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What's Wrong with my Diodes? - Page 14

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Posted by z on June 10, 2009, 12:43 am
 


Yeah those guys have the thread right it spun right on.  The only issue
is that with the spider cupler you gotta use it in a horizontal
application  Thats why I had to drill and tap it so I could connect both
sides with some stainless bolts as it would pull apart in the virtical
method I was using.  But no biggie to tap and drill it




Talking to my mechanic buddy he had a pully or two that could work work
-- not quite 1/2 but looked like 5/8ths maybe -- but he brought up an
interesting point: he said 'why would you use a notched pully??'

He was saying that the notched pully requires more friction and you'd
lose power by using them.  He was working on a mazda b3000 pickup at the
time and pointed out the pully system on that and said that no modern
cars use the old notch pullies anymore besause of this reason.

The belt has to compress down in to the notch before it has the full
contact with the pully, so no matter what you are always fighting tension
and the force required to fully engauge the pully before the belt can
find full traction.  Its all about surface area on the bottom of the belt
grabbing the pully and the notched method with 1/2 or so of the belt
grabbing on the sides of the notch is a waste.

He was wondering why you couldn't use a tooth belt or flat belt and
forget about the notched pully and get a much more efficient method to
transfer that power.

But we were just standing around drinking a few beers at the end of a
day.. translating his thoughts on it ..

best of luck

-zachary

Posted by Ulysses on June 10, 2009, 2:41 pm
 


I'm going to have to ponder that for a while--maybe a long while.  I don't
understand why it can be used horizontally but not vertically.


I was wondering that too.  I'll bet it would be easy to find a pulley for
the alternator but I'm not so sure about the engine.  And then you would
have to find a belt that isn't 80 inches long.  I haven't looked yet but I
suspect the belt would be difficult to locate.  Then there's the tensioner
pulley--that could possibly make the whole project work very smoothly, once
you figure out how to install it.



Posted by z on June 4, 2009, 12:20 am
 The epicenter of Eugene has a lot of shaft couplers and pully kits etc you
might want to check out

http://theepicenter.com/power_sources_generators_and_batteries.html

I got some stuff for the hydro there.. good people.  

Posted by Ulysses on June 4, 2009, 2:27 pm
 

Thanks z.  That's no doubt the place where I first got info on the "homemade
generator" as they call it.  I looked at their couplers recently but I'll
look again.  I have some doubts about the LoveJoy couplers for my purposes
just as Neon John pointed out.

Which place did you get your PMA from, the Blue Wind place or the hydrogen
appliance place?  I'm going to ask them if they make a PMA specifically
designed to go directly onto an engine shaft, either tapered or keyed.



Posted by z on June 4, 2009, 3:07 pm
 

I went with windblue.  At the time they were $00 w/free shipping and I'd
read better reviews of windblue.  Dealing with them was great .. and the
sucker keeps on spinning so i've got no complaints.

I don't know if they've got anything but the delco SI type gen. Could
always ask. You know i get questions from the site about where to find a
tap that fits that idiotic thread pitch for the delco/GM alternator and I
never have found one.  One college student was doing a thesis (building a
little power plant) and was looking.  I told him to let me know if he
finds one.  The upshot is I asked wind blue to try to find one and sell
it on their site -- so far not I guess.  Seems rediculous that so many
home brew power folk use those type gens but the taps are seemingly non-
existent. The Epicenter guys have to get those direct drive shaft
couplers machined somewhere that has the pitch figured out. Frustrating

good luck

-zachary

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