Posted by Bob F on May 21, 2008, 10:02 pm
> Too complicated. Use a toilet tank flapper valve with a string tied to it.
> Tie a float on the other end of the string. When the pond empties far enough,
> the flapper will automatically close. When it fills far enough, the float
> will pull on the string and open the flapper again. The only hard part will be
> to figure out how to keep the string from getting caught in the flapper.
A toilet flapper valve won't handle the vaccume of this usage - the float will
collapse.
It needs to be something a little more solid.
Posted by Bob F on May 21, 2008, 10:00 pm
>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> My brother scored a used xantrex prosine 1000 and I just plumbed
>>>>>> it into the hydro system.. man its nice. Clean pure sine waves
>>>>>> and its (so far) waaay more efficient than the last crapola
>>>>>> inverter I had.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Now i'm looking for a remote panel so I can watch it from in the
>>>>>> house -- the remote panels seem to only have a 25 foot cable..
>>>>>> anyone had success making a longer cable? Like 100 feet? I'd
>>>>>> guess its some kind of simple cross over but guessing isn't the
>>>>>> same as knowing har har har
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -z
>>>>>
>>>>> I went back and read most of your old posts but didn't find what I
>>>>> was looking for. What size pipe are you using to run your hydro?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It starts as 2 inch and necks down to 1-1/2 .. then splits into 1
>>>> inchers and then to 3/4ths and then to 1/8th inch nozzels.
>>>>
>>>> I have plans to change to 1 inch all the way to the nozzels
>>>> (skipping the 3/4th inch step down) but haven't got all the parts I
>>>> need yet.
>>>>
>>>
>>> another thing I need to do is make an open valve before it hits the
>>> hydro.. i ran the pond dry during the last heat wave .. didn't have
>>> an easy way to know if the intake to the pond was still running.
>>>
>>> so I lost siphon and man.. 2 inch and 1-1/2 inch pipe with air
>>> pockets can make a hell of a blast .. was worried that my whole
>>> system was going to shake apart. Need a way to bleed out the air
>>> when I need a restart after drawing down the pond.. or some kind of
>>> super smart valve that will shut off when it runs itself out of
>>> water.
>>
>> Take a look at how toilet flush valves work, as a possibility for a
>> pond level shutoff. Or, get a pump float switch for the pond level
>> detection, and perhaps use sprinkler valves at the bottom end,
>> although they might make troublesome turbulence.
> Yeah I have a scheme in mind for that.. the reverse toilet idea. Where
> it keeps a valve open till the pond is empty, and then keeps it closed
> till the pond is full again.
> Its kind of involving various floats and such .. dono. Haven't really
> hit on a slick solution that doesn't involve some pretty rube goldberg
> contraptions :)
A float can close a valve when the water gets too low. And open it when the
water rises. It can be very sinple.
> Right now I just have the pipe shoved into the pond with a filter on it..
> come summer the plan is to put in a more permanent intake .. when its hot
> and I feel like standing around in the water all day ;)
> Was thinking some kind of murcury switch on a float anchored to the side
> of the pond, where if the water level drops past a certain point it would
> trigger the valve to shut off .. probably need a 12 volt valve that I
> could maybe rig a solar panel to keep charged. Heck if I have a 12 volt
> battery up there I could use that to run a video camera too and see if
> that bear is up there, or if the Elk are around.
Look at sump pump float switches. Simple, reliable, and cheap ($20?)
Posted by tim on May 22, 2008, 1:09 am
>
>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> My brother scored a used xantrex prosine 1000 and I just
>>>>>> plumbed it into the hydro system.. man its nice. Clean
>>>>>> pure sine waves and its (so far) waaay more efficient than
>>>>>> the last crapola inverter I had.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Now i'm looking for a remote panel so I can watch it from
>>>>>> in the house -- the remote panels seem to only have a 25
>>>>>> foot cable.. anyone had success making a longer cable?
