Posted by Ulysses on June 7, 2009, 2:24 pm
> >
> >> On Thu, 4 Jun 2009 07:21:20 -0700, "Ulysses"
> >>
> >>
> >> >Now that you mention it the belt that held up the longest for me was a
> >> >notched automotive belt. The most I run it is at about 2.8kW but I
put
> > on a
> >> >hundred hours in a couple of months or less. I figured mine was
getting
> >> >glazed due to slippage but there seems to be a llimit on how tight it
> >> >can
> >> >be. I've been running it a little too tight probably--I can move the
> > belt
> >> >by hand about 3/8."
> >>
> >> If you're going to redo it, you could use B size. Good selection of
> >> affordable belts and pulleys here
> >>
> >
http://www.surpluscenter.com/powerTrans.asp?UID 09060409443681&catname=powerTrans.
> >>
> >> Wayne
> >
> > I'm amazed at the prices on that site. I spent a long time searching
for
> > pulleys and never found it. I really like the idea of going with the B
> > size. For the moment, working with what I have on hand, I'm trying a
> > longer
> > belt and trying to fashion some sort of tensioner/idler pulley so it
will
> > maintain the same amount of tension at all times (hopefully). The
little
> > bit that I've read about belt-drive alternators said to use a short
belt.
> >
> >
> I've delt with them for many years now, and consider them
> as a tinkerer's toy shop. You will probably enjoy getting their
> catalog.
> I find this works out to be a more practical approach for
> direct coupling:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID 09060611321224&catname=powerTrans&keyword=PSF3
Are you refering to a specific type of coupler? This link took me to
something like five pages of couplers.
> Luck;
> Ken
Posted by Ken Maltby on June 7, 2009, 4:44 pm
>>
>> >
>> >> On Thu, 4 Jun 2009 07:21:20 -0700, "Ulysses"
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> >Now that you mention it the belt that held up the longest for me was
>> >> >a
>> >> >notched automotive belt. The most I run it is at about 2.8kW but I
> put
>> > on a
>> >> >hundred hours in a couple of months or less. I figured mine was
> getting
>> >> >glazed due to slippage but there seems to be a llimit on how tight it
>> >> >can
>> >> >be. I've been running it a little too tight probably--I can move the
>> > belt
>> >> >by hand about 3/8."
>> >>
>> >> If you're going to redo it, you could use B size. Good selection of
>> >> affordable belts and pulleys here
>> >>
>> >
>
http://www.surpluscenter.com/powerTrans.asp?UID 09060409443681&catname=powerTrans.
>> >>
>> >> Wayne
>> >
>> > I'm amazed at the prices on that site. I spent a long time searching
> for
>> > pulleys and never found it. I really like the idea of going with the B
>> > size. For the moment, working with what I have on hand, I'm trying a
>> > longer
>> > belt and trying to fashion some sort of tensioner/idler pulley so it
> will
>> > maintain the same amount of tension at all times (hopefully). The
> little
>> > bit that I've read about belt-drive alternators said to use a short
> belt.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> I've delt with them for many years now, and consider them
>> as a tinkerer's toy shop. You will probably enjoy getting their
>> catalog.
>>
>> I find this works out to be a more practical approach for
>> direct coupling:
>>
>
http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID 09060611321224&catname=powerTrans&keyword=PSF3
> Are you refering to a specific type of coupler? This link took me to
> something like five pages of couplers.
Right there are five pages of that kind of direct coupler
(the three piece kind), just to cover the common shaft
sizes. There are three pages of "1 Piece Solid Couplers",
and a single page of "Chain Couplers" (but I don't know
how many pages of Sprockets to build a chain based
power transmission setup.)
You might want to check out their "Tech Help" page, it
has a number of handy calculators and formula tables for;
Pneumatics, Electrical, Engines, Hydraulics, and
Mechanical.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/techhelp.asp?UID 09060611321224&catname=
Direct coupling requires counterrotating shafts, but can be
the more trouble free approach. The Three piece coupler
lets you connect to slightly different shaft types and sizes.
Each half coupler can be for a different kind of shaft. The
"spider" part in the middle allows for some missallinement
and provides some slight shock resistance/tolerance. It is
also well adapted to the shaft speeds involved. No belt
sliping or chain maintance/lubrication required.
