Posted by Ulysses on July 8, 2005, 11:45 pm
As some of you know I'm working on one of those small engines turning an
alternator battery chargers/12 volt generators. I'm using a fairly new
Honda GC135 (4 HP) engine, a 5 inch pulley, and a 63 amp alternator
(rebuilt, just bought it). It is the same as the one at
http://theepicenter.com/tow02077.html (Delco-Remy 1100934 ).
The output is 14 volts when not connected to a battery, and is lower
depending upon the condition of the battery. For example, one battery read
about 12.1 volts with the unit running. The problem is it was only charging
at about 1 amp. When I increased the engine speed it only went up to about
1.25 amps. It was the same with 3 different batteries. I have it connected
exactly the same as the wiring diagram on the epicenter site. They have a
switch on the "R" wire and say that it is difficult to pull the starter rope
if not switched off when starting the engine but my engine started very
easily with it connected. I'm sure the belt is not slipping and the pulley
really can't slip the way it's attached.
Any suggestions? Bad alternator maybe? Should I have bought the really
expensive one? At this point I think I could produce more current hooking
the alternator up to a bicycle and pedaling it.
Posted by wmbjk on July 9, 2005, 10:03 am
On Fri, 8 Jul 2005 20:45:57 -0700, "Ulysses"
>As some of you know I'm working on one of those small engines turning an
>alternator battery chargers/12 volt generators. I'm using a fairly new
>Honda GC135 (4 HP) engine, a 5 inch pulley, and a 63 amp alternator
>(rebuilt, just bought it). It is the same as the one at
>http://theepicenter.com/tow02077.html (Delco-Remy 1100934 ).
>The output is 14 volts when not connected to a battery, and is lower
>depending upon the condition of the battery. For example, one battery read
>about 12.1 volts with the unit running. The problem is it was only charging
>at about 1 amp. When I increased the engine speed it only went up to about
>1.25 amps. It was the same with 3 different batteries. I have it connected
>exactly the same as the wiring diagram on the epicenter site. They have a
>switch on the "R" wire and say that it is difficult to pull the starter rope
>if not switched off when starting the engine but my engine started very
>easily with it connected. I'm sure the belt is not slipping and the pulley
>really can't slip the way it's attached.
>Any suggestions? Bad alternator maybe? Should I have bought the really
>expensive one? At this point I think I could produce more current hooking
>the alternator up to a bicycle and pedaling it.
Compare your connections to the ones given here (reprinted below)
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm
**********************
The 10SI has three terminals (including those with a 1 wire
regulator).
* The large "BATT" terminal which gets connected to your battery
positive. (Or Terminal Post if your vehicle is so equipped).
And a dual terminal connector. (Repair pig-tails for this connector
available at any autoparts store. Or, salvage with alternator if
pulling the alternator from a vehicle).
* The #1 Terminal. (Marked with a "1" on the case)
o This terminal is used to connect to the dash warning
light.
+ For the warning light, a lamp is wired in series
with a switched voltage source. During normal operation the lamp stays
off. If the regulator is damaged, the #1 terminal provides ground, and
the warning lamp will light. Usually.
o This terminal is also active on 1 wire regulator equipped
10SI alternators.
* The #2 Terminal. (Marked with a "2" on the case)
o This terminal is used to excite the 10SI into operation.
(3-wire 10SI)
o It is connected to the battery positive.
+ For simplicity you can connect the #2 connector
pigtail directly to the "batt" terminal on the alternator.
**********************************
Wayne
Posted by Ulysses on July 9, 2005, 2:42 pm
> On Fri, 8 Jul 2005 20:45:57 -0700, "Ulysses"
> >As some of you know I'm working on one of those small engines turning an
> >alternator battery chargers/12 volt generators. I'm using a fairly new
> >Honda GC135 (4 HP) engine, a 5 inch pulley, and a 63 amp alternator
> >(rebuilt, just bought it). It is the same as the one at
> >http://theepicenter.com/tow02077.html (Delco-Remy 1100934 ).
> >
> >The output is 14 volts when not connected to a battery, and is lower
> >depending upon the condition of the battery. For example, one battery
read
> >about 12.1 volts with the unit running. The problem is it was only
charging
> >at about 1 amp. When I increased the engine speed it only went up to
about
> >1.25 amps. It was the same with 3 different batteries. I have it
connected
> >exactly the same as the wiring diagram on the epicenter site. They have
a
> >switch on the "R" wire and say that it is difficult to pull the starter
rope
> >if not switched off when starting the engine but my engine started very
> >easily with it connected. I'm sure the belt is not slipping and the
pulley
> >really can't slip the way it's attached.
> >
> >Any suggestions? Bad alternator maybe? Should I have bought the really
> >expensive one? At this point I think I could produce more current
hooking
> >the alternator up to a bicycle and pedaling it.
> Compare your connections to the ones given here (reprinted below)
> http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm
> **********************
> The 10SI has three terminals (including those with a 1 wire
> regulator).
> * The large "BATT" terminal which gets connected to your battery
> positive. (Or Terminal Post if your vehicle is so equipped).
> And a dual terminal connector. (Repair pig-tails for this connector
> available at any autoparts store. Or, salvage with alternator if
> pulling the alternator from a vehicle).
> * The #1 Terminal. (Marked with a "1" on the case)
> o This terminal is used to connect to the dash warning
> light.
> + For the warning light, a lamp is wired in series
> with a switched voltage source. During normal operation the lamp stays
> off. If the regulator is damaged, the #1 terminal provides ground, and
> the warning lamp will light. Usually.