>>>>>> Like 100 feet? I'd guess its some kind of simple cross
>>>>>> over but guessing isn't the same as knowing har har har
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -z
>>>>>
>>>>> I went back and read most of your old posts but didn't find
>>>>> what I was looking for. What size pipe are you using to run
>>>>> your hydro?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It starts as 2 inch and necks down to 1-1/2 .. then splits
>>>> into 1 inchers and then to 3/4ths and then to 1/8th inch
>>>> nozzels.
>>>>
>>>> I have plans to change to 1 inch all the way to the nozzels
>>>> (skipping the 3/4th inch step down) but haven't got all the
>>>> parts I need yet.
>>>>
>>>
>>> another thing I need to do is make an open valve before it
>>> hits the hydro.. i ran the pond dry during the last heat wave
>>> .. didn't have an easy way to know if the intake to the pond
>>> was still running.
>>>
>>> so I lost siphon and man.. 2 inch and 1-1/2 inch pipe with air
>>> pockets can make a hell of a blast .. was worried that my
>>> whole system was going to shake apart. Need a way to bleed
>>> out the air when I need a restart after drawing down the
>>> pond.. or some kind of super smart valve that will shut off
>>> when it runs itself out of water.
>>
>> Take a look at how toilet flush valves work, as a possibility
>> for a pond level shutoff. Or, get a pump float switch for the
>> pond level detection, and perhaps use sprinkler valves at the
>> bottom end, although they might make troublesome turbulence.
>
>
> Yeah I have a scheme in mind for that.. the reverse toilet idea.
> Where it keeps a valve open till the pond is empty, and then
> keeps it closed till the pond is full again.
>
> Its kind of involving various floats and such .. dono. Haven't
> really hit on a slick solution that doesn't involve some pretty
> rube goldberg contraptions :)
>
> Right now I just have the pipe shoved into the pond with a
> filter on it.. come summer the plan is to put in a more
> permanent intake .. when its hot and I feel like standing around
> in the water all day ;)
>
> Was thinking some kind of murcury switch on a float anchored to
> the side of the pond, where if the water level drops past a
> certain point it would trigger the valve to shut off .. probably
> need a 12 volt valve that I could maybe rig a solar panel to
> keep charged. Heck if I have a 12 volt battery up there I could
> use that to run a video camera too and see if that bear is up
> there, or if the Elk are around.
>
> I've seen a lot of Elk tracks (and deer naturally) but word is
> getting out there is a good water spot so the local critters
> have been visiting.
>
> -zachary
>
>
Have the intake valve pointing upwards
Find a ball a little larger than the intake valve
Make up a couple of floats that together are strong enough to lift
the ball up off of the intake pipe against the suction of the
siphon
Fastion a length of stainless steel chain to the ball
Place the first float on the chain at the point that you want the
water level to be to stop the flow into the intake
Place the second float above that point at the point where you want
the intake to open again
Build some sort of cage structure to hold the ball and both floats
in alignment above the intake.
Start the siphon. As long as the water level is high enough to
float the bottom float, it will keep the ball off of the intake and
water will flow.
When the water gets low enough to lower the ball onto the intake,
the water will not flow but the siphon should be maintained.
When the pond fills enough to float BOTH floats, the ball will be
lifted off of the intake and the siphon should start flowing again.
(In this case the second float is providing the force supplied by
pressing down on the flush handle in a toilet.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
Posted by Ulysses on May 22, 2008, 12:09 pm
>>
> its more comlicated than that. Unless i'm just completely stupid.
> imagine a pond 10 feet deep, with constant water flowing into it. When
> the pond reaches 2 feet deep you want a valve to close, and when it
> reaches 10 feet deep again you want it to open .. and stay open till you
> reach 2 feet again.
> Using a rod hooked to a float that was 8 feet long would open the valve
> at 10 feet of water, but how does it know to close at 2 feet. A rod
> would close the valve as soon as the water level went down even a foot.
> A chain would allow the valve to remain open as it drains down to 2 feet,
> but then what action would cause the valve to close?
> Perhaps the ball valve cage you've described could work if the weight of
> the float was enough to close the valve, and then hooked to a chain it
> would open when the water level reached 10 feet. But I don't know if the
> weight of that float would be enough to close a valve.. like i'd have to
> be heavy so i'd also have to have boyancy enough to open the valve again.
