Posted by Steve Lusardi on December 22, 2010, 5:09 pm
Iggy,
I am VERY familiar with this motor. I have built several and have many spare
parts in storage. I run a 3-53 as my auxiliary in the
sailboat I have been building . These DDA Detroits are very customizable. Not
only do they come both left hand and right hand,
the governor and supercharger (airbox blower) can be on the left or right side.
The head can be swapped around as well, along with
the cam and countershaft. You can take accessory power off both the cam and
countershaft front and back. The fuel feed pump can be
driven off the left or right side of the flywheel housing, as well as the
governor. You can get an aortic start kit that mounts
in the airbox access port opposite the blower. You have a choice of 4 different
governors for the motor and the list goes on and
on. They are built like a Swiss watch. They hate exhaust back pressure. There
are a myriad of fuel injectors that work on this.
You will probably find it has S45s or S50s, but I use the newer N type injector
now.
The most common failure is head cracking across the exhaust valve seats and it
is almost always caused by loss of coolant and the
operator sleeping at the switch. The early versions of this motor had a two
exhaust valve head. Most of those were stationary
units (Pumps & Generators). In the late sixties the US Army used an aluminum
version of this motor with an Iron 4 valve head in
their Gamma Goat rough terrain articulated field truck. These were phased out in
the eighties, but these units can still be found.
Good luck with the project. If you take some more pictures, I will be able to
tell you more. As far as weight, they can vary quite
a bit based on its configuration, but that engine, assuming it's iron, with
gearbox and radiator around 900 lbs. As it has the old
type valve cover, you will find a build plate along one side. On that plate will
be the entire build specs....don't lose it.
Steve
>> Iggy,
>> It is a 3-53. The valve cover indicates it was manufactured in the early
1970's. It is a bit odd, as very few were
>> turbocharged.
>> It is also designed for a vehicle of some sort. They are excellent motors.
The standard engine is rated at 85 hp continuous at
>> 2800 rpm. It should have a limiting speed governor set for 3100 rpm. I would
assume about 110 hp with the turbo. Core value is
>> about $,000 + - .
> Steve, I looked at some images of 3-53 and it looks spot-on. Any idea
> what its weight may be?
> Maybe it does not have a turbocharger, all I know is what I see on the
> pic.
> If you look at this picture
> http://www.stewartengrg.com/assets/image/engine_available/3-53Engine.jpg
> Then perhaps the appendage on the right is the same as on my engine,
> and is not a turbocharger, afer all.
> I always wanted to mess with a DD -53 or a -71 engine and post some
> youtube videos. Never could come across one where there is no
> risk. Finally got this one for $00 sight unseen.
> I think that I will put it inside my now enclosed trailer, so that I
> could work on it regardless of weather.
> i
>>
>>
>>> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Detroit-Diesel.jpg
>>>
>>> What attracted me to it was that the air intake (or exhaust) on the
>>> turbocharger was taped with duct tape. So, I thought, someone cared
>>> about it enough to tape it. The auction said "detroit diesel series
>>> 350 power unit". But the auctioneer does not always know what he is
>>> describing, for example the rotary table and a separate backplate in
>>> one lot, was described as "lathe chuck".
>>>
>>> So... Anyone has seen this sort of thing before?
>>>
>>> i
>>
Posted by Ignoramus29073 on December 22, 2010, 7:38 pm
> Iggy,
> I am VERY familiar with this motor. I have built several and have
> many spare parts in storage. I run a 3-53 as my auxiliary in the
> sailboat I have been building . These DDA Detroits are very
> customizable. Not only do they come both left hand and right hand,
> the governor and supercharger (airbox blower) can be on the left or
> right side. The head can be swapped around as well, along with the
> cam and countershaft. You can take accessory power off both the cam
> and countershaft front and back. The fuel feed pump can be driven
> off the left or right side of the flywheel housing, as well as the
> governor. You can get an aortic start kit that mounts in the airbox
> access port opposite the blower. You have a choice of 4 different
> governors for the motor and the list goes on and on. They are built
> like a Swiss watch. They hate exhaust back pressure. There are a
> myriad of fuel injectors that work on this. You will probably find
> it has S45s or S50s, but I use the newer N type injector now.
> The most common failure is head cracking across the exhaust valve
> seats and it is almost always caused by loss of coolant and the
> operator sleeping at the switch. The early versions of this motor
> had a two exhaust valve head. Most of those were stationary units
> (Pumps & Generators). In the late sixties the US Army used an
> aluminum version of this motor with an Iron 4 valve head in their
> Gamma Goat rough terrain articulated field truck. These were phased
> out in the eighties, but these units can still be found. Good luck
> with the project. If you take some more pictures, I will be able to
> tell you more. As far as weight, they can vary quite a bit based on
> its configuration, but that engine, assuming it's iron, with gearbox
> and radiator around 900 lbs. As it has the old type valve cover, you
> will find a build plate along one side. On that plate will be the
> entire build specs....don't lose it. Steve
Steve, this is great. The engine is in my enclosed trailer:
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/11-With-Cover/
Since the trailer is enclosed, I will try to unfreeze it tonight with
a space heater. I can put a big light in the trailer and work on it in
relative comfort.
Do you know if I can find manuals for this engine online?
Also, while I am dreaming, let's say I get it started,
hypothetically. All it needs is fuel and cranking, after all.
How do I shut it down?
i
Posted by Morris Dovey on December 22, 2010, 7:56 pm
On 12/22/2010 1:38 PM, Ignoramus29073 wrote:
> All it needs is fuel and cranking, after all.
>
> How do I shut it down?
Shut off the fuel supply (and/or stop cranking)? ;)
--
Morris Dovey
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Posted by Ignoramus29073 on December 22, 2010, 8:39 pm
> On 12/22/2010 1:38 PM, Ignoramus29073 wrote:
>> All it needs is fuel and cranking, after all.
>>
>> How do I shut it down?
> Shut off the fuel supply (and/or stop cranking)? ;)
A working engine would not stop if I discontinue cranking:)
I like the first suggestion however, so: how do I shut off fuel
supply on this one?
Don't those Detroits have a special air baffle (slam door) to stop
runaway engine operation? Steve Lusardi must know what I am talking
about.
That's why I am worried about shutting this DD down:
http://www.motorwatch.com/automotivebible/mechanics_nightmares/mnmDiesel.htm
i
Posted by clare on December 22, 2010, 8:58 pm
On Wed, 22 Dec 2010 14:39:52 -0600, Ignoramus29073
>> On 12/22/2010 1:38 PM, Ignoramus29073 wrote:
>>
>>> All it needs is fuel and cranking, after all.
>>>
>>> How do I shut it down?
>>
>> Shut off the fuel supply (and/or stop cranking)? ;)
>>
>A working engine would not stop if I discontinue cranking:)
>I like the first suggestion however, so: how do I shut off fuel
>supply on this one?
>Don't those Detroits have a special air baffle (slam door) to stop
>runaway engine operation? Steve Lusardi must know what I am talking
>about.
>That's why I am worried about shutting this DD down:
>http://www.motorwatch.com/automotivebible/mechanics_nightmares/mnmDiesel.htm
>i
A piece of 5/8 or 4/4" plywood slapped over the inlet will do it.
Don't try anything less substantial. I saw a set of coveralls go right
through one. If the turbo oil seal lets go, shutting them down can be
problematic.
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>> It is a 3-53. The valve cover indicates it was manufactured in the early