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Autotransformer to run Well Pump? - Page 11

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Posted by Ulysses on April 23, 2007, 3:05 pm
 




looking

The low output seems to fit my situation: my 9 HP Honda powered 4200/5000
generator drops to a little over 100 (one leg) volts when the pump is
running.  My cheap Chinese 5000/5500 generator was set a bit too low at the
factory and I adjusted the voltage/frequency this morning so I'll be finding
out soon if it pumps any faster.

I think they would have told me if they'd put in a flow restrictor--at least
I hope they would have.  I'm about ready to call them to see if they can
give me a wiring diagram for my float switch so I can move it up to my
little tank on the hill and my water supply will then become automatic.
I'll ask about the restrictor.  BTW I'm getting a hair over 40 psi, not the
26 or 27 psi I was expecting from my gravity-fed system.  I forget: 1 1/2'
of elevation gets you 1 psi?

Your pump

I ordered two Outbacks and the transformer and, after reading all the great
responses to my post, I'm confident it will work out well (no pun intended)
for me.  So far the most I've had to run the well pump at one time was 20
minutes and that got it above the fill pipe so either it was pumping at a
higher rate or I was way off on my estimate of how much water was missing
from the tank.  On the average I expect to be running it around 15 minutes a
day after we do some landscaping.  Right now I'm still installing the water
pipes and I'm working on making it freeze-proof.  I bought some automatic
drain valves to put on both ends of the pipe from the pump so any water left
in the pipe will be about 15 inches or more below ground so I expect to be
able to run my pump when it's below freezing.  I did quite a bit of
searching on Yahoo and Google but could not find any mention of automatic
drain valves for a well system, only sprinklers.  That kinda makes me wonder
if it's a great idea.  I bought the best quality ones I could find and they
are going to be surrounded by a drain box which will be surrounded by
gravel.  In any case it won't take a lot if digging to get to them if they
should fail.

In any case my wife and daughters are glad they don't run out of water while
taking and shower any more and it's great to have a good water supply
without having any electricity on while using it.  When I was using a 55
gallon drum for my gravity system it took about 15-20 minutes to fill it
with 1/2" tubing going to it--a long, long way from being effecient.




Posted by Ecnerwal on April 23, 2007, 5:20 pm
 




Well, if they did, don't go yanking it. If one is there, it's because
the pump can be overloaded by pumping from low head.


Be very careful of lightning strikes, or at least be very proactive
about putting in a bunch of suppression and ground rods (the well casing
serves a big ground rod, and should be tied in, per most suggestions).
You run control switches (and wires) up the hill, you might attract a
strike to the well controls/pump. Mind you, finding non-conflicting
lightning protection information seems to be a matter of only getting it
from one source - any two seem to differ in some detail about what you
should/should not do.


About 2.31 ft water head = 1 PSI. 40+ PSI would mean about 93 feet of
head. I got my well in and have been pump shopping - 100 ft static and
320 feet overall, drillers suggest pump setting of 300 feet. That seems
to mean that the pipe going down the well should be 200PSI, in case the
water level ever gets anywhere near the pump (figuring on 20/40 or 30/50
pressure tank a few feet above the top of the well). The above-ground
could be 100, but will be 160 because I already have some 160 on hand.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Posted by Ulysses on April 23, 2007, 9:18 pm
 



OK.  I was warned not to run it without an outlet for the water, i.e. don't
hook up a garden hose with a shut-off nozzle unless I have another hose
that's open.


Lightning had not crossed my mind.  I did not think it would be an issue
with the wire in conduit and mostly underground, but I search for info like
you suggested.



Posted by wmbjk on April 23, 2007, 6:24 pm
 

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 12:05:00 -0700, "Ulysses"



In your case it would only be an issue if you ran the pump
open-discharge at the well head. So a reasonable approach would have
been a written warning about upthrust.
http://welltamer.com/welltamer_upthrust.html  


Here's a diagram for the usual circuit
http://www.franklin-electric.com/aid/vol16no2.htm . If your control box
doesn't already have a contactor then you'll need to add one (about
$15). You can wire a timer in series with the float switch so that the
pump is restricted to running at the best time. I like this one
http://www.intermatic.com/?action=prod&pid 3 (about $30 at Home
Depot) because it's powered 100% by a AAA which lasts a year or more.
While you're talking to that contractor, ask him if he installed a
motor protection device. It's most needed if the recovery rate is less
than the pumping rate. This one is a popular choice
http://www.franklin-electric.com/Prod_text/item8.htm . $128 here
http://tinyurl.com/2lvxyl , but shop around if you need one.


1psi for each 2.31 feet of elevation. IIRC, the tank is at the top of
a 140' hill, and the well is at the bottom. If you're getting 40psi,
then either the house is nearer the bottom of the hill, or you need a
new gauge.  :-)


The normal setup in cold country is to have a pitless adapter (#7 on
the diagram here http://www.aquascience.net/well_accessories.htm ) at
the well head, buried pipe, and an insulated cover over the water
inlet to the tank if it's an above-ground tank. There shouldn't be
anything that needs draining.

Wayne


Posted by sylvan butler on April 24, 2007, 11:00 am
 


140ft * 1psi/2.31ft = 60psi. the house must be 2/3 of the way down.

Also don't forget it is the height of the water column.  So if you have
an 8ft tall tank on top of the hill, you have 3psi more when the tank is
full than when it is empty.

sdb
--
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sdbuse1   on mailhost  bigfoot.com

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