Advice - Geothermal cooling concept - Page 9

 zero wrote:

I lied. It keeps people thinking, unless of course their IQ is zero;-}

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

Lordy, did Hell Freeze Over?????  Georgie admitted that he LIED!!!!!!
Must be gett'en close to the Second Coming....... for Georgie to
admit to any Mistake..... Hmmmm......

 You wrote:

The second coming has been and gone. Christ took one look at Amerka, said "to
hell with that" and
slouched off to another dimension.

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Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 
hell with that" and

(Laughing)

Wow, my original question generated a lot of good discussion (and some
of the usual usenet insults and name calling).

Thanks for the information.  I can see I need to:

Test the temperature of the lake water from near the bottom.  The
surface gets quite warm, but dive down 10 feet and it gets quite a bit
colder.  This is gulf coast Texas, however, and I doubt I get below
mid 40's or to 50s deg F.  Isn't that the normal temperature of
caves?  I'm not sure of my area in Texas, I grew up around Virginia
and it was about 40's there.
http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/heating_cooling/geothermal.html
Anyway, anyone have an idea of how cold the water should be to make a
cooling system viable in the summer?

Source of a pump?

Look into how high a pump can pull the water to get where my AC heat
exchanger is located.  I anticipate the water would flow through there
to use the existing ductwork and fans.  My home is not terribly far
horizontally or vertically from the lake (perhaps 8' vertical, and 40'
horizontal), but the AC equip is on the attic of second level, so that
would be a bit of a pump.  I understand about the drop leg of the
system helping with the syphon, perhaps that is the ticket to getting
the deal started is to fill the downleg of the pipe with water and
have a helper open it up as the pump is turned on, that would help
"prime" the pump.  I don't know if it makes more sense to have a
closed loop or open loop.  Closed would not "muck up" as fast, the
lake water does have alge.  Perhaps a copper coil would work and then
PVC or something like that to keep costs down on the rest of the
pipes.

I cracked up at the suggestion that my house was lower than the lake.
But at least that would keep it much cooler, although I would need a
raft instead of a bed to sleep in.  Around here, we don't have hills
(a point that sort of freaked me out at first ) its super flat.  North
of town there are some rolling hills and Austin and what they call
East Texas has hills, but Brazoria County (south of Houston) does not.

We have regular winds here with the flat terrain and the gulf of
Mexico about  30 miles away, so the prospect of making a wind powered
water pump (a-la the old wild west sort came to mind) might be a
distant possibility, although the homeowners assn would probably not
approve it.

I have also an ample supply of southern sun, and have looked at PV
panels and a grid tied solar system, but w/o any significant tax
incentives the payback was not good enough, over 10 years.  Maybe a
change in presidents for '08 will solve that problem.

Scott

Ps. Mostly everyone was trying to help, so try to be courtious.

 On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 12:30:58 -0700, wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net wrote:


I'm thinking that you could expect about a 10 degree F drop across the
coil. So if duct temperature is 75, you'd need water 65 or colder.


Once you figure out total head and gpm, check the curves of applicable
circulators. I expect the right one might only cost about $150.


That height and distance is trivial.


Sure. Don't forget to allow for heat loss in the plumbing.


No sense waiting for pandering politicians. Solar water heating is
relatively cheap, you could start there. A good DIYer can put together
a decent setup for about $1000. Heck, if the line feeding your water
heater was run through the attic during the warm season you'd get an
appreciable gain.

Wayne