Posted by Cydrome Leader on January 1, 2009, 11:00 am
I don't recall the capacity, but the last tankless water heater I saw
while small, was a monster. It required its own air intake in addition to
the flue. It actually needed a PVC pipe run outside to provide enough air
for safe combustion, and this was in a house. I'm not sure why it needed
a separate air supply, and a forced air furnace doesn't, but that's how
the unit was designed and had to be installed.
Posted by humphill40 on January 1, 2009, 9:30 pm
How many btu's does said furnace require? Maybe it is designed to be
used in a space that meets requirement above of 50 cu. ft. per 1000
btu's whereas the owner of tankless heater wants to run it in a much
smaller area. You can get even a gas tank heater burning only 30k
btu's in direct vent form, or not. Even if you have the space/air
available one might prefer the direct vent because then you are not
wasting heat in the room by sending it up the vent.
Anyone else with a tankless please chip in. I've just become aware of
another issue, which is that of varying water pressure input like if
you are running off a pressure tank.
Posted by humphill40 on January 1, 2009, 9:51 pm
On Jan 1, 1:30pm, humphil...@yahoo.com wrote:
Also, forgot to mention, with direct vent on a tankless you are less
likely to freeze heater because cold outside air is more reluctant to
descend vent when you avoid the situation of there being higher
pressure out then in. In fact D.V tankless do not put a damper in vent
like is installed on non D.V models.
Posted by andrew on January 2, 2009, 11:15 pm
That's the way it is in my pub!
Imperial units are human sized, feet, acres and miles still mean something
to me but publicly I try to use SI units.
The beer I drink doesn't get drawn through a sparkler so I get full measure
but I recognise the problem.
Posted by Jim Wilkins on January 4, 2009, 3:21 pm
On Jan 3, 11:47am, david.willi...@bayman.org (David Williams) wrote: