Energy scams - Page 9

 

http://www.newark.com/agilent-technologies/n3300a/dc-electronic-load-mainframe-1/dp/95H8001?in_merch=true&MER=FP_N_L5_Agilent_None

Me too, actually.
I checked out the auto-air adapter with a rats nest of these
http://sigma.octopart.com/8900891/image/Ohmite-RJS6R0.jpg
before risking the laptop.

When I was testing electric vehicle and medical equipment batteries I
had the high-buck test setups. I don't need to be that accurate at
home.

jsw

  On 5/24/2012 3:47 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

My point is that it IS NOT difficult at all.
IN the US, there's a wattmeter at the utility entrance.
OR
A $
0 KillAWatt meter will do pretty well for AC powered stuff.
You can measure output power with a resistor, thermometer, stopwatch
and a pound of water.
The good news is that you don't need high accuracy at all.
Free energy does not obey the known laws of physics.
It's everywhere and in infinite supply, waiting to be tapped.
Any free energy device worth having will put out WAY, WAY
more power than you put in.  It will be very obvious that it is working.

I think that's the crux of the problem.  There probably have
been many successful free energy devices.  They just worked so well
that they destroyed themselves, the inventor and any evidence that they
ever existed.

I believe that a supernova are the results of successful free energy
devices developed elsewhere in the universe.  We've been lucky so far.

 

I'm not convinced that a KAW reads correctly on the output of a UPS or
inverter.

My utility meter records 7.2 Watt-Hours per disk rotation. It's the
value stamped in the 'Kh" box.

jsw

 On 5/24/2012 6:42 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

Ok, so who said to power it with an inverter?  Try sinewave outa the
wall socket.
Yes, you can conceive a load crest factor that makes it inaccurate.
But it's a moot point.  The output is gonna be WAY bigger than the input
power for any useful free energy device.  Your biggest problem is to
moderate that infinite energy.

It's a diversion, but any device that fools the energy company into
billing you for less has value too...until they catch you.

Same problem I have with Rossi.  If it works, you won't need a generator
the size of a boxcar and high accuracy measurement tools.  Just measure
how long it takes to boil a quantity of water and show that it's WAY
more energy than you put in.  If it's a maze of pipes in a box inside a
boxcar beside
a generator behind a curtain, it's a scam.

Mine puts out  infrared pulses watts600*Freq.  But you'd need to spend
a quarter on a garage-sale PalmIII to read it.

One more time...a WORKING free-energy device is gonna be EASY to verify.
You'll probably have the fire department as witness.

And if it turns out that you were mistaken and your device did follow
the known
laws of physics, you'd have the AEC, NRC, Hazmat and homeland
security as witness.
It's not rocket surgery, it's snake oil.

 

The KWH reading from a discharge test gives the remaining capacity of
the battery that powers the inverter, simply and safely.

I use a KAWez P4460 which retains the values after the inverter's low
voltage shutdown, and reads to 0.01 KWH or 10 Watt-Hours, so it has
enough resolution for small UPS batteries.

The indicated capacity of a new deep-discharge battery wan't much less
than what it should be, though it was discharged in six hours instead
of the 20 of its A-H rating.

I haven't finished the extra hardware and programming necessary to
read battery voltage and current with a laptop and datalogger. I have
a Radio Shack multimeter with an optically isolated serial port and a
serial port Dataq DI-194, both of which I can operate from DOS+QBasic
(unlike USB devices) on a laptop with 0~5V COM signal levels. Their
included Windows programs will run simultaneously but they log to
different files at different sampling rates.

Dataq's current lineup:
http://www.dataq.com/?source=googledq&gclid=CODez8y1kasCFesLtAodJS-Qtg
An isolated current sensor:
http://www.gmw.com/magnetic_sensors/ametes/CS.html

jsw