Posted by Steve Ackman on September 12, 2007, 4:18 pm
A while back there was a thread about refrigerator
energy usage. Well, my Kill-a-Watt was on the
dehumidifier at the time, so it took a while to get
around to doing ours. This is a side-by-side with
ice and water through the door, thermostat settings
to give -13F in the freezer and 36F in the fridge.
(Fluke 52 reading about midpoint in each compartment)
Model: GE GSL25IFRF BS
KW duration: 311 hours
Energy use: 23.46 kWh
Avg. power: 75.4 watts
Running power: 122 watts or 127 va @ 120.5 VAC
Dataplate rating: 110-127 VAC 11.2 amps
The big question: WHY does the data plate inside
the refrigerator give a rating of 11.2 amps when the
thing draws just over ONE amp when running?
Posted by z on September 12, 2007, 6:22 pm
> A while back there was a thread about refrigerator
> energy usage. Well, my Kill-a-Watt was on the
> dehumidifier at the time, so it took a while to get
> around to doing ours. This is a side-by-side with
> ice and water through the door, thermostat settings
> to give -13F in the freezer and 36F in the fridge.
> (Fluke 52 reading about midpoint in each compartment)
>
> Model: GE GSL25IFRF BS
> KW duration: 311 hours
> Energy use: 23.46 kWh
> Avg. power: 75.4 watts
> Running power: 122 watts or 127 va @ 120.5 VAC
>
> Dataplate rating: 110-127 VAC 11.2 amps
>
> The big question: WHY does the data plate inside
> the refrigerator give a rating of 11.2 amps when the
> thing draws just over ONE amp when running?
>
probably needs that when starting from warm. thats what always kills you
.. getting the damn thing cold to begin with.
Defrost it and then measure and i'll bet you'll see a huge drain
Once its cold it just has to maintain that -- thats where the efficiency
of the insulation etc comes into play.
Posted by stu on September 12, 2007, 7:24 pm
> A while back there was a thread about refrigerator
> energy usage. Well, my Kill-a-Watt was on the
> dehumidifier at the time, so it took a while to get
> around to doing ours. This is a side-by-side with
> ice and water through the door, thermostat settings
> to give -13F in the freezer and 36F in the fridge.
> (Fluke 52 reading about midpoint in each compartment)
> Model: GE GSL25IFRF BS
> KW duration: 311 hours
> Energy use: 23.46 kWh
> Avg. power: 75.4 watts
> Running power: 122 watts or 127 va @ 120.5 VAC
> Dataplate rating: 110-127 VAC 11.2 amps
> The big question: WHY does the data plate inside
> the refrigerator give a rating of 11.2 amps when the
> thing draws just over ONE amp when running?
Does your Kill-a-Watt have a max Watt function?
The 11.2 amps will be the starting surge of the compressor (with any lights
and fans and maybe any heating elements on as well) basically the highest
amperage you could see in the worse case. Like starting the compressor again
after it has only just turned off, bigger A/C units have timers to stop the
compressor turning on within a few minutes of turning off, fridges may have
this I don't know. So the dataplate just lets you know that you shouldn't
have 2 of these fridges on the same 15 amp circuit because if they both
started at the same time they may pop the breaker. Of course they might run
for years before this would happen.
Stuart
Posted by Vaughn Simon on September 12, 2007, 8:03 pm
>>
>> The big question: WHY does the data plate inside
>> the refrigerator give a rating of 11.2 amps when the
>> thing draws just over ONE amp when running?
> Does your Kill-a-Watt have a max Watt function?
> The 11.2 amps will be the starting surge of the compressor (with any lights
> and fans and maybe any heating elements on as well) basically the highest
> amperage you could see in the worse case.
Also, don't forget the defrost heaters. Mine takes nearly 1 KW when it is
in the defrost cycle.
Vaughn
Posted by Neon John on September 12, 2007, 10:55 pm
On Wed, 12 Sep 2007 16:18:55 -0400, Steve Ackman
wrote:
> A while back there was a thread about refrigerator
>energy usage. Well, my Kill-a-Watt was on the
>dehumidifier at the time, so it took a while to get
>around to doing ours. This is a side-by-side with
>ice and water through the door, thermostat settings
>to give -13F in the freezer and 36F in the fridge.
>(Fluke 52 reading about midpoint in each compartment)
>Model: GE GSL25IFRF BS
>KW duration: 311 hours
>Energy use: 23.46 kWh
>Avg. power: 75.4 watts
>Running power: 122 watts or 127 va @ 120.5 VAC
1.81 kWh per day. Not bad for a side-by-side. What year model is this?
> Dataplate rating: 110-127 VAC 11.2 amps
> The big question: WHY does the data plate inside
>the refrigerator give a rating of 11.2 amps when the
>thing draws just over ONE amp when running?
That's probably the draw when the defrost heater is on. 1344 watts seems about
right
for a defrost heater. See if you can catch it on the defrost cycle sometime and
see.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
What do you call 4 Blondes in an Abrams? Air Tank.
> energy usage. Well, my Kill-a-Watt was on the
> dehumidifier at the time, so it took a while to get
> around to doing ours. This is a side-by-side with
> ice and water through the door, thermostat settings
> to give -13F in the freezer and 36F in the fridge.
> (Fluke 52 reading about midpoint in each compartment)
>
> Model: GE GSL25IFRF BS
> KW duration: 311 hours
> Energy use: 23.46 kWh
> Avg. power: 75.4 watts
> Running power: 122 watts or 127 va @ 120.5 VAC
>
> Dataplate rating: 110-127 VAC 11.2 amps
>
> The big question: WHY does the data plate inside
> the refrigerator give a rating of 11.2 amps when the
> thing draws just over ONE amp when running?
>