Posted by scott on August 17, 2005, 8:43 pm
> timbirr@mailcity.com wrote
>
>> Good luck with that saw in the long-run!
>
> It'll be fine.
>
>> In the meantime, you might want to do the research I mentioned
>> earlier and see just what you are doing to your engine.
>
> No thanks, I know its pig ignorant crap.
>
>
It may be crap according to you but I make a living repairing small
engines that belong to people with your belief. Fuel stabilizers may do
some good at preventing oxidation and keeping water dispersed but I cannot
see any way that it keeps the light ends from escaping, especially now that
refiners doctor the reid vapor pressure with anything that will work.
best long term storage: don't.
second best:airtight METAL can with Stabil, Terne (lead) lined if you can
find it, doubtful
I have also had first hand experience with small two cycle engines ruined
or almost ruined by burning fuel so stale the resulting varnish deposits
locked uo the engine. It coats the piston so badly it acts like hot glue,
ok when hot and running, put it into storage and it seizes, forcibly remove
the piston. soak in carb vat for three of four days, free up stuck rings
and it is as good as new (but you paid about $50 to save $5 on fresh fuel.
To you and all the other non believers, Keep on doing it,gas lasts
forever (I need a new car, and fools like you are paying for it.)
Scott
(small engine mechanic, 25 years experience)
Posted by nospam.clare.nce on August 17, 2005, 10:07 pm
On 17 Aug 2005 15:01:13 -0700, "Shaft Drive"
>Daniel J. Stern wrote:
>> Gasoline does deteriorate with age -- the lighter factions evaporate,
>> and its antiknock ("octane") value decreases ....
>Isn't it the other way around?
>I am not a chemist (but I know enough to be dangerous) so I ask this
>question.
>Intuitively, I would think if the lighter factions evaporated, the
>antiknock value would INCREASE (not decrease).
>Why? As I understand it, the anti-knock index of gasoline is a measure
>of the "volatile combustability" (my words) of the fuel. Said another
>way, the octane rating is the result of the strict comparison of the
>spontaneous combustion of the measured gasoline as compared to the
>spontaneous combustion of a known 2,2,4 tri-methyl-pentane percentage
>mixture with heptane).
>Summarized, the more complex the hydrocarbon, the less the spontaneous
>combustion (i.e., knocking), and the higher the octane rating (whether
>it be RON or MON or the AKI average of the two).
>My point is that the "simpler" alkanes "boiled off", so that would
>leave us with the more complex alkanes, alkenes, etc. which ... I would
>think ... would have a HIGHER octane rating (the higher the octane, the
>"worse" the gas burns in a sense).
>QUESTION:
>Wouldn't the octane rating INCREASE (not decrease) as gas "spoils"?
No, compare gasoline to Kerosene or deisel fuel. The gasoline is the
lighter blend - but it has the higher octane.
And propane has much higher native octane than gasoline.
Posted by rick on August 18, 2005, 6:47 pm
wrote:
>M. T. Arnough wrote:
>> Does gasoline really "spoil" in a month as Consumer Reports reports?
>> . Proof at: http://xs.to/xs.php?h=xs42&d 333&f=gasoline.gif
>>
>> Here is the relevant quote from the reputable Consumers' Union:
>> . "Some Craftsman and Troy-Bilt mowers ease starting further
>> . by the use of a fuel cap that adds stabilizer to the gasoline,
>> . thereby enabling the gasoline to last up to a year, rather than
>> . to last just a month or so after which the gas typically spoils."
>>
>> That quote is from the Consumer Reports June 2005 online article titled
>> "Lawn mowers: Making mowing easier."
>>
>> MY QUESTION:
>> Does gasoline really "spoil" after a month? How?
>> What does the "stabilizer" do?
>> My scooter sits idly for more than a month (am I damaging it)?
>Gasoline does have a limited shelf life, though much longer than one
>month (more like a year). The use of stabilizers is common, i.e. Coleman
>stove fuel is essentially unleaded gasoline with a stabilizer added.
>Accumulation of moisture is the biggest issue with leaving gasoline in
>an engine without any use.
>My favorite part of the article is the part about the addition of a cup
>holder making mowing more bearable. I can just see someone deciding on
>which mower to buy based on the presence of a cup holder! It reminds me
>of the listing for a lawn mower on craigslist, 'Lawnmower for sale,
>gasoline powered, red color.'
Beer cooler, satilte TV, maby (MABY) cell phone, Damn id never half
to come in.
Do they sell these at Sears ????
Rick
Rick
Posted by nospam.clare.nce on August 18, 2005, 8:56 pm
wrote:
>>>>> Bullshit.
of fuel,
>Pity that moisture in gasoline is possible even with fresh gasoline.
>Bullshit. And nothing to do with whether the gasoline is fresh or not.
>Bullshit as far as DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE is concerned.
>Bullshit.
>Bullshit.
>Bullshit.
>Still bullshit with engines used in winter and not in summer.
>> I personally have found less problems with winter stored
>> summer equipment than with summer stored winter equipment.
>Sure, badly designed carbs can certainly have more
>of a problem with gum etc when left unused over
>summer, BUT THAT AINT DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE.
>Keep desperately digging, you'll be out in china any day now.
And with all your "bullshit" you'll have the hole filled in behind
you.
Find citations from any industry source to support your contention
it's all "bullshit"
You can't, because you are WRONG.
Posted by nospam.clare.nce on August 18, 2005, 9:05 pm
>Try to run your car without wheels. That
>doesnt mean they are part of the engine.
Different story completely, Einstein. The ENGINE is part of the CAR.
The WHEELS are part of the CAR. The WHEELS are NOT part of the ENGINE
>> You have a credible online cite for this pearl of wisdom?
>Dont need one. Any tank is designed to minimise the evaporation
>of the fuel for various reasons, including minimising pollution of the
>atmosphere due to evaporated fuel, so you dont in fact see any
>significant change in the octane rating over time.
Having a cap on the tank "minimizes" evaporation to some extent - but
MOST consumer equipment has a vented tank. MOST consumer equipment is
more than 5 years old (and has lost the useless, cheap cardboard
gasket the beancounters have mandated as the seal on the cap) and even
with the gasket, significant evaporation occurs when the mower or
whatever is stored in the garden shed out back which ROUTINELY excedes
140 degrees F.
>Gum in the carb aint DAMAGE, fuckwit. Its readily fixable.
Profanity - the attempt of a feable mind to express itself forcibly.
And gum in a diaphram type carb (MUCH more common than a float bowl on
today's equipment) is readily fixable ONLY by replacing the
diaphragms.
>Fat lot of good that will ever do you, you stupid fuckwit plonker.
More evidence of a feeble mind.
Either use civil language or get lost.
XML site map
>
>> Good luck with that saw in the long-run!
>
> It'll be fine.
>
>> In the meantime, you might want to do the research I mentioned
>> earlier and see just what you are doing to your engine.
>
> No thanks, I know its pig ignorant crap.
>
>