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Posted by humphill40 on December 27, 2008, 8:48 pm
 

Since the lower floors were heated it's surprising that it got to 35
in the attic. Anyway, I believe the freeze kit for this model does not
protect HE so we maybe could say that HE is safe to 35 for awhile
anyway tho outside temp is unknown. Rest of unit to inconclusive since
was allways protected when didn't freeze.





Were they all running at same time as paloma?

If I find damper will post info.

Regards;
Milo

Posted by Neon John on December 28, 2008, 12:04 am
 
On Sat, 27 Dec 2008 12:48:18 -0800 (PST), humphill40@yahoo.com wrote:


This building was my mom's hobby building so when she wasn't in it, it was
only heated to about 40, just enough to keep everything inside from freezing.


Yes.  The main use for that stove was in making BBQ sauce and I generally made
almost 25 gallons at a time (three 12 gallon pots). That task was done once or
twice a week and the process took four to five hours.  The Paloma would be
running more or less continuously during that same time.

Understand that this was an old building and was far from airtight.  OTOH,
there was little felt draft (no draft when the vent hood was turned off), even
when standing in a door, and the floors were not cold.

thanks.  I'd like to know of a retail source myself.

John

--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com  <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
I'm going crazy. Wanna come along?


Posted by Bruce in alaska on December 26, 2008, 8:59 pm
 In article
 humphill40@yahoo.com wrote:


My question to you is, "why?"....  I have a cabin in the bush of Alaska,
that only has a Wood Fired Cookstove for all Heating. The firebox is
very small, and not suited to an in-Firebox Water Coil. So I designed a
coil that fits inside the First Section of 6" Flue Pipe, against the
outer edge. It has 6 Turns of 1/2" Refrigeration Copper Pipe and I
brazed on a 1" Square Cooper Sheet on each end, where the Entrance and
Exit Elbows are and use Steel Wool to make an Air tight thru-flue
connection then Brazed on a couple of Cooper Unions, to connect the the
ThermalSyphon Water Tank Piping.

Once the Stove gets up to temp, I can then add Water to the Tank, which
is drained when the cabin isn't being heated, and within a couple of
hours I have plenty of Hot Water for use.  Up in the Peak of the Cabin
is a 200USG Water Tank that we fill using a 12 Vdc Pump from the Creek
out back, via a buried (4 ft down) and insulated waterline. The Domestic
Water System is all inside the Insulated Cabin, except for the 12 Vdc
Pump at the Creek, which is stored inside, untill we need to pump water
into the Tank.  Just before leaving, we drain the whole system with a
Ball Valve, at the lowest point in the System, and then we are ready for
the Next Use. Yep, Hot and Cold Running Water in the bush of Alaska.
Just takes a little smart Engineering and makes the place comfortable,
even for the Womenfolk.

--
Bruce in alaska
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Posted by Jim Wilkins on December 27, 2008, 12:30 am
 
Clever.

I used 1/4" copper tubing to connect the flue pipe to a sensitive
vacuum gauge. After a few years the part within the flue had almost
corroded away. The wood was mostly red oak, a little pine, not all
well dried so sometimes the fire smouldered, which is when I think it
makes the most acetic acid.

If you install capped tees in place of elbows the cap is a removeable
access hatch to the pipe. I use one only for monthly cleaning but it
might be a good flat place to mount the coil inlet and outlet.

Steel wool burns hot and fast.

jw

Posted by humphill40 on December 27, 2008, 7:19 pm
 Greetings Bruce,
 Yeah, that dream fell apart for me when I noticed one day that I had
a single story structure to live in. Otherwise I have too many stories
and wish I could find a button somewhere...........
But even if I did it seems like I would get only 8.7 psi for 20 feet
of lift tho this would not be a deal killer. How high up did you get
your tank?. I thot of building a 35 foot tall platform but don't like
the aesthetics in this particular placement plus long uninsulated pipe
runs aren't too cool. Those aren't deal killers either.

Right now, I use a 12 volt flowlight to move water from a buried tank
to a pressure tank in house. the pump is hung vertically under ground
in a vertical plastic 3 ft. wide culvert next to to cistern. But I
digress.

Of course, one could thermosyphon into a small tank just outside the
wall next to wood stove, and then also hook that tank to a pressure
tank, building an outdoor shower house. but such building would have
to be pretty tall due to a basic principle of thermosyphon.( As I have
read it anyway). The tank hot water inlet coming from stove must be
twice the horizontal distance between stove and tank. So top of tank
need be 12 ft. high if minimum 6 ft. from tank. And in this particular
situation such a structure would get in way and ruin view.

Options which utilize pumps seem problematic cause I'm unsure whether
will handle high heat of wood burn. Higher then solar?? Have you
heard?

On the stove side my stove size is limiting like yours.  I was
imagining that a coil in the pipe would have two downsides.
Obstructing the draft physically, (but maybe not, how wide is your
coil?)  and cooling the smoke so as to diminish draw. So  it's
interesting that it works so well for you. Any comment? Also do the
pipes make noise?

Another issue is  making too much hot water for one or two retired
people. With just a 40-60 gallon tank the ptrv might be popping
several times a day, unless maybe I could size coil just right , but I
can't.

And last, what about the only control on this being the ptr valve? if
it sticks I've
got a great bomb.

Whew! hope you don't regret asking "why not" You're the one with
experience. I'm just postulating, so if you  could comment or put
holes in any of this that would be great.

Milo





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