Posted by Neo on August 21, 2010, 11:51 am
I purchased a 2010 Prius III in April 2010. I've been trying out a
variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have
purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.
On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD says that the Prius has gotten
about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated
the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg.
The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or
every 500 miles or so) is much less.
On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has been as
low as 52 mpg and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to
be around 60 mpg.
Posted by Neo on August 28, 2010, 1:19 pm
> I purchased a 2010 Prius III in April 2010. I've been trying out a
> variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have
> purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.
> On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD says that the Prius has gotten
> about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated
> the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg.
> The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or
> every 500 miles or so) is much less.
> On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has been as
> low as 52 mpg and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to
> be around 60 mpg.
After 578 miles, on my last fillup I computed that the
2010 Prius was getting 61.8 mpg (the MFD estimate was 65.5 mpg).
I finally got to checking the tire pressure
and the tire pressure was too low.
All four tires were at 30psi, Toyota specs the
front tires at 35psi and the rear tires at 33psi.
The OEM Yokohama tires are rated for a maximum
of 40psi. Many on PriusChat were saying they
had set the front tires at 40psi and the rear
tires at 38 psi. The 5psi over the the official
recommend psi level is suppose to increase
FE without causing problems in handling and
tire wear. I am a bit worried of setting the front
tires at their max psi ratting so I set all four
tires at 38psi.
I just installed a Scan Gauge II on the 2010 Prius. The
most useful gauge is the instantaneous MPG and the
RPM. The Instantaneous MPG shows a finer level of
detail than the Prius's MPG bar chart. It is useful to
monitor the RPM to see how hard the ICE is working.
The AVG (average mpg) seems to output the same
number as the Prius average MPG display.
With the scan gauge II and the higher
tire pressure, I hope to improve my FE
score will improve.
Posted by Neo on September 24, 2010, 8:01 pm
> > I purchased a 2010 Prius III in April 2010. I've been trying out a
> > variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have
> > purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.
> > On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD says that the Prius has gotten
> > about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated
> > the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg.
> > The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or
> > every 500 miles or so) is much less.
> > On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has been as
> > low as 52 mpg and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to
> > be around 60 mpg.
> After 578 miles, on my last fillup I computed that the
> 2010 Prius was getting 61.8 mpg (the MFD estimate was 65.5 mpg).
> I finally got to checking the tire pressure
> and the tire pressure was too low.
> All four tires were at 30psi, Toyota specs the
> front tires at 35psi and the rear tires at 33psi.
> The OEM Yokohama tires are rated for a maximum
> of 40psi. Many on PriusChat were saying they
> had set the front tires at 40psi and the rear
> tires at 38 psi. The 5psi over the the official
> recommend psi level is suppose to increase
> FE without causing problems in handling and
> tire wear. I am a bit worried of setting the front
> tires at their max psi ratting so I set all four
> tires at 38psi.
> I just installed a Scan Gauge II on the 2010 Prius. The
> most useful gauge is the instantaneous MPG and the
> RPM. The Instantaneous MPG shows a finer level of
> detail than the Prius's MPG bar chart. It is useful to
> monitor the RPM to see how hard the ICE is working.
> The AVG (average mpg) seems to output the same
> number as the Prius average MPG display.
> With the scan gauge II and the higher
> tire pressure, I hope to improve my FE
> score will improve.
I've raised the tire pressures to 40psi front and
38 psi rear. Even with the scanguage II - it is still
difficult to get the car's computer FE display to
register higher than 67 mpg over 200 miles.
(my actual top mpg during the summer is
probably slightly under 64 mpg). I suspect that
with better LLR tires, Michelin E/S, the mpg
could be improved by 2 or 3 mpg.
Getting FE higher than 67 mpg appears to
depends on finding a better route and given
the traffic pattern. To optimize hypermiling
a commuting route need to have atleast two lanes in
one direction(so other car can past you),
have very few stop signs and traffic lights
(so you could maintain the vehicle's momentum
as long as possible), be relatively flat
over a long distance(so energy would not
have to be expended going uphill in
either direction) , have a smooth road
surface (to extend the coasting time of
the car), and allow the car to go between
35 mph to 45 mph without impeding
the general traffic flow( which is the optimum
speed for the maximum fuel efficiency of
the vehicle)..
