Posted by Ulysses on March 31, 2010, 2:23 am
> Ulysses wrote:
>>
>> > Ulysses wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hi. I've been googling and read a lot about three phase power but
>> >> didn't
>> >> find the answer to my specific question...
>> >>
>> >> I have a vacuum-heat press that operates on 240 VAC single phase. The
>> >> plug is a 20 amp twistlock so I'm assuming it draws less than 20 amps
>> >> at
>> >> that voltage. The vacuum motor runs from 120 volts and is included in
>> >> the circuitry. I can't seem to find the wiring diagram so I'm
>> >> guessing
>> >> that either one leg of the 240 supplies the pump and the other
>> >> supplies
>> >> the the heating elements OR one leg supplies the pump and one heating
>> >> element and the other leg only one heating element (this seems
>> >> unlikely
>> >> to me).
>> >
>> > The 240 heating element is fed by the two coloured wires ONLY. The 120
>> > pump is fed by ONE of the coloured wires and the WHITE. you should have
>> > a
>> > four prong plug on the cord now. (two hots, a white and ground)
>>
>> I found the installation instructions (finally) but there is no wiring
>> diagram. You seem to be sure about how the heating elements are wired so
>> perhaps you are familiar with the type of press I'm talking about. It
>> turns
>> out the 208 volts is "acceptable" as per the instructions so that should
>> not
>> be a problem. I guess my question was not clear (or too many questions
>> at
>> once) but IF each heat element was connected to a different leg and
>> neutral
>> THEN each would be supplied with 120 volts and the 208 volts would be
>> irrelevant. Is this correct? The only three-phase I ever worked on
>> before
>> was with small alternators and I always used all three legs and was only
>> concerned with the total output. In any case I've worked with 240 volts
>> so
>> I'm sure I can do the wiring without any major mishaps. The vacuum press
>> has controls for setting the desired temperature and shows the present
>> temperature so it should work, just take a little longer to heat up as
>> was
>> mentioned. There is a card included with the instructions that tells
>> what
>> the voltage readings should be at an accessory outlet (120 volt) on the
>> front of the machine so that should tell me if everything is wired
>> correctly. I does, however, leave out one hot lead..... The hot leads
>> that I indend to use are each connected to 20 amp breakers and nothing
>> else
>> is being used on those circuits so I think I'm good-to-go. Thanks
>> everyone
>> for the help :-D
>>
> I'm not sure why you keep presuming that the heating elements are 120V.
Well, I didn't *think* I was presuming, maybe just hoping. If I understand
it correctly then IF each heating element was powered by a different leg of
the three-phase supply then there would be no loss of power being supplied
to the elements whether they were connected to single phase or three-phase.
I'm not trying to be difficult, I'm just trying to understand it completely.
The total voltage of my three-phase power that reads 208 volts between two
legs would be 360 volts, right (208*sq/rt of 3)? That would make each leg
produce 120 volts between hot and ground, right? With single phase each leg
would also be 120 volts between hot and ground. From what everyone has said
it is common for such heating elements to be connected to 208 or 240 (or
230) volts so I'm just trying to understand why. It seems to me it would be
more versatile if the elements were powered by 120.
> Unless you find ratings marked on them it is far more likely that they
> are 240V heaters and they are all wired in parallel across the 240V (or
> 208V) feed. The only odd thing would be if the motor is actually on 120V
> as it would be more likely to be a 120/240V motor and wired for 240V.
> Only the controls would have much probability of running on 120V only.
The motor has a 120 volt type power cord that appears to have Hot, N, and G.
I did not read the label on the motor to see if it could be wired for 240
but I'll have to do that. The motor plugs into it's own reserved receptacle
at the rear of the machine. I will test the voltage at that outlet once I
get the thing connected but since the power cord has a plug exactly like a
desk-top computer I'm *assuming* it's 120 volts. I mean, they wouldn't use
the same type of power cord for 240 would they and be running two hots and
ground through it?
> At any rate, since you indicated the press documentation indicates 208V
> is acceptable, any two of your three hot legs and the neutral (120/208V
> 3ph Wye config) is sufficiently equivalent to 120/240V 1ph 3wire.
