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Posted by Morris Dovey on April 1, 2009, 3:05 pm
 
Morris Dovey wrote:


It wasn't a "Micro-Flame" - it was a Smith Equipment 23-1003B "Little
Torch" and they're still in production.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Posted by Richard W. on April 1, 2009, 5:19 pm
 


Does the lead free solder for copper water pipe contain so silver in it?

Richard W.



Posted by Ken Maltby on April 2, 2009, 4:12 am
 

  They usually have a silver base, but aren't exactually in the
"Hard Solder" catagory.  What I've seen at Home Depot is
~5%  and it was for ~430F

http://ajh-knives.com/soldering.html

  Still, it does work on copper.

  Silver "soldering"  is normally more a form of brazing than
the soldering you do with electronics.  You could look at
the silver bearing plumbing solder as a lower temp. "semi-
hard" soldering.  (I suspose the plumbers would object to
that discription.)

  There are many formallations of silver solder or hard solder,
to cover a wider temp. range. and to be sutited to different
applications, including electronic and electrical.

Luck;
    Ken



Posted by Richard W. on April 1, 2009, 5:05 pm
 

I have seen acid core solder eat through copper in a few years. My dad
didn't like the idea of wire nuts doing a remodel. So he soldered the wires
in the crawl space over the ceiling. I think it was 4about 4 years later the
light in the room wouldn't go on. He found the connection eaten through.

  I like the 1/32 diameter rosin core electrical solder. I use the iron to
heat the wires. Then touch the solder on the wire, when the solder melts on
the wire. The wires are hot enough to solder. Then continue to go along the
connection using the wire to melt the solder. The solder just flows great
over the wires. If you are soldering where you don't have electrical power,
get one of those old time solder irons with the big copper head. Heat it
with a torch and then proceed the same way as above.

  I don't seem to be able to get good results using a propane torch to heat
the wires, because there is too much heat and when the small wires start to
glow they get a scale on the outside of the wire that the solder won't stick
to.

I don't ever melt the solder on the iron and let it drip it on the wires,
because the wires are not hot enough to accept the solder. You have to have
the wires hot enough to melt solder for the solder to bond to the wire.

Richard W.



Posted by Curbie on April 1, 2009, 7:01 pm
 
z,


Practice, practice, practice.

Please keep me updated as to how it goes, I would love play with a
non-functional commercial panel if run across one using the book as a
guide. Let me know if you kick up any errors or omissions.

I don't know if you're interested in solar tracking it is supposed to
add 10 to 20% more efficiency (single/double axis dependent).  But for
gambling on the advice of an ASCII name I'll send some VBA code I
wrote (no interface to a controller), if you want it.


You're welcome.

Curbie



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