Posted by eraser on May 4, 2005, 3:42 pm
Thanks for the help
.au...
> > The application is to power a farm shed , i will be using ground but
have
> > not drawn them up yet as to make the drawing less confusing
> >
> The US NEC actually has slightly different rules for agricultural
buildings
> than for homes. The NEC rules still apply if you are in the US, and likely
> there are other
> governing bodies if you are not. It's important to follow these rules to
> build a safe system. Since you
> are 240Vac, you must be non-US.
> I was not able to see anything seriously "wrong" with your drawing other
> than the fact that grounds are not shown. It seems to indicate that you
have
> a general understanding of how such a system goes together conceptually.
> But, you need to attach some numbers to it before it could be evaluated to
> any meaningful extent.
> Something that does strike me as odd is the inverter isolator switch. A
> large capacity switch
> ( and breaker or fuse) is required between battery bank and the inverter
and
> these can be quite costly.
> It is unclear from the drawing how your switch operates. There is no need
> (and I believe it is impractical) to have a direct connection from the PV
or
> wind charge controllers directly to
> the inverter. DC comes to the inverter from the batteries, through a
> breaker/fuse through a disconnect switch. PV and Wind charge controllers
> connect to the battery. There should be no direct connection between the
> charge source and the inverter if that is what your drawing implies. PV
and
> wind charging sources are too variable to be connected directly to an
> inverter.
> It does seem to me that you have put a lot of effort into meters and
> gauges.You might find that pre-packed components like charge controllers,
> and the better inverters
> include several built-in metering options that may make that part of your
> design unnecessaryor redundant. Have you selected what sizes and models of
> charge controller, inverter, PV panel,
> and wind generator you will use? If not, spend some time doing that before
> you expend a lot of
> effort on "rolling your own" metering subsystems. When you do, identify
them
> on your drawing.Pre-packaged systems usually come with pretty complete
> directions and wiring diagrams. Your effort
> might be better spent in selecting what pre-packaged system components are
> appropriate, and then following their recommended wiring practices.
> Have you done any planning on what your expected loads will be? This
> isimportant to understand if you have sufficient capacity in your
batteries,
> andalso if your charging system (PV and wind) can keep up with the demand
of
> the load. The trick is to achieve a balance between all of the major
> components. Wiring it all up is pretty simple.Designing a balanced system
> for a specific need is the harder part of design. (It's still not that
> hard,but it does need to be addressed to be successful)
> When you know the capacity of things like your battery bank, inverter,
load
> regulators,
> PV and wind regulators, you can begin to select appropriate wire and
(fuse)
> or breaker sizes.You can also begin to identify which types (make model)
of
> inverters, charge controllers that you will use.Once you have made those
> selections, you will know what metering and monitoring options are
> build-in, optional, or that you have to design yourself.
> Where is you AC distribution panel and breaker box, or do you plan on just
> plugging AC loads
> into the inverter directly? Most home type inverters (non RV) require a
> grounded AC distribution
> panel and breakers.
> While the drawing would seem nearly conceptually complete, it is missing
> many details that would
> make determining if it is "correct" difficult. What is the expected
> load?What is the size of the inverter, charge controllers, fuse and
breaker
> ratings? What part of the world are you in?
> How much sun and wind to you get. How far is the wind generator and PV
> panels from the battery?
> You show a 24Vdc inverter, but you only have a single PV panel. Have you
> found a single PV panel that puts out 24V? This also implies that each
> battery is 12v. Unless they
> are hulking huge batteries, two batteries is probably not going to support
> much of a load. Couple CPF lights?
> Without some numbers, it's next to impossible to evaluate whether it is a
> practical and safe system,
> or just a basic concept drawing. It may not be "wrong", but it is probably
> to simplified to be useful for evaluation.
> You might have a look at system design articles in homepower magazine.
They
> show charts of
> loads, identify inverters controllers by model number and capacity, list
> wire sizes, breaker types and sizes as well as showing the
interconnections
> between the various components.
> Given that type of more complete system description, it is possible for
> those with some
> experience to determine how well a system might perform, and if it will
be
> safe to use for a given purpose.
> Another approach is to look at complete pre-packages systems offered by
> retailers and installers.
> They typically try and offer relatively balanced systems. Look at what
they
> are offering in a small system and use that as a guide to what you may
need.
> You are off to a good start, but you have a ways to go before your cows
are
> watching TV.
> my $.02
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
Posted by John P@ Bengi on May 2, 2005, 7:21 pm
Can't read your jpeg too well. Half the lines appear to be missing??
> just wondering if someone could check out my wiring set up to see if is
> correct , thanks for any help
http://www.geocities.com/eraser1.geo/power.jpg
Posted by Tim Keating on May 6, 2005, 8:23 am
wrote:
>just wondering if someone could check out my wiring set up to see if is
>correct , thanks for any help http://www.geocities.com/eraser1.geo/power.jpg
Solar AMP gauge should be placed in circuit with the solar panel
before the Solar regulator. (The extra voltage drop will interfere
with proper operation of the voltage regulator.)
Solar disconnect switch should be combined with fuse(if possible)
to help eliminate power loss.
Over current protection missing for load regulator.
Over current protection missing for wind generator. (What happens
if the wind genny develops a short?, will the batteries burn up all
the wires?)
Missing regulator and energy dump circuit for Wind genny.
Green wire(ground?) connection to center tapped battery connection
will promote corrosion and early failure.
"Wind volts" is really a battery volts meter..(redundant with
e-meter?) Connect negative ground to near Wind amps shunt to
restore function. (it will still read close to battery volts, but
that will change once you get a regulator for the wind genny. )
Posted by eraser on May 7, 2005, 7:11 pm
Thanks for the help I have updated the diagram if you want to take a look.
http://www.geocities.com/eraser1.geo/power.jpg
I was told not to put over current protection in for wind gen, because if it
blow the wind gen would go over speed and destroy its self
this diagram here should explain the green wire
http://www.geocities.com/eraser1.geo/Dumploadinstructions.jpg
and the dump load circuit is for the wind geney
> wrote:
> >just wondering if someone could check out my wiring set up to see if is
> >correct , thanks for any help
http://www.geocities.com/eraser1.geo/power.jpg
> >
> Solar AMP gauge should be placed in circuit with the solar panel
> before the Solar regulator. (The extra voltage drop will interfere
> with proper operation of the voltage regulator.)
> Solar disconnect switch should be combined with fuse(if possible)
> to help eliminate power loss.
> Over current protection missing for load regulator.
> Over current protection missing for wind generator. (What happens
> if the wind genny develops a short?, will the batteries burn up all
> the wires?)
> Missing regulator and energy dump circuit for Wind genny.
> Green wire(ground?) connection to center tapped battery connection
> will promote corrosion and early failure.
> "Wind volts" is really a battery volts meter..(redundant with
> e-meter?) Connect negative ground to near Wind amps shunt to
> restore function. (it will still read close to battery volts, but
> that will change once you get a regulator for the wind genny. )
have
> > not drawn them up yet as to make the drawing less confusing
> >
> The US NEC actually has slightly different rules for agricultural