Yes, and thank you.
Posted by Pete C. on March 31, 2010, 1:36 pm
Ulysses wrote:
>
> >
> > Ulysses wrote:
> >>
> >> > Ulysses wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Hi. I've been googling and read a lot about three phase power but
> >> >> didn't
> >> >> find the answer to my specific question...
> >> >>
> >> >> I have a vacuum-heat press that operates on 240 VAC single phase. The
> >> >> plug is a 20 amp twistlock so I'm assuming it draws less than 20 amps
> >> >> at
> >> >> that voltage. The vacuum motor runs from 120 volts and is included in
> >> >> the circuitry. I can't seem to find the wiring diagram so I'm
> >> >> guessing
> >> >> that either one leg of the 240 supplies the pump and the other
> >> >> supplies
> >> >> the the heating elements OR one leg supplies the pump and one heating
> >> >> element and the other leg only one heating element (this seems
> >> >> unlikely
> >> >> to me).
> >> >
> >> > The 240 heating element is fed by the two coloured wires ONLY. The 120
> >> > pump is fed by ONE of the coloured wires and the WHITE. you should have
> >> > a
> >> > four prong plug on the cord now. (two hots, a white and ground)
> >>
> >> I found the installation instructions (finally) but there is no wiring
> >> diagram. You seem to be sure about how the heating elements are wired so
> >> perhaps you are familiar with the type of press I'm talking about. It
> >> turns
> >> out the 208 volts is "acceptable" as per the instructions so that should
> >> not
> >> be a problem. I guess my question was not clear (or too many questions
> >> at
> >> once) but IF each heat element was connected to a different leg and
> >> neutral
> >> THEN each would be supplied with 120 volts and the 208 volts would be
> >> irrelevant. Is this correct? The only three-phase I ever worked on
> >> before
> >> was with small alternators and I always used all three legs and was only
> >> concerned with the total output. In any case I've worked with 240 volts
> >> so
> >> I'm sure I can do the wiring without any major mishaps. The vacuum press
> >> has controls for setting the desired temperature and shows the present
> >> temperature so it should work, just take a little longer to heat up as
> >> was
> >> mentioned. There is a card included with the instructions that tells
> >> what
> >> the voltage readings should be at an accessory outlet (120 volt) on the
> >> front of the machine so that should tell me if everything is wired
> >> correctly. I does, however, leave out one hot lead..... The hot leads
> >> that I indend to use are each connected to 20 amp breakers and nothing
> >> else
> >> is being used on those circuits so I think I'm good-to-go. Thanks
> >> everyone
> >> for the help :-D
> >>
> >
> > I'm not sure why you keep presuming that the heating elements are 120V.
>
> Well, I didn't *think* I was presuming, maybe just hoping. If I understand
> it correctly then IF each heating element was powered by a different leg of
> the three-phase supply then there would be no loss of power being supplied
> to the elements whether they were connected to single phase or three-phase.
> I'm not trying to be difficult, I'm just trying to understand it completely.
> The total voltage of my three-phase power that reads 208 volts between two
> legs would be 360 volts, right (208*sq/rt of 3)? That would make each leg
> produce 120 volts between hot and ground, right? With single phase each leg
> would also be 120 volts between hot and ground. From what everyone has said
> it is common for such heating elements to be connected to 208 or 240 (or
> 230) volts so I'm just trying to understand why. It seems to me it would be
> more versatile if the elements were powered by 120.
Higher voltage = the same wattage with smaller and less expensive
conductors. Double the voltage, half the amperage. The elements could be
120V, but that would be unusual unless they are quite small.
>
> > Unless you find ratings marked on them it is far more likely that they
> > are 240V heaters and they are all wired in parallel across the 240V (or
> > 208V) feed. The only odd thing would be if the motor is actually on 120V
> > as it would be more likely to be a 120/240V motor and wired for 240V.
> > Only the controls would have much probability of running on 120V only.
>
> The motor has a 120 volt type power cord that appears to have Hot, N, and G.
