Posted by Steve Giannoni on November 14, 2006, 8:27 am
Recommended 2 year interval, I've extend to 3, due to the very high
quality of our water, lacking nearly all mineral content, and being
very nearly distilled. Changes too often will introduce excessive
corrosive agents and other contaminants, which after a period of
reactivity (and damage) will dissipate, leaving the coolant ideally
chemically "dead".
The changing procedure is covered on pages HT-6 and -7 of volume 2 of
the repair manual. I find the description deplorable, and to this day
wonder what's intended. I believe it's an attempt at purging all the
air from the system in one refilling operation. Let me say
emphatically, that this is simply IMPOSSIBLE, and be prepared to
top-up the coolant after each operation, much more at first and then
lesser with time until the level becomes stable.
Other informed perceptions on this most welcome & thanks ! ...
Posted by Michael Pardee on November 15, 2006, 12:20 am
> Recommended 2 year interval, I've extend to 3, due to the very high
> quality of our water, lacking nearly all mineral content, and being
> very nearly distilled. Changes too often will introduce excessive
> corrosive agents and other contaminants, which after a period of
> reactivity (and damage) will dissipate, leaving the coolant ideally
> chemically "dead".
> The changing procedure is covered on pages HT-6 and -7 of volume 2 of
> the repair manual. I find the description deplorable, and to this day
> wonder what's intended. I believe it's an attempt at purging all the
> air from the system in one refilling operation. Let me say
> emphatically, that this is simply IMPOSSIBLE, and be prepared to
> top-up the coolant after each operation, much more at first and then
> lesser with time until the level becomes stable.
> Other informed perceptions on this most welcome & thanks ! ...
Like all modern coolants, the engine and inverter coolants should be diluted
with distilled (deionized) water. I stay with the recommended intervals; as
long as distilled water is used the fresh coolant is better than the coolant
that has aged.
I agree about the way the Toyota manual (at least the Classic, dunno about
the 2G) depicts the inverter coolant change. I've found it works much better
to put the ends of the bleeder hoses in a drain jar on the floor rather than
direct them to the reservoir. Once the coolant starts siphoning it purges a
lot of air quickly. When bubbles no longer appear in the bleeder lines I
close the bleeders and complete the process the way the manual describes. As
others have mentioned, it still needs to be topped up after it is driven
around the block. Nothing like the real thing, I guess.
Mike
XML site map
> quality of our water, lacking nearly all mineral content, and being
> very nearly distilled. Changes too often will introduce excessive
> corrosive agents and other contaminants, which after a period of
> reactivity (and damage) will dissipate, leaving the coolant ideally
> chemically "dead".
> The changing procedure is covered on pages HT-6 and -7 of volume 2 of
> the repair manual. I find the description deplorable, and to this day
> wonder what's intended. I believe it's an attempt at purging all the
> air from the system in one refilling operation. Let me say
> emphatically, that this is simply IMPOSSIBLE, and be prepared to
> top-up the coolant after each operation, much more at first and then
> lesser with time until the level becomes stable.
> Other informed perceptions on this most welcome & thanks ! ...