kind of super smart valve that will
shut off when it runs itself out of water.

Its quite the hike to see the state of things up the hill -- can't be
going up there every few hours to make sure everything is working right

-zachary

Posted by Anthony Matonak on May 21, 2008, 4:15 am

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z wrote:
...

> another thing I need to do is make an open valve before it hits the

> hydro.. i ran the pond dry during the last heat wave .. didn't have an

> easy way to know if the intake to the pond was still running.

Some kind of float switch would seem to me as the way to find out
if there is water left above the intake. If the wire run is too
much then perhaps a radio device could do the job. I've heard of
remote indicators for mailboxes so I imagine a similar thing could
be used to indicate water or no water or the water level.

> so I lost siphon and man.. 2 inch and 1-1/2 inch pipe with air pockets

> can make a hell of a blast .. was worried that my whole system was going

> to shake apart. Need a way to bleed out the air when I need a restart

> after drawing down the pond.. or some kind of super smart valve that will

> shut off when it runs itself out of water.

Aren't air bleeder valves fairly common in plumbing? Then again, perhaps
I'm thinking of something else. I'm certainly no plumber by trade.

> Its quite the hike to see the state of things up the hill -- can't be

> going up there every few hours to make sure everything is working right

Maybe technology could work here as well. Video cameras have gotten
fairly inexpensive. I'm sure one could be rigged up to view the more
important parts.

Anthony

Posted by Bob F on May 21, 2008, 9:50 am

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>z wrote:

> ...

>> another thing I need to do is make an open valve before it hits the hydro.. i

>> ran the pond dry during the last heat wave .. didn't have an easy way to know

>> if the intake to the pond was still running.

> Some kind of float switch would seem to me as the way to find out

> if there is water left above the intake. If the wire run is too

> much then perhaps a radio device could do the job. I've heard of

> remote indicators for mailboxes so I imagine a similar thing could

> be used to indicate water or no water or the water level.

>> so I lost siphon and man.. 2 inch and 1-1/2 inch pipe with air pockets can

>> make a hell of a blast .. was worried that my whole system was going to shake

>> apart. Need a way to bleed out the air when I need a restart after drawing

>> down the pond.. or some kind of super smart valve that will shut off when it

>> runs itself out of water.

> Aren't air bleeder valves fairly common in plumbing? Then again, perhaps

> I'm thinking of something else. I'm certainly no plumber by trade.

Yes. Air bleeders are used for heating systems, etc.

Posted by Bob F on May 21, 2008, 9:57 am

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>>>

>>>> My brother scored a used xantrex prosine 1000 and I just plumbed it

>>>> into the hydro system.. man its nice. Clean pure sine waves and its

>>>> (so far) waaay more efficient than the last crapola inverter I had.

>>>>

>>>> Now i'm looking for a remote panel so I can watch it from in the

>>>> house -- the remote panels seem to only have a 25 foot cable..

>>>> anyone had success making a longer cable? Like 100 feet? I'd guess

>>>> its some kind of simple cross over but guessing isn't the same as

>>>> knowing har har har

>>>>

>>>> -z

>>>

>>> I went back and read most of your old posts but didn't find what I

>>> was looking for. What size pipe are you using to run your hydro?

>>>

>> It starts as 2 inch and necks down to 1-1/2 .. then splits into 1

>> inchers and then to 3/4ths and then to 1/8th inch nozzels.

>> I have plans to change to 1 inch all the way to the nozzels (skipping

>> the 3/4th inch step down) but haven't got all the parts I need yet.

> another thing I need to do is make an open valve before it hits the

> hydro.. i ran the pond dry during the last heat wave .. didn't have an

> easy way to know if the intake to the pond was still running.

> so I lost siphon and man.. 2 inch and 1-1/2 inch pipe with air pockets

> can make a hell of a blast .. was worried that my whole system was going

> to shake apart. Need a way to bleed out the air when I need a restart

> after drawing down the pond.. or some kind of super smart valve that will

> shut off when it runs itself out of water.

Take a look at how toilet flush valves work, as a possibility for a pond level
shutoff. Or, get a pump float switch for the pond level detection, and perhaps
use sprinkler valves at the bottom end, although they might make troublesome
turbulence.

Get an air bleed valve (used for hot water radiator systems in houses) and put
it in a high spot of the pipe nearer to the generator.

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