> I did not read the label on the motor to see if it could be wired for 240
> but I'll have to do that. The motor plugs into it's own reserved receptacle
> at the rear of the machine. I will test the voltage at that outlet once I
> get the thing connected but since the power cord has a plug exactly like a
> desk-top computer I'm *assuming* it's 120 volts. I mean, they wouldn't use
> the same type of power cord for 240 would they and be running two hots and
> ground through it?
Look closely at that receptacle and see if the blades are sideways i.e.
240V receptacle. A three wire cord is entirely normal for a 240V motor
since they have no need for a neutral, and while the white conductor
should be marked black or red on the ends when used as a hot lead, it's
common to not bother in such an application.
>
> >
> > At any rate, since you indicated the press documentation indicates 208V
> > is acceptable, any two of your three hot legs and the neutral (120/208V
> > 3ph Wye config) is sufficiently equivalent to 120/240V 1ph 3wire.
>
> Yes, and thank you.
Posted by Josepi on March 31, 2010, 1:18 pm
The machine will be fine. This is very common practice to do this.
Many utilities will crank up the voltage and call it 125 / 216 volts
(network) as this satisfied the 240 volt loads a little better and is still
acceptable for the 120 volt loads. 208 volts may be below the acceptable 240
standards (+/- 10%) for residential grid power supply specs. If you have
your own transformer feeding you place the utility may consider raising a
tap or two for you on the street transformer, provided it has them.
I found the installation instructions (finally) but there is no wiring
diagram. You seem to be sure about how the heating elements are wired so
perhaps you are familiar with the type of press I'm talking about. It turns
out the 208 volts is "acceptable" as per the instructions so that should not
be a problem. I guess my question was not clear (or too many questions at
once) but IF each heat element was connected to a different leg and neutral
THEN each would be supplied with 120 volts and the 208 volts would be
irrelevant. Is this correct? The only three-phase I ever worked on before
was with small alternators and I always used all three legs and was only
concerned with the total output. In any case I've worked with 240 volts so
I'm sure I can do the wiring without any major mishaps. The vacuum press
has controls for setting the desired temperature and shows the present
temperature so it should work, just take a little longer to heat up as was
mentioned. There is a card included with the instructions that tells what
the voltage readings should be at an accessory outlet (120 volt) on the
front of the machine so that should tell me if everything is wired
correctly. I does, however, leave out one hot lead..... The hot leads
that I indend to use are each connected to 20 amp breakers and nothing else
is being used on those circuits so I think I'm good-to-go. Thanks everyone
for the help :-D
Posted by Ulysses on April 15, 2010, 4:16 pm
I finally got to the vacuum press and got it wired and everything is OAK :-D
The pump is 1/3 HP and runs from 120 VAC single phase so that was easy. I
never did check the voltage at the 240 outlet in the unit I moved from but
there is very little doubt that the power there was also three-phase so the
press was almost certainly running from 208 volts there. In any case we
are not noticing any difference in the operation of the pump or heating
elements.
Thanks everyone for all the help!
> Hi. I've been googling and read a lot about three phase power but didn't
> find the answer to my specific question...
> I have a vacuum-heat press that operates on 240 VAC single phase. The
plug
> is a 20 amp twistlock so I'm assuming it draws less than 20 amps at that
> voltage. The vacuum motor runs from 120 volts and is included in the
> circuitry. I can't seem to find the wiring diagram so I'm guessing that
> either one leg of the 240 supplies the pump and the other supplies the the
> heating elements OR one leg supplies the pump and one heating element and
> the other leg only one heating element (this seems unlikely to me).
> So, I have three-phase power in my store and the voltage across any two
hot
> lines is about 209. BUT, the voltage between any hot line and ground or
> neutral is 120 volts. SO, since I'm not going to be running any 240 volt
> motors etc, and the pump is running from 120 volts anyway, can I simply
> connect the vacuum-heat press to two legs of the three-phase plus neutral
> and ground? As far as I can figure I will be supplying the pump and
heating
> elements individually with 120 anyway. Unless for some reason the heating
> elements require 240 but that seems like it would be an unbalanced load
with
> the pump drawing only 120 from one of the lines.
> The wiring diagram is somewhere and I'll consult it before doing anyway.
If
> this won't work what are my options?
