Posted by Steve Lusardi on December 23, 2010, 8:38 am
When you defrost the engine, you will find the Governor, which will be located
either on the right or left side of the motor. It
is bolted to the front of the flywheel housing. (It is probably the more simple
limiting speed governor) On top of the governor
there will be two levers. The long one is the throttle and the short one is the
stop lever, which closes the injector rack down.
The short lever must be set to run before cranking. Stopping the motor is simply
moving the short lever to stop.
The runaway diesel threat for DDs is usually not on the injector side , but from
ingesting its own lube oil from an internal leak
into the air box. Your engine will usually not have the clapper door on the
blower intake. Those are mostly found on marine
configurations. Not having one is a non issue, just have pillow ready to stuff
over the inlet screen of the blower in case this
happens. It is common practice when starting an unknown engine to pull the valve
cover and remove the cotter pin on the lever
coming from the governor to the injector rack. This allows you, the operator, to
control the rack manually. Doing this allows you
to visually observe the function of the governor and look for fuel line leaks
around the injectors and injector pipes. I suggest
you hang a fuel container above the engine and run the feed line to the pump, as
well as the return line from the fuel log in the
head. This allows self priming. Do not be over rambunctious when operating the
rack. The throttle response is instantaneous. You
could end up with the motor in your lap, as it won't be bolted down.
I have both a full 53 series set of manuals, including parts books in paper. I
bought them new from DD many years ago. The parts
books are VERY helpful. If you need parts, most of the dealers insist on having
the serial number of the engine, as the build of
every engine is on the computer. This creates a problem if you are doing a
custom build and can only be overcome when you have the
part number. Yes, if you search on eBay, you will find manuals on CD being
advertised. I don't know if the parts data is included,
but they are cheap. You will also need many special tools to work on these. I
made most of my own, but some of the original Kent
Moore gauges are required. They too are occasionally on eBay. You have to watch.
If you run into a problem, you can contact me
off-line and I may be able to help.
Some additional points, the major difference between the 53 series and the other
DDA series is that the 53s are wet
sleeve(cylinder liner) and the others are dry sleeve. You MUST pull the cover to
the airbox and inspect for water and oil FIRST
before attempting to crank the motor. Also you should turn the motor over with a
breaker bar one full revolution, just in case
there is water in a cylinder, otherwise you will bend connecting rods just by
cranking from the starter motor. (22 to 1
Posted by Ignoramus30015 on December 23, 2010, 2:55 pm
I am defrosting it now.
Cool. I will look closer tonight, yesterday it was all covered with
OK, thanks. I will keep your message and will try to look at the
engine again tonight.
I found some manuals and I put them on my website, so that search
engines can find them, so that people can get them for free.
Steve, I would loathe to do any deep rebuild. I have never been good
at that sort of thing. I will see if it I can be brought to life
quickly. At this point, I want to simply understand its operation.
One more thing. I had to drag this engine with a chain 8 feet and that
was a major mistake. The bottom pan became slightly busted. Not in a
huge way, but I am pretty sure that I need to pull it from under the
engine, fix with a sledge and weld any holes. It seems to have
developed a small leak.
Any thoughts on this?
Yes, I will try. I think that I would need to pull the power
transmission clutch/pulley assembly offthe end bell for this, but that
would be a good thing anyway.
I did this with a Cummins L423D.
Posted by Steve Lusardi on December 23, 2010, 6:16 pm
I wouldn't put those manuals on your site. You will be violating copyright laws.
Let others do that.
Pulling that pan is easy if you have a sturdy engine stand. Another way would be
a chain fall suspending the whole engine. There
will be two lift tangs mounted on the head and flywheel housing. Pay close
attention to the oil pump pickup and make sure you
didn't damage that. Check for sludge build up. This will tell a story. Also,
while you are there, pull the front cylinder con rod
cap and check the bearing. Do the same for the rear main. keep it really, really
clean. I highly suggest you power wash the motor
BEFORE disassembly takes place. Remember DDAs do not like multi-grade oil. You
must use a straight 30wt diesel oil. Multi-grade
oils do not have sufficient shear strength. This is in the manual.
PS Gas motors have Bell Housings. Diesels have Flywheel Housings and they
conform to an industry standard SAE #1, #2, #3 etc.
Posted by Ignoramus30015 on December 24, 2010, 2:57 am
Steve, thanks for your words of wisdom. Regarding copyright, I am a
member of the Manual Liberation Front, whose goal is to liberate old
manuals that are trapped in dirty hands of greedy manual CD sellers
and web spammers, and make them freely available to the public. Feel
free to copy and share.
Here's a little update.
THE MOTOR TURNS OVER EASILY WHEN TURNED WITH A PIPE WRENCH.
That alone is good news, if that was not the case, I would be heading
with it to a scrap yard tomorrow.
Here's a web page that I set up with the info on the motor and many
more new pictures:
Serial and Model Numbers
On Block: 2 CWC-5125423-133
IDLE 550 MIN
Any comments on the motor? Any guess as to the year?
Life is becoming fun again!
Posted by Steve Lusardi on December 24, 2010, 11:06 am
The info you need is on the build plate. The decode of that can be found in the
first section of manual #1. Unfortunately, it
appears missing. What I do know is that it is a Fan to Flywheel industrial
engine designed to drive pumps, conveyer belt systems,
rock crushers or the like. It has a PTO, a limiting speed governor and I think
an SAE #3 flywheel housing. I did also notice that
it is equipped with an intake clapper, so you don't need a pillow nearby when
you start it. I cannot tell if has 2 or 4 valve
head. This can be determined when you remove the valve cover. Send me a picture
of that. What are you going to do with it? It can
pull a 20 KVA alternator with a 2 valve head and a 30 KVA with a 4 valve head.
As far as age, my best guess is early 70s. Late
models have aluminum valve covers and smaller secondary counter balance pulleys
on the cam and countershaft. There is no turbo.