Posted by mike on December 8, 2012, 6:41 pm
On 12/8/2012 6:12 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Problem with delaying shedding is that it's determined after the fact.
If the heater stalls the generator, you're hozed.
I think a good outcome will be critically dependent on which stuff is on
Keep posting your evaluation results. Interesting topic.
Posted by Vaughn on December 9, 2012, 4:34 pm
On 12/8/2012 9:12 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Another little surprise will be the defrosting heaters in your
frost-free refrigerator. They take the best part of a kilowatt and come
on at unpredictable times.
Posted by danny burstein on December 9, 2012, 4:50 pm
mine is "only" about 500 watts.
- oh, and a similar surprise to anyone using (most of the) newer
natural gas stoves/ovens. They tend to have electric "spark"
ignition for the stove top - which isn't too messy electriclaly.
But... they also tend to use electrically heated "glow plates"
in the oven to ignite the gas. And these stay on the during the
entire "lit up" cycle..
Add in another 500 watts there...
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key
[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]
Posted by Daniel who wants to know on December 10, 2012, 8:21 pm
Yep, we had just such an oven in our gas range when we lived in a trailer
house, HSI wired in series with a thermal gas valve, I hated it because of
how long it took for the thing to heat up or cool down and turn on and off
the burner, and if the HSI burns out the oven is DOA. I much prefer indirect
spark ovens where the spark lights a pilot and the pilot lights the main
burner, they cycle faster and can be lit manually if the power is out or the
Posted by (PeteCresswell) on December 10, 2012, 2:32 pm
Luckily (?) we don't have gas for cooking, but the refrigerator
defrost thing is news to me.
Knowing that will probably save me an hour or so beating my head
against the wall wondering where the extra load is coming from.