Posted by vaughn on January 10, 2011, 8:02 pm
>Drill 3/8" holes to define the inside corners of the box and
>use your keyhole saw to cut out the plug in the middle of the
>outline.
If that's still too big of a hole, use one of those plastic "pancake" surface
mount boxes. Then all you need is screw holes and a small hole for the wire.
Vaughn
Posted by Winston on January 10, 2011, 8:48 pm
vaughn wrote:
>> Drill 3/8" holes to define the inside corners of the box and
>> use your keyhole saw to cut out the plug in the middle of the
>> outline.
> If that's still too big of a hole, use one of those plastic "pancake" surface
> mount boxes. Then all you need is screw holes and a small hole for the wire.
But check clearance first!
The timer switch is fairly deep.
<http://www.ccixpress.com/cci/Marketing/Woods_US_Timer_Instructions/TM_59711_InstrMan.pdf>
This might work, but it has been "whomped with the 'ugly stick'":
<http://www.legrand.us/Ortronics/Copper/Copper-Workstation/Surface-Mount-Box/Universal/OR-40300185-13.aspx>
<http://www.legrand.us/Ortronics/Copper/Copper-Workstation/Surface-Mount-Box/Universal/~/media/6A590E1437CF45AE9DCFDBE387764E33.ashx>
--Winston
Posted by Michael A. Terrell on January 10, 2011, 10:35 pm
Winston wrote:
>
> amdx wrote:
>
> (...)
>
> >> This has even lower standby current:
> >> http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productDetails.aspx?SKU299195
> >>
> >> --Winston
> >
> > That's a great idea Winston!
> > Only down side is cutting the hole in the wall
> > for the box.
> > Thanks, Mikek
>
> That's easy.
>
> This is a 'low voltage' use, so you don't need an official stud-
> mounted box in most jurisdictions. Locate studs in the wall
> and outline the location of your new switch between them.
>
> Drill 3/8" holes to define the inside corners of the box and
> use your keyhole saw to cut out the plug in the middle of the
> outline.
>
> Use a respirator and have a vacuum ready. This is dusty business.
For drywall?
Draw the outline and use a utility knife to cut a deep grove along the
lines. Then cut groves to opposite corners. Whack with a hammer and
peel out the scrap. VERY little dust created.
> Fold the tabs of one of these nifty 'box eliminators' into
> the hole and use two sheetrock screws to secure the end of
> the tabs so that they grip the edges of the opening.
>
>
http://www.firefold.com/%2FLow-Voltage-Device-Box-Eliminator-Ring-One-Gang-P1477.aspx
>
> Use your fish tape or fish rod to pull the cable from the opening
> into the wall and attic. Connect both ends of the cable and drop
> a generous 12" service loop of cable into the wall behind the
> switch. Affix your switch and cover plate to your box eliminator.
>
> Use a slightly damp cloth to clean the area of sheetrock dust.
>
> Hey Presto! A clean looking custom installation!
>
> Piece of cake.
>
> --Winston
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
Posted by Winston on January 10, 2011, 11:41 pm
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> Winston wrote:
(...)
>> Use a respirator and have a vacuum ready. This is dusty business.
> For drywall?
> Draw the outline and use a utility knife to cut a deep grove along the
> lines. Then cut groves to opposite corners. Whack with a hammer and
> peel out the scrap. VERY little dust created.
The paper backing would tear out the back side
of the drywall in the corners. It wouldn't be
visible but it would be a weakness in the 'rock
where a crack could form. Filleted corners
reduce the chances of cracking.
--Winston <-- In Earthquake country
Posted by Michael A. Terrell on January 11, 2011, 3:51 am
Winston wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > Winston wrote:
>
> (...)
>
> >> Use a respirator and have a vacuum ready. This is dusty business.
> >
> >
> > For drywall?
> >
> > Draw the outline and use a utility knife to cut a deep grove along the
> > lines. Then cut groves to opposite corners. Whack with a hammer and
> > peel out the scrap. VERY little dust created.
>
> The paper backing would tear out the back side
> of the drywall in the corners. It wouldn't be
> visible but it would be a weakness in the 'rock
> where a crack could form. Filleted corners
> reduce the chances of cracking.
So everyone was wrong for generations? You can't trim the backing
with the knife?
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
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>use your keyhole saw to cut out the plug in the middle of the
>outline.