Luck;
Ken
Posted by Ulysses on June 9, 2009, 3:14 pm
> >
> >>
> >> >
> >> >> On Thu, 4 Jun 2009 07:21:20 -0700, "Ulysses"
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> >Now that you mention it the belt that held up the longest for me
was
> >> >> >a
> >> >> >notched automotive belt. The most I run it is at about 2.8kW but I
> > put
> >> > on a
> >> >> >hundred hours in a couple of months or less. I figured mine was
> > getting
> >> >> >glazed due to slippage but there seems to be a llimit on how tight
it
> >> >> >can
> >> >> >be. I've been running it a little too tight probably--I can move
the
> >> > belt
> >> >> >by hand about 3/8."
> >> >>
> >> >> If you're going to redo it, you could use B size. Good selection of
> >> >> affordable belts and pulleys here
> >> >>
> >> >
> >
http://www.surpluscenter.com/powerTrans.asp?UID 09060409443681&catname=powerTrans.
> >> >>
> >> >> Wayne
> >> >
> >> > I'm amazed at the prices on that site. I spent a long time searching
> > for
> >> > pulleys and never found it. I really like the idea of going with the
B
> >> > size. For the moment, working with what I have on hand, I'm trying a
> >> > longer
> >> > belt and trying to fashion some sort of tensioner/idler pulley so it
> > will
> >> > maintain the same amount of tension at all times (hopefully). The
> > little
> >> > bit that I've read about belt-drive alternators said to use a short
> > belt.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> I've delt with them for many years now, and consider them
> >> as a tinkerer's toy shop. You will probably enjoy getting their
> >> catalog.
> >>
> >> I find this works out to be a more practical approach for
> >> direct coupling:
> >>
> >
http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID 09060611321224&catname=powerTrans&keyword=PSF3
> >
> > Are you refering to a specific type of coupler? This link took me to
> > something like five pages of couplers.
> >
> Right there are five pages of that kind of direct coupler
> (the three piece kind), just to cover the common shaft
> sizes. There are three pages of "1 Piece Solid Couplers",
> and a single page of "Chain Couplers" (but I don't know
> how many pages of Sprockets to build a chain based
> power transmission setup.)
> You might want to check out their "Tech Help" page, it
> has a number of handy calculators and formula tables for;
> Pneumatics, Electrical, Engines, Hydraulics, and
> Mechanical.
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/techhelp.asp?UID 09060611321224&catname=
> Direct coupling requires counterrotating shafts, but can be
> the more trouble free approach. The Three piece coupler
> lets you connect to slightly different shaft types and sizes.
> Each half coupler can be for a different kind of shaft. The
> "spider" part in the middle allows for some missallinement
> and provides some slight shock resistance/tolerance. It is
> also well adapted to the shaft speeds involved. No belt
> sliping or chain maintance/lubrication required.
> Luck;
> Ken
Neon John and others have complained about the spider wearing out rather
quickly due to the sudden jolt of power going to the field coil but I think
I can avoid that by starting the engine with the field already excited and
possibly as low rpms--I've been doing this with no problem with belt-drive,
at least as far as getting the engine started goes. A solid coupler might
require more precisgn than I can muster up. One big problem seems to be
finding a coupler that will fit onto a Delco alternator. I have only found
one source and I'm having a little trouble having faith in that particular
organization mainly due to the fact that they are selling/promoting mounting
brackets and designs that all have the cooling fan for the alternator
running backwards and I didn't find any mention of the fact or any
suggestions for installing a counter-clockwise cooling fan. Another article
I found was for a jetty-fishing web site and the "more information" at the
bottom of the page was not there.
Another problem seems to be finding, for the time being, a pulley for the
Delco that is for a 1/2" (A) belt. I only found one so far on eBay and they
wanted $0 plus shipping and I'm not even sure what they are selling. Now
I'm wondering if my problems might disappear if I simply use a 3/8" belt
instead of 1/2". Will driving a 3/8" belt in a 1/2" pulley ruin the belt
quickly? I have three trucks and they all use a 3/8" belt on the
alternator. Except the Nissan, but I think Pep Boys sold me the wrong belt
and it seems to have too much wear on it for it's age.
