Hybrid Car – More Fun with Less Gas

conversion of freezer to refrigerator - Page 4

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Posted by BradGuth on January 31, 2009, 2:15 am

Most residential refrigerators use R22 or something quite similar and
usually spendy as hell.  However even good old energy efficient R12
was good enough when the suction side goes a little negative.  The key
is having crystal dry insulation and keeping the frost off the
evaporator by way of automatic moisture/defrosting removal of every
last drop of h2o (the dryer the better).

It is worth it if what you need is primarily a refrigerator, and
perhaps best if it's a chest type of freezer that gets made into that
energy efficient refrigerator, as you'll save a rather considerable
amount of energy.  I'd consider topping off the chest freezer with a
touch of CO2, as you'd be roughly at 10% the annual energy draw of a
conventional refrigerator.  The extra bonus comes from not adding
appliance heat into an already toasty home, although if you happen to
live in a cold climate is where none of this makes any sense.

 ~ BG

Posted by vaughn on January 31, 2009, 12:45 pm

You probably know this, but just in case some reader gets the wrong idea:

Actually, any gas can be used as a refrigerant, there is no particular need
for a phase change in the cycle, but the entire system must always be
designed for the refrigerant that is used.  The condensor coil would need to
be much larger (and/or have a much higher mass flow rate) and the tubing
would need to be larger in any system that does not use a liquid phase.  Of
course, in that case the "condensor" will also need a different name.


Posted by Maximust on January 31, 2009, 7:20 pm
 jan siepelstad wrote:

You would use less energy if you converted a chest freezer rather than an
upright. Everytime you open that door on your upright, all that cold air falls
out. If you have a chest freezer, you open the door and the air stays put. By
the way, this freezer conversion is used a lot by people living off the grid
and is better than a propane gas refrigerator.

Posted by danny burstein on January 31, 2009, 8:09 pm

Also... make sure to use a "manual defrost" unit. An automatic one
will kick in some pretty power hungry heaters (the one on my
refrigerator/freezer pulls 400 watts) for some pre-defined time,
and that number is fixed at the factory. You might only ""need",
so to speak, 2 minutes of defrost every 48 hours, but it had
to be designe for the worst case scenario.

(It's only in the past few years that we've started to see
some intelligence/feedback on defrosters).

Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key
[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

Posted by Mauried on January 31, 2009, 10:17 pm
 On Sat, 31 Jan 2009 20:09:46 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein

Your fridge must be either poorly designed or its got a faulty defrost
Most self defrosting fridges these days will only defrost for as long
as it takes to pull the evaporator up to around 2-4C, ie until all the
ice is melted, they dont work on time.

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