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Timberline wood stove by Vermont Castings

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Posted by LeBlanc on October 22, 2003, 1:06 pm
This is my first experience with an airtight wood stove.
I would love to talk to someone who has the same or similar model
stove as I do.
I own a Timberline TLWS1, a non-cat airtight made by Timberline Inc.
Lafayette Tn.
The stove is similar to a vermont castings Acclaim Reliant, from what
I can gather from the VC. website.
I have a ton of questions about fireing methods etc. that have been
answered in a general fashion by woodheat.org. However I would like
some more specific answers,opinions from someone who actually knows
the stove.
Many thanks,
D. LeBlanc,
Quebec, Canada

Posted by Eric Tonks on October 22, 2003, 4:22 pm
It seems Timberline is a common stove name. I have a Timberline air tight
wood stove that I have owned for at least 20 years. I believe it was made in
Canada. It is easy to identify, the name Timberline is in relief across the
top of two doors and the bottom 2/3 of the doors has a relief carving of
mountains and evergreen trees.

Is this the one you have?

Posted by LeBlanc on October 23, 2003, 1:21 am
No, my stove is not like that at all. It is  enameled cast iron,
standing on legs, with a clear window in the front. The book that came
with the stove, which I bought 2nd hand, is published in 1997. It came
out of a house that was built in 2000 and I assume the stove was
bought new when the house was built. It is very much like the Aclaim
Reliant model. It is not fancy in any way, except for the beautiful
green enamel.
The thing that has me most puzzled, is the operation of damper. In the
book which came with the stove, it says to close the damper to
restrict the air flow when the stove reaches at least 500 degrees
(stove top themometer reading), however on the themometer, this is
right at the end of clean burn and only 50 degrees away from the
Danger Overfire Zone. This is when you get the secondary compustion
going on, which is what one is striving for, Right? Then why is it so
close to the Danger point?
My woodburning friends all have only one air control on their stoves,
and a baffle plate to restrict air flow. They all tell me to forget
the damper and control the burn from the Primary air control lever in
the front bottom of the stove. I am worried that the flames/gases are
going "right up the chimney" so to speak, causing elevated flu
temperatures which are dangerous.
Maybe I don't know what I am talking about, these are worrys of a
newbie prehaps. That is why I would love to talk to someone who runs a
similar stove.
Thanks for taking the time to read this,
D. LeBlanc

Posted by Harry Chickpea on October 23, 2003, 2:09 am
 leblanc604@hotmail.com (LeBlanc) wrote:

I don't have one of those stoves, but I can say from first hand experience that
a damper on the hot end or in the stovepipe is generally used on colder days to
create eddies and slow the air flow up the chimney/flue.  The colder the day
the stronger the draft.  You can find a fire overheating and consuming fuel too
quickly if the primary air acts like a jet of oxygen into the burning area.
Closing the damper slows that jet of air and also reduces the available oxygen
in the firebox by holding the CO2 and CO in it longer.

Also, if you only use a primary air control on a super cold day the fire will
flare when you open the feed door, which could, under some conditions, ignite
creosote in the flue.  Really strong drafts may even create a whistle as the
draft pulls air through the primary air inlet.

OTOH, If you close down a damper on a warmer day, the stove will smoke and back

I think you are misreading the phrase -

I think it more accurately means -
_If_ the stove gets too hot - up around 500 degrees - you can sometimes close
the damper to help slow the air flow into the stove and slow the burn.  It
doesn't mean that you should overcharge the firebox and crank the stove up that
hot on an ongoing basis.  If this is a cast stove, you have to be careful about
temperature extremes that could crack the castings.

A flue damper is positioned better than any integrated stove damper to slow the
air flow while allowing the heat to radiate from the flue as well as the stove.
Also, a flue damper is less likely to be forgotten when the outside temperature

I think you will soon find that properly gauging the amount and type of wood to
put in the firebox is as much a key to proper burning as controlling the intake
and damper.  Don't overcharge the stove and learning how to use all the
controls will come naturally.

Posted by LeBlanc on October 23, 2003, 4:46 pm
 So, If I understand the jist of what has been written, I should use
the damper before the 500 mark on cold days, and prehaps not at all on
warmer ones. Lets say cold is below 32c (Canada here) and warm is in
the 40s+. I did try to kick it in on a warm day (first or second fire,
I have only had 3 so far!) and indeed it did backpuff. I won't do that
The unit has a top loading door, which the booklet strongly recimends
you use, and I do, to stop that big rush of air, or to keep it at a
This is a trial and error process, but I don't want to ruin my
stove/chimney in the process.
At this point, I cannot imagine being confident enough to get a fire
going and then leave for a few hours like most of my neighbors do.
They assure me this will come.
Also, it was mentioned not to overload the stove. Again, I have a hard
time imagineing "loading" it up. I have never put more than 2 splits
in at a time, the firebox is small IMHO, and to put the directed 5 or
6 logs in it for a Long Burn, Well, again, I just cannot go there yet.
The answers I have gotten here have helped, but anyone who has the
same stove, or people with good advice are solicited, even if you
think it is repetative. I seem to be a slow learner when it comes to
mastering fire.
D. LeBlanc

hchickpeaREMOVEME@hotmail.com (Harry Chickpea) wrote in message

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