BTW if you read my question about single-phase field coils that is for a
different project--I have hopes of building two battery chargers that are
direct-drive.
Posted by Ken Maltby on June 9, 2009, 4:05 pm
>> Direct coupling requires counterrotating shafts, but can be
>> the more trouble free approach. The Three piece coupler
>> lets you connect to slightly different shaft types and sizes.
>> Each half coupler can be for a different kind of shaft. The
>> "spider" part in the middle allows for some missallinement
>> and provides some slight shock resistance/tolerance. It is
>> also well adapted to the shaft speeds involved. No belt
>> sliping or chain maintance/lubrication required.
>>
>>
>> Luck;
>> Ken
>>
>>
> Neon John and others have complained about the spider wearing out rather
> quickly due to the sudden jolt of power going to the field coil but I
> think
> I can avoid that by starting the engine with the field already excited and
> possibly as low rpms--I've been doing this with no problem with
> belt-drive,
> at least as far as getting the engine started goes.
That sounds like it might prevent such wear and tear, but the
spider part is available in different compositions. It may be that
the inserts for the a coupling set rated for your needs (max torque,
max RPM, HP@RPM, ect...) won't experience the problem that
others have encountered.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/108.pdf
>A solid coupler might
> require more precisgn than I can muster up. One big problem seems to be
> finding a coupler that will fit onto a Delco alternator.
You can get an "unfinished"/"unbored" coupler half for most series and
perhaps a Delco shop would bore it out for you. You might first try
contacting Surplus Center, they may very well have encountered this
issue before, and have a solution. They appear to have a number of
sizes available including Metric ones.
An example listing;
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID 09060910313047&item=1-2052&catname=powerTrans
Luck;
Ken
Posted by Ulysses on June 10, 2009, 2:27 pm
> >
> >> Direct coupling requires counterrotating shafts, but can be
> >> the more trouble free approach. The Three piece coupler
> >> lets you connect to slightly different shaft types and sizes.
> >> Each half coupler can be for a different kind of shaft. The
> >> "spider" part in the middle allows for some missallinement
> >> and provides some slight shock resistance/tolerance. It is
> >> also well adapted to the shaft speeds involved. No belt
> >> sliping or chain maintance/lubrication required.
> >>
> >>
> >> Luck;
> >> Ken
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Neon John and others have complained about the spider wearing out rather
> > quickly due to the sudden jolt of power going to the field coil but I
> > think
> > I can avoid that by starting the engine with the field already excited
and
> > possibly as low rpms--I've been doing this with no problem with
> > belt-drive,
> > at least as far as getting the engine started goes.
> That sounds like it might prevent such wear and tear, but the
> spider part is available in different compositions. It may be that
> the inserts for the a coupling set rated for your needs (max torque,
> max RPM, HP@RPM, ect...) won't experience the problem that
> others have encountered.
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/108.pdf
Ah. So far the sites that I looked at had only one spider available.
> >A solid coupler might
> > require more precisgn than I can muster up. One big problem seems to be
> > finding a coupler that will fit onto a Delco alternator.
> You can get an "unfinished"/"unbored" coupler half for most series and
> perhaps a Delco shop would bore it out for you. You might first try
> contacting Surplus Center, they may very well have encountered this
> issue before, and have a solution. They appear to have a number of
> sizes available including Metric ones.
Thanks. I emailed Wind Blue and asked them about this but so far got no
response. I thought they would be more likely than others to have such a
thing because they sell stator coils wound for higher voltage at low rpms.
I'm not certain but I think a stock stator for a 12 volt Delco alternator
won't even get excited until it reaches something like 3000 rpm. This does
not really make sense to me because cars seem to be charging the batteries
at idle or just above. Maybe they need to get excited first and then can
perform at a slower pace.
> An example listing;
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID 09060910313047&item=1-2052&catname=powerTrans
Thanks. I'll take a look.
> Luck;
> Ken
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> >> On Thu, 4 Jun 2009 07:21:20 -0700, "Ulysses"
> >>
> >>
> >> >Now that you mention it the belt that held up the longest for me was a
> >> >notched automotive belt. The most I run it is at about 2.8kW but I
put
> > on a
> >> >hundred hours in a couple of months or less. I figured mine was