Posted by Neo on November 10, 2010, 8:22 am
> > > > I purchased a 2010 Prius III in April 2010. I've been trying out a
> > > > variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have
> > > > purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.
> > > > On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD says that the Prius has gotten
> > > > about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated
> > > > the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg.
> > > > The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or
> > > > every 500 miles or so) is much less.
> > > > On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has been as
> > > > low as 52 mpg and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to
> > > > be around 60 mpg.
> > > After 578 miles, on my last fillup I computed that the
> > > 2010 Prius was getting 61.8 mpg (the MFD estimate was 65.5 mpg).
> > > I finally got to checking the tire pressure
> > > and the tire pressure was too low.
> > > All four tires were at 30psi, Toyota specs the
> > > front tires at 35psi and the rear tires at 33psi.
> > > The OEM Yokohama tires are rated for a maximum
> > > of 40psi. Many on PriusChat were saying they
> > > had set the front tires at 40psi and the rear
> > > tires at 38 psi. The 5psi over the the official
> > > recommend psi level is suppose to increase
> > > FE without causing problems in handling and
> > > tire wear. I am a bit worried of setting the front
> > > tires at their max psi ratting so I set all four
> > > tires at 38psi.
> > > I just installed a Scan Gauge II on the 2010 Prius. The
> > > most useful gauge is the instantaneous MPG and the
> > > RPM. The Instantaneous MPG shows a finer level of
> > > detail than the Prius's MPG bar chart. It is useful to
> > > monitor the RPM to see how hard the ICE is working.
> > > The AVG (average mpg) seems to output the same
> > > number as the Prius average MPG display.
> > > With the scan gauge II and the higher
> > > tire pressure, I hope to improve my FE
> > > score will improve.
> > I've raised the tire pressures to 40psi front and
> > 38 psi rear. Even with the scanguage II - it is still
> > difficult to get the car's computer FE display to
> > register higher than 67 mpg over 200 miles.
> > (my actual top mpg during the summer is
> > probably slightly under 64 mpg). I suspect that
> > with better LLR tires, Michelin E/S, the mpg
> > could be improved by 2 or 3 mpg.
> > Getting FE higher than 67 mpg appears to
> > depends on finding a better route and given
> > the traffic pattern. To optimize hypermiling
> > a commuting route need to have atleast two lanes in
> > one direction(so other car can past you),
> > have very few stop signs and traffic lights
> > (so you could maintain the vehicle's momentum
> > as long as possible), be relatively flat
> > over a long distance(so energy would not
> > have to be expended going uphill in
> > either direction) , have a smooth road
> > surface (to extend the coasting time of
> > the car), and allow the car to go between
> > 35 mph to 45 mph without impeding
> > the general traffic flow( which is the optimum
> > speed for the maximum fuel efficiency of
> > the vehicle)..-
> The Scangauge II on my Prius has indicated
> that I was able to achieve over 55 miles per gallon
> by using Plus and Glide(P&G) cycle on a smooth road
> with slightly hilly terrain. This technique involves briefly
> accelerating (> 2000 rpm ) to achieve 45 mph and then
> pulling back on the accelerattor so that the HSI is
> in the middle of the ECO bar ( about 1200 RPM) and
> allowing the speed of the Prius to decrease to around 33
> mph before attempting to repeat the .P&G cycle all over again.
> This technique feels strange at first since the results
> are better than if one attempts to maintain
> a constant lower speed (35 mph) and allow
> the car to decrease its speed slightly(26 mpg) over
> the same route. While the ICE burns
> more gas during acceleration if the time of
> the acceleration burst is kept very short it
> could burn less gas than if the ICE is kept
> running at a lower but uniform burn rate
> over the same amount of time. The Prius
> because it is very heavy maintains its speed
> due to the kinetic/stored potential energy created
> during the acceleration. The trick is to avoid reaching
> a top speed that is faster than necessary. The top
> speed should not be any faster that the speed
> it would take so that if the Prius had to come
> to a full stop that by letting go of the accelerator
> one would have enough distance in front of the
> Prius so it could to coast to a stop. This is
> not practical in urban driving so a compromise
> top speed needs to be selected for a given section
> of a well know route. Knowing a good top speed
> for a section of road is key to obtaining the best
> FE results from a P&G cycle. Once the top desired speed has
> been achived- the driver drops the speed of Prius ICE
> to its most efficient mode which is indicated by being
> at the center or slightly right of the center of the ECO
> bar in the HSI indicator display OR the driver run the
> Prius only on the electric motors by pressing the accelerator so
> that HSI indicator bar is on the left side of the ECO.