Posted by Ulysses on April 15, 2010, 5:16 pm
I finally (yesterday) got the vacuum press connected and everything is AOK
:-D The pump is 1/3 HP single phase 120 VAC so that was no problem. The
elements seem to heat up at the same rate they did before. I did not check
the voltage in my other unit but there is very little doubt that it was also
three-phase so it was probably running from 208 volts before. Now for the
neon signs....
Thanks everyone for all the help!
P.S. I tried to post this from my laptop and it wouldn't send so I hope this
isn't a duplicate.
> Hi. I've been googling and read a lot about three phase power but didn't
> find the answer to my specific question...
> I have a vacuum-heat press that operates on 240 VAC single phase. The
> plug is a 20 amp twistlock so I'm assuming it draws less than 20 amps at
> that voltage. The vacuum motor runs from 120 volts and is included in the
> circuitry. I can't seem to find the wiring diagram so I'm guessing that
> either one leg of the 240 supplies the pump and the other supplies the the
> heating elements OR one leg supplies the pump and one heating element and
> the other leg only one heating element (this seems unlikely to me).
> So, I have three-phase power in my store and the voltage across any two
> hot lines is about 209. BUT, the voltage between any hot line and ground
> or neutral is 120 volts. SO, since I'm not going to be running any 240
> volt motors etc, and the pump is running from 120 volts anyway, can I
> simply connect the vacuum-heat press to two legs of the three-phase plus
> neutral and ground? As far as I can figure I will be supplying the pump
> and heating elements individually with 120 anyway. Unless for some reason
> the heating elements require 240 but that seems like it would be an
> unbalanced load with the pump drawing only 120 from one of the lines.
> The wiring diagram is somewhere and I'll consult it before doing anyway.
> If this won't work what are my options?
>
>>
>> > Ulysses wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hi. I've been googling and read a lot about three phase power but
>> >> didn't
>> >> find the answer to my specific question...
>> >>
>> >> I have a vacuum-heat press that operates on 240 VAC single phase. The
>> >> plug is a 20 amp twistlock so I'm assuming it draws less than 20 amps
>> >> at
>> >> that voltage. The vacuum motor runs from 120 volts and is included in
>> >> the circuitry. I can't seem to find the wiring diagram so I'm
>> >> guessing
>> >> that either one leg of the 240 supplies the pump and the other
>> >> supplies
>> >> the the heating elements OR one leg supplies the pump and one heating
>> >> element and the other leg only one heating element (this seems
>> >> unlikely
>> >> to me).
>> >
>> > The 240 heating element is fed by the two coloured wires ONLY. The 120
>> > pump is fed by ONE of the coloured wires and the WHITE. you should have
>> > a
>> > four prong plug on the cord now. (two hots, a white and ground)
>>
>> I found the installation instructions (finally) but there is no wiring
>> diagram. You seem to be sure about how the heating elements are wired so
>> perhaps you are familiar with the type of press I'm talking about. It
>> turns
>> out the 208 volts is "acceptable" as per the instructions so that should
>> not
>> be a problem. I guess my question was not clear (or too many questions
>> at
>> once) but IF each heat element was connected to a different leg and
>> neutral
>> THEN each would be supplied with 120 volts and the 208 volts would be
>> irrelevant. Is this correct? The only three-phase I ever worked on
>> before
>> was with small alternators and I always used all three legs and was only
>> concerned with the total output. In any case I've worked with 240 volts
>> so
>> I'm sure I can do the wiring without any major mishaps. The vacuum press
>> has controls for setting the desired temperature and shows the present
>> temperature so it should work, just take a little longer to heat up as
>> was
>> mentioned. There is a card included with the instructions that tells
>> what
>> the voltage readings should be at an accessory outlet (120 volt) on the
>> front of the machine so that should tell me if everything is wired
>> correctly. I does, however, leave out one hot lead..... The hot leads
>> that I indend to use are each connected to 20 amp breakers and nothing
>> else
>> is being used on those circuits so I think I'm good-to-go. Thanks
>> everyone
>> for the help :-D
>>
> I'm not sure why you keep presuming that the heating elements are 120V.