> o This terminal is also active on 1 wire regulator equipped
> 10SI alternators.
> * The #2 Terminal. (Marked with a "2" on the case)
> o This terminal is used to excite the 10SI into operation.
> (3-wire 10SI)
> o It is connected to the battery positive.
> + For simplicity you can connect the #2 connector
> pigtail directly to the "batt" terminal on the alternator.
> **********************************
> Wayne
Great info Wayne. Thanks! I'm printing it out now.
Well, I woke up this morning and everything seems to be fine now. I am
currently running this computer (Dell 2400 with 15" LCD screen, Inkjet
printer too), a 6 amp 12 volt fan, an answering machine, and a battery
charger charging at 10 amps from a 700 watt Wagan MSW inverter connected
directly to the alternator with the engine running at somewhere around 1500
rpm! No battery or capacitor etc in the system.
The monitor winked out momentarily when the battery charger (Vector Smart
Charger) was done doing it's initial check and restarted. The computer stay
on and connected. Looks like it needs something in the system to buffer the
voltage.
Posted by joe on July 10, 2005, 4:07 am
I am happy to hear things are working for you BUT i do not think it is a
good idea to run your system without a battery.
just my 2 cents
>> On Fri, 8 Jul 2005 20:45:57 -0700, "Ulysses"
>>
>> >As some of you know I'm working on one of those small engines turning an
>> >alternator battery chargers/12 volt generators. I'm using a fairly new
>> >Honda GC135 (4 HP) engine, a 5 inch pulley, and a 63 amp alternator
>> >(rebuilt, just bought it). It is the same as the one at
>> >http://theepicenter.com/tow02077.html (Delco-Remy 1100934 ).
>> >
>> >The output is 14 volts when not connected to a battery, and is lower
>> >depending upon the condition of the battery. For example, one battery
> read
>> >about 12.1 volts with the unit running. The problem is it was only
> charging
>> >at about 1 amp. When I increased the engine speed it only went up to
> about
>> >1.25 amps. It was the same with 3 different batteries. I have it
> connected
>> >exactly the same as the wiring diagram on the epicenter site. They have
> a
>> >switch on the "R" wire and say that it is difficult to pull the starter
> rope
>> >if not switched off when starting the engine but my engine started very
>> >easily with it connected. I'm sure the belt is not slipping and the
> pulley
>> >really can't slip the way it's attached.
>> >
>> >Any suggestions? Bad alternator maybe? Should I have bought the really
>> >expensive one? At this point I think I could produce more current
> hooking
>> >the alternator up to a bicycle and pedaling it.
>>
>> Compare your connections to the ones given here (reprinted below)
>> http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm
>>
>> **********************
>> The 10SI has three terminals (including those with a 1 wire
>> regulator).
>>
>> * The large "BATT" terminal which gets connected to your battery
>> positive. (Or Terminal Post if your vehicle is so equipped).
>>
>> And a dual terminal connector. (Repair pig-tails for this connector
>> available at any autoparts store. Or, salvage with alternator if
>> pulling the alternator from a vehicle).
>>
>> * The #1 Terminal. (Marked with a "1" on the case)
>> o This terminal is used to connect to the dash warning
>> light.
>> + For the warning light, a lamp is wired in series
>> with a switched voltage source. During normal operation the lamp stays
>> off. If the regulator is damaged, the #1 terminal provides ground, and
>> the warning lamp will light. Usually.
>> o This terminal is also active on 1 wire regulator equipped
>> 10SI alternators.
>>
>> * The #2 Terminal. (Marked with a "2" on the case)
>> o This terminal is used to excite the 10SI into operation.
>> (3-wire 10SI)
>> o It is connected to the battery positive.
>> + For simplicity you can connect the #2 connector
>> pigtail directly to the "batt" terminal on the alternator.
>> **********************************
>>
>> Wayne
> Great info Wayne. Thanks! I'm printing it out now.
> Well, I woke up this morning and everything seems to be fine now. I am
> currently running this computer (Dell 2400 with 15" LCD screen, Inkjet
> printer too), a 6 amp 12 volt fan, an answering machine, and a battery
> charger charging at 10 amps from a 700 watt Wagan MSW inverter connected
> directly to the alternator with the engine running at somewhere around
> 1500
> rpm! No battery or capacitor etc in the system.
> The monitor winked out momentarily when the battery charger (Vector Smart
> Charger) was done doing it's initial check and restarted. The computer
> stay
> on and connected. Looks like it needs something in the system to buffer
> the
> voltage.
>
XML site map
>alternator battery chargers/12 volt generators. I'm using a fairly new
>Honda GC135 (4 HP) engine, a 5 inch pulley, and a 63 amp alternator
>(rebuilt, just bought it). It is the same as the one at
>http://theepicenter.com/tow02077.html (Delco-Remy 1100934 ).
>The output is 14 volts when not connected to a battery, and is lower
>depending upon the condition of the battery. For example, one battery read
>about 12.1 volts with the unit running. The problem is it was only charging
>at about 1 amp. When I increased the engine speed it only went up to about
>1.25 amps. It was the same with 3 different batteries. I have it connected
>exactly the same as the wiring diagram on the epicenter site. They have a
>switch on the "R" wire and say that it is difficult to pull the starter rope
>if not switched off when starting the engine but my engine started very
>easily with it connected. I'm sure the belt is not slipping and the pulley
>really can't slip the way it's attached.
>Any suggestions? Bad alternator maybe? Should I have bought the really
>expensive one? At this point I think I could produce more current hooking
>the alternator up to a bicycle and pedaling it.