12v in outhouse

 Hi

I am planning on installing 12V in my outhouse, so that I can get some
lighting there.

There used be 240V there many years ago. The roof had since started
leaking, I put on new roofing and fixed the leaking in 2001 (Was
finished on 9/11 before flying to London, but thats another story.)
The mains lines are dissconnected, and some of the fixtures have been
wet at some time.

Since I dubt that the wiring etc. Is safe to use, and the price of
reinstalling electricity would be high, I want to simply use a battery
and put up some new low voltage wires.

I want to use a 120 Ah battery that is intended for camping use.
They use "calium tech" and are called SMF-batteries. They are suposed
to keep their charge for a longer time than a conventional battery.
I assume that they are deep cycle, even though it does not say so in
the text.

Anyway. I will charge it in the garage, and use a wheel cart to
transport it the short distance to the outhouse.

I am planning on using 12V LED-spots and possibly fluorescents.


Is there anything I should pay speccial attention to?

How long should I expect the battery to keep the charge when it's not
in use?

Is it OK to let it stay connected to the charger (Normal car-charger)
for a long time? (days/weeks)

Would it be smart to oversize the wiring to get less loss, or is that
neglible?
How far from the battery will cable loss have to be taken into
consideration?
Should I use solid copper wires, or multitread wires for instalation?

I intend to use MR11/GU4 sockets for the spots. I have found sockets
with soft wires attatched, but are looking for some with sturdier
wires or some where I can connect my own wires. This is so that I can
stretch two wires in the air, and connect the socket-wires to to them.
Then I will be able to bend them into postition, and thus decide where
the light goes.
Anyone know where I can get sockets like this?

--
SEE YA !!!
Trygve Lillefosse
AKA - Malawi, The Fisher King

  On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 21:53:58 +0200, Trygve Lillefosse


Get a set of the suspended "track light" type systems (Ikea, Home
Despot, or wherever) that have a "transformer" to produce 12 volts.
Throw away the infernal transformer and wire to the 12 volt battery.
Get a small solar cell to maintain the battery.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 16:25:46 -0400, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:


I want to put up some lighting of that "track light" type, if that
involves insulated metal cable. But I do not want to spend money on
the lamps/fittings, and rather have a more "industrial" look to it.

If I could get bare socket with stiff wires, I could bend the wires to
make the light go exactly where I want it.

--
SEE YA !!!
Trygve Lillefosse
AKA - Malawi, The Fisher King

 On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 21:53:58 +0200, Trygve Lillefosse


Have you considered simply inserting two wires of dissimilar metals,
spaced a short distance apart,  into the waste pit?  The urine is
acidic, and some LEDs, such as those that are used in book lights,
require very little power.  I'd bet that you could get enough power to
see what you are doing, without any other equipment at all.  If the
light got dim, you could pee in that area or add a little vinegar
(which keeps the smells down as well).  You could even make a bumper
sticker - "Power to the PeeHole!"  I don't think I'd use the raised
fist logo though...

 

My personal opinion is that it would take several containers of pee
connected in series to get enough voltage to power an LED.  But it would
probably power a small digital clock or thermometer.