Posted by m II on June 26, 2010, 6:55 pm
Not to pick nits....but...
The temperature in a room with a fridge or freezer in it will rise.
That means more energy expended to keep the fridge contents cool which
makes the room warmer yet...etc.
It's a good thing kids contribute to entropy by leaving room doors open.
Posted by vaughn on June 26, 2010, 8:29 pm
First, you haven't added anything material to the conversation yet, so you
certainly are not guilty of "picking nits". Second, I did not dispute that the
temperature in the room will rise (until the AC comes on and pumps the heat out)
The freezers will emit waste heat from the motors.
Posted by amdx on June 25, 2010, 4:05 pm
I have 25 cu ft freezers, 12 x 25 = 300 cu ft of storage. A 8 x 8 x 7
is 448 cu ft but room to walk 2 x 8 x 7 = is 112 cu ft so 448 - 112 = 336
Take out another 20cu ft for the evaporator and we are down to 316 cu ft.
So very comparable cubic feet.
Cost, I think last 6 were $50 each. $,400 again comparable.
Posted by GregS on June 25, 2010, 4:25 pm
40 years ago I bought a full sized Sears for $50. It still
worked whn I gave it away 5 years ago. Watch out if the condensor
coils wrap around the side as you need space to breath. On that
unit the coils went around the perimeter, no fans.
Posted by Leo Lichtman on June 24, 2010, 8:22 pm
"amdx" (clip) there is some thought about
Before I installed a proper transfer switch, I used a kludge that worked
well, and didn't cost much. I inserted a 4 connector twistlock connector
pair into the line from my meter to the house. I then ran a line from my
generator to the spot where this twistlock pair is located. The line from
the generator was wired with a female connector that matches the male
connector running to my house. In a power outage, I go out into the garage
and unplug from the utility, and plug into my generator. This is simple,
completely eliminates any possibility of hooking the generator to the
incoming power line, and costs a lot less that a heavy double-throw switch.