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home electricity from the wind - Page 3

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Posted by Curbie on February 27, 2009, 3:02 am

Thanks for your efforts in explaining this, I really appreciate it!

I agree with your assessment on:

You probably guessed that this is the reason behind the question you
answered, without DOD to cycle information I can't calculate total
(life time) amp-hours, which in turn I need for any meaningful cost
annalist. I have a spreadsheet (a column of which is posted somewhere
in this thread) which I need to update for cost annalist using your
numbers and revisiting the manufactures spec sheets for DOD cycles.

I didn't keep all of their spec sheets and from the ones I did, only
Northern Energy publishes cycles for DOD for its "Solar One". I should
be able to reverse the equations (for the others) to find DOD based on
their published cycles & amp-hours. I'll e-mail it to you when I'm
finished updating, if you want it, it's the least I can't do for all
your help. But that'll be in a few days at least, I haven't even
started the updated due to trying to win the "Moron of the Month"
award for tower forces. I compiled everything in that thread into one
place, re-read it, took two steps back, and started from scratch. I'll
"get it" eventually, I always do, just takes more time than others
slow (or through) and tenacious has done pretty well for me so far.

Thanks again for all your help, I owe you a couple so don't hesitate
to ask.


Posted by harry on February 23, 2009, 9:05 pm

There is no such thing as a "DC machine/motor/generator". They are all
AC.  Some are fitted with a mechanical rectifier (called a commutator)
so enabling them to work in a DC system.
To be efficient, there needs to be as few conversions (AC/DC &
voltage) as possible.
So  your power is generated as AC.  This needs to be converted to the
voltage you need and finally to DC if that's what you require.
That said there are numerous practical problems.
Stablising the voltage and frequency being the worst.
The simplest way forward is to steal automobile technology, ie to lift
the whole system from a motor car [alternator, regulator (if not
incorporated) and battery]
The battery stablises the system ie prevents wild swings in voltage
due to wind gusts.  Also the "flywheel effect" of your wind rotor
smooths out gusts. Obviously the heavier it is the better from this
point of veiw. (Though heavy rotors have an adverse effect in light
 If you want AC you will need to buy an inverter.
There is an innate problem with electronic inverters & that is it's
really difficult to design one that makes a sinusiodal wave.  (Square
and sawtooth waves are really hated by all electrical appliances) This
means they are expensive.

Even more expensive is an inverter that ups the voltage and more $
again is one that synchonises to the mains for the purpose of running
in parallel.

Which brings the subject of "asynchronous generators"  This is just an
induction motor that is first parallelled up to the mains supply &
then driven a bit faster. It wont work without the mains supply being
there.  This is the the simplest way to do it. It's possible your
local power company might not like such devices. (But then they'd need
to find out)
You need to be very sure the thing is running super synchronous (ie
generating)and not sub synchronous (ie as a motor)  There needs to be
a gizmo to shut down if there is not enough wind to prevent this and
also if there's too much wind which could bugger up your motor/
generator. there's lots of stuff on the internet about asynchronous
generators.  And quite a bit of BS too.

Posted by Curly on February 24, 2009, 4:18 pm

Forget the batteries.

The problem of storing power from home wind has been solved for a long
time but it requires hilly land, two ponds, a pump and a water-powered
generator.  One pond downhill, the other as high up the hell as you can.  
Pump the water uphill ding generation and generate power hen you let it
flow down to the lower pond.

Posted by Curbie on February 24, 2009, 4:45 pm
 On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 16:18:15 +0000 (UTC), Curly@surmudgeon.tv wrote:

Love the idea of Hydro Batteries but terrain is a problem where I’m
planning to move.
Even studied the idea of building underground vertical cisterns, still
trying to make it cost effective.

Reservoir Length    18    Feet
Reservoir Width        18    Feet
Reservoir Height        8    Feet
Backup Time        48    Hours
Head            50    Feet
Reservoir        19390    Gallons
Flow            6.7329    GPM
PSI            21.65    PSI
Factor            10    
Watts            3366    Watts
Outside Diameter    7    Inches
Inside Diameter        12    Inches
Inside Radius        6    Inches
Inside Surface Area    21    Ft.^2
Volume            67858    In.^3
Cross Sectional Area     113    In.^2
1 Horsepower (HP)    746    Watts
1 Watt (w)        0.001340483    HP
1 Foot Head (H)        0.433    PSI
1 PSI (PSI)        2.309468822    Feet
1 Cubic Feet per Second (CFS)    449    GPM
1 Gallon Per Mintute (GPM)    0.002227171    CFS
1 Cubic Foot of Water    7.481    Gallons
1 Gallon of Water    0.133671969    Ft.^3

Good suggestion can't make it cost effective, yet.


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