> There is the same problem with a flapper -- if it requires upward
> pressure to remain open then once the float slacks it would close -- or
> if it is stiff enough that it remains open again some action would have
> to act upon it to make it decide to close when the water level was low.
> Now I could easily be having a brain issue and just not getting
> something.. been known to happen :)
I'm no plumber but I am the proud owner of three flushing toilets (after
years of using a composting toilet) and I *think* this is how the flapper
works: it is hollow and open at the bottom. When you flush the toilet the
water runs out of the tank and also out of the flapper which means it is now
full of air so it floats keeping the tank drain open. As the tank fills
with water so does the flapper causing it to fall thus closing the drain
hole. I'm not sure what keeps it closed at this point because once again it
will be filled with air. Possibly vacuum. Also possibly one of mankinds
greatest engineering achievements Maybe you could go to a gas station and
study one until the owner starts beating on the door asking you what the
hell you are doing in there.
Posted by Neon John on May 22, 2008, 12:20 pm
>> You could make or modify a simple caged ball valve, with a
>> rod connecting the ball in the cage to a float/ball above the cage
>> at a height you would want the pond to be for extracting water.
>> The ball in the cage would be modified so it wouldn't float, or
>> replaced with a plug. The cage would be made to keep debris
>> out of the valve and provide support to the rod where it exits
>> the cage.
>>
>its more comlicated than that. Unless i'm just completely stupid.
>imagine a pond 10 feet deep, with constant water flowing into it. When
>the pond reaches 2 feet deep you want a valve to close, and when it
>reaches 10 feet deep again you want it to open .. and stay open till you
>reach 2 feet again.
>Using a rod hooked to a float that was 8 feet long would open the valve
>at 10 feet of water, but how does it know to close at 2 feet. A rod
>would close the valve as soon as the water level went down even a foot.
>A chain would allow the valve to remain open as it drains down to 2 feet,
>but then what action would cause the valve to close?
>Perhaps the ball valve cage you've described could work if the weight of
>the float was enough to close the valve, and then hooked to a chain it
>would open when the water level reached 10 feet. But I don't know if the
>weight of that float would be enough to close a valve.. like i'd have to
>be heavy so i'd also have to have boyancy enough to open the valve again.
>There is the same problem with a flapper -- if it requires upward
>pressure to remain open then once the float slacks it would close -- or
>if it is stiff enough that it remains open again some action would have
>to act upon it to make it decide to close when the water level was low.
>Now I could easily be having a brain issue and just not getting
>something.. been known to happen :)
Still very simple. Starting with my caged ball valve, select a ball size that
isn't quite large enough to float against the suction. Attach a second larger
ball to the first with a length of string, stainless steel wire rope or
whatever, the length of which is set to where you want the valve to open.
Starting with the valve closed, that is, the smaller ball stuck to the
opening. The pond fills until the upper ball takes up all the slack in the
string. It pulls the lower ball off its seat. It floats to the top of the
cage where it remains even as the water drops. When the level drops to the
point where the ball can be sucked onto the opening again, the flow stops.
Rinse and repeat.
It doesn't even have to be a string. A long brass or stainless rod attached
to the lower ball and passing through the upper one would do the trick. That
is the construction used by some industrial valves I've seen. You can even
place the whole thing inside a perforated metal cylinder to screen out
sticks'n stuff.
Forget the toilet flapper idea. Given how cheap they're made today, it'd end
up in your turbine nozzle in no time. A flat piece of stock would work but
then you'd be complicating it again, requiring a second ball or other
flotation device.
I'm going to suggest that a simple hard plastic play ball will work for the
caged ball and any sort of play ball, perhaps one of those with the eye on it
to attach a rope to, will work for the larger one. If a play ball turns out
not to be durable enough then a wide array of hard plastic balls are available
for industrial use.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
There are only 10 types of people in this world
Those who understand binary and those who don't.
> Tie a float on the other end of the string. When the pond empties far enough,
> the flapper will automatically close. When it fills far enough, the float
> will pull on the string and open the flapper again. The only hard part will be
> to figure out how to keep the string from getting caught in the flapper.