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House Electrical Circuit: Leakage? - Page 2

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Posted by mike on January 7, 2013, 7:33 pm
 
On 1/7/2013 7:44 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:

Are we sure that the unit measures watts and not volt-amps?
Still 14 VA is a lot for a disconnected circuit.

Did you actually disconnect the wire?  AKA "where does
the transfer switch get power?

Doorbell? Burglar Alarm? Garage door opener?
turn off the suspect breaker and see if they all still work.

You can break the circuit at any wall plate.
Half-interval search method should get you there in few tries.

Posted by danny burstein on January 7, 2013, 7:39 pm
 
[snip]

any motion detector lights? cable/sateliite tv box?

--
_____________________________________________________
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key
             dannyb@panix.com
[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

Posted by (PeteCresswell) on January 9, 2013, 3:16 pm
 Per mike:

That circuit was one of the two circuits that power the transfer
switch.

Swapped it over to another circuit and the "leakage" went away.

Thanks!...  I never would have thought of that.
--
Pete Cresswell

Posted by T. Keating on January 8, 2013, 4:58 pm
 

Each GFI(outlet or breaker) or Arc-fault breaker will consume a couple of watts
per unit.
(tripped or active will make no difference.)

There is not very much you can do about it, since building code requires them
for certain
locations.  

Other leakage... Clocks on appliances, doorbell, transformer powering
thermostat, power
line modules(x-10), etc..

Posted by Jim Wilkins on January 8, 2013, 5:43 pm
 
Another good point. A single-outlet plug-in GFCI here draws 1.4W.
jsw



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