Hey do you know your car's alternator only outputs 7-10% while it's running? - Page 6

 

heehee.....you are teaching your master.



You suppose your car doesn't have accessory running?  Boy! you don't know
how much power consumption is going on in your car/truck, let me give you a
few samples:

      Ignition coil = 25 amps =  350 watts
      fuel pump = 24 amps =  336 watts
      EGR blowing fan = 22 amps =  308 watts
      Heat pump, not water-pump 15 amps =  210 watts
      head lights, big-small = 25 amps =  168 watts
      Back lights, Stop light, dash lights 154 watts
      Front cooling fan = 25 amps =  490 watts
      Stereo system = 30 amps =  420 watts
      ECU system = 16 amps =  224 watts
      Anti-lock brake pump 490 watts
      12V bat recharge 15-25 amps 350 watts
      Solenoid Valves, relays combined 84 watts

      Total power consumption on big stuffs = 3584 watts
      In horse power, you spent your fossil fuel about 4.8 hp


You worry about your imaginary over-charge?  There is no such a thing when
a regulator is outputting 7-10% of a total hyped AMPS.  Why advertising
150 amp - 200 amp when you only output 10.5 amp to charge the battery?
There
you go, that's part of the scams.



What is happening in the world is not the same as in a commercial Ad.


What if the regulator's designers were wrong?  Then you pay big prices at
the
pumps, at Electronic shops, at autoshop etc..  That's what you are doing
right now, and that's why you're at the bottom.

Why? because your car needs a good burning power.  Poor power leads to poor
fuel burning.

Do not buy any capacitors to boost your stereo, you need a good source of
power first.  What if I tell you I already eliminated all of the above
power consumption, I use Kinetic Energy instead to run car's electrical
parts?  I bet your ego system will reject my idea as usual because
Americans love to win by pride.

 
Funny, MSD advertises 1 amp per 1000 RPM on a V8 engine for its 6AL ignition
box which is high power compared to a normal Kettering ignition system.  A
V8 doesn't have a very high redline so that would be 5-6 amps maximum WOT
and roughly 1.5 amps cruising @ 60 MPH in overdrive depending on the final
drive ratio.


If my in tank fuel pump used that kind of power the wiring to it would melt
and the gas would boil off because of all the heat from the pump.


EGR doesn't have a fan as it uses the pressure difference between the
exhaust and the intake.  The most power used would be the vacuum solenoid at
a small fraction of an amp.


Huh? all cars with the exception of the Toyota full hybrids use a belt
driven compressor and the electromagnetic clutch uses about 4 amps.


High beams are usually 65 watts each at most so that would be 130 watts.


Depends on the vehicle but probably on the high side too.  An old Mercury
Sable with the bar of lights across the front might use this much.


This one is somewhat realistic but how come 25 ampsI0 watts here while it
only equals 168 for the headlights.


Most aftermarket stereos have a 10 amp fuse so this one is bogus too.  If
you are including the power draw of the outboard amplifiers that is too
variable to guess.  In my case the head unit is fused @ 10 amps and the
amplifier is fused @ 45 amps.


This one could be close to correct but IIRC my ECU fuse is a 15 amp.


No amp number here but the ABS system might have a 30 amp fuse.


Impossible to put a number on this one as the current tapers off as the
battery charges.


This sounds high too.


3584 devided by 14 equals 256 amps.  Wow that is one huge alternator.


3584 devided by 746 does equal 4.8 horsepower but car alternators are only
50-60% effecient on a good day so you need to double that and make it 9.6
horsepower.

I snipped the rest because it is mostly BS.

 Richardson wrote:

Master of what, idiotic theories???  You clearly have no idea how a
voltage regulator works.


Your data is ridiculous.  Funny how my fuel pump fuse is only 3 amps.
One wonders why I don't have to replace the fuse ten times on the way to
the store with it drawing 24 amps like you say.  The ignition doesn't
draw anywhere near 25 amps.  And contrary to your silly information, I
don't have my car stereo cranking out 420 watts.  I like my hearing.

Anti-lock brake only activate when it detects wheel slip, stupid.

And while the battery does need to be re-charged after starting, that
takes very little time usually.  After that it does *not* draw 15-25
amps from the alternator.  If it did that continuously, it wouldn't last
long.  Put a clamp-on ammeter on the battery cable sometime when the
engine has been running a couple of minutes and you'll see what it
*really* draws.

Most of the other loads you've listed are *not* on all the time, so
neither is the alternator output.


You really are clueless.  A 150 amp alternator can put out as much as
150 amps, but it only does so at the regulator's voltage setting and
when turning at the stated speed.  When the battery is charged, the
regulator reduces the field current to maintain a fixed voltage setting.

Turn on a bunch of accessories and as the load increases, the voltage
dips slightly and the regulator increases the field current to maintain
voltage.  So the additional load current is supplied from the alternator
output, not the battery.

You seem deluded into some kind of conspiracy that when a 150 amp
alternator is *not* putting out full, rated current, that it's because
you were cheated.  Learn some basic EE and maybe you'll see that there
is nothing wrong with an alternator that puts out much less current most
of the time.  But I don't think you have the ability to grasp such
high-school level concepts.


I'd say you've confirmed for everyone that you don't know the slightest
thing about what you're saying.

If the regulator design was wrong, your battery would either discharge
over time or boil dry from over-charging.  The lights on your car would
dim and brighten as you changed the engine speed, and burn-out rapidly
from over-voltage when you rev up the engine.

Since most cars don't suffer those problems, we can safely assume the
designers know a heck of a lot more than some nutcase like you.

You try and throw in a term like 'Kinetic Energy', hoping people will be
impressed by this term.  Yet it is clear you don't know what the term
means since it has no real application in an electrical system.  Why
don't you look it up in a reputable reference and learn something.

<plonk>
daestrom

 


He doesn't understand that when the battery is charged and no electrical
circuits are drawing current, the alternator has a low to no magnetic field
which means the power drawn from the crank is minimal to low, increasing
efficiency.  It all sort of works automatically.

 


http://www.greencarcongress.com/2006/09/bmw_introduces_.html

BMW use a bigger alternator and battery which operates at round about 80%
charge. There is a control system which only clutches in the alternator when
the engine is in overrun or during braking.  They "claim" 4% better fuel
economy and more horse power as the alernator is not engaged when the engine
is powering the car.  This is quite simple to do and can be retrofitted on
most cars.

The same can be done with vehicle a/c.  Put a heavy clutch on the a/c
compressor that only engages the compressor when the engine is on overrun or
braking.  An eco switch on the dash would be needed, to use in normal
everyday city/town running and a constant, always on, for sustained hiway
driving.  Then it costs nothing to run the a/c  when in eco mode.   That
could give around 10% better fuel economy.

These would assist in braking and reduce brake pad wear and dust in the
atmosphere.

Now if your ideas of improving the alternator was true the car would reduce
fuel consumption by 25% using the above as well.