> 2010 Prius III, Yokohama Avid S33 (40psi front, 38psi rear),
> Scangauge II
> current MPG (fcd) = 65 mpg
> Overall computer MPG = 60 mpg, 5400 miles
Colder temperature and the switch over to the winter fuel
blend of gasoline has cause the fuel mileage on the last tank
of gas ( +9 gallons, 540 miles, 58 mpg ) tp drop about 2 mpg.
The sudden drop in temperature and bad weather has made
it more problematic to maintain the tire pressure at
42 psi front and 40 psi rear. A drop in just one or two psi
will lower the coasting ability of the Prius and cause the
MPG to drop - so I've increased the tire pressure to 44 psi
front and 42 psi rear. The drop from 70F-50F to 40F-30F
temperature range forces the ICE to burn gas to warm up
the engine/catelytic converter (or recharge the battery) more
often -- after a full warmup cycle the overall mileage(AVG)
on the Scangauge II drops by about 3 to 5 mpg.
I tested a sub-route with no stop signs or lights but
with many steep short hills verses my usually sub-route
with a few stop lights and only a few less steep long hills.
( Georgia/Norbeck vs Georgia/Muncaster/Redland)
When subtracting traffic factor (by driving when
nobody is using the road) it is easier to hypermile/coast
on roads that have fewer longer flatter grade hills
than if the roads have many shorter steeper grade
hills - if there are only a few stop lights that are
easily seen from a distance the driver can
alter the car's speed to "time" the car so it does
not have to stop at the light (thus conserving the
car's momentum) so thus there does not have to be
a penalty for having traffic lights. However the penalty
for multiple steep hills is fixed. The penalty for using a
route with many more steeper hills was about a lost of
5 mpg. Essentially the shorter and steeper the
road grade is the more difficult it is to get the
downhill MPG gain to overcome the uphill MPG
loss. When driving through multiple short steep
hills without stopping one must maximize the MPG
at each downhill grade to mitigate MPG losses from
going up each uphill grade. A short burst of power
at the very top of the hill is more useful in gaining
speed and momentum ( to go help going up the
next hill) than applying the power at the bottom
of the hill. To get the best MPG, the uphill speed
must be allowed to drop as the car goes up the
peak of the hill - attempting to accelerate or
maintaining the cars speed uphill will case the
MPG to drop. How far one can allows the MPG
is heavily dependent on traffic conditions.
Because the Prius is very heavy and its
power to weight ratio is not all that high -
FE suffers more during low speed acceleration
and uphill climbing than if it were lighter
car or a car with a more powerful ICE/MG.
combination.
As the winter approaches - I am investigating
blocking the front air intakes to help the ICE stay warm.
This requires monitoring the coolant temperature (FWT)
so that the engine does not over heat.
2010 Prius III, Yokohama Avid S33 (44psi front, 42psi rear),
Scangauge II ( RPM, MPG, FWT, AVG)
current MPG (fcd) = 60 mpg
Overall estimated MPG = 60 mpg, 5700 miles
Posted by Bruce Richmond on November 12, 2010, 1:13 am
> > > > > I purchased a 2010 Prius III in April 2010. I've been trying out a
> > > > > variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have
> > > > > purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.
> > > > > On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD says that the Prius has gotten
> > > > > about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated
> > > > > the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg.
> > > > > The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or
> > > > > every 500 miles or so) is much less.
> > > > > On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has been as
> > > > > low as 52 mpg and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to
> > > > > be around 60 mpg.
> > > > After 578 miles, on my last fillup I computed that the
> > > > 2010 Prius was getting 61.8 mpg (the MFD estimate was 65.5 mpg).
> > > > I finally got to checking the tire pressure
> > > > and the tire pressure was too low.
> > > > All four tires were at 30psi, Toyota specs the
> > > > front tires at 35psi and the rear tires at 33psi.
> > > > The OEM Yokohama tires are rated for a maximum
> > > > of 40psi. Many on PriusChat were saying they
> > > > had set the front tires at 40psi and the rear
> > > > tires at 38 psi. The 5psi over the the official
> > > > recommend psi level is suppose to increase
> > > > FE without causing problems in handling and
> > > > tire wear. I am a bit worried of setting the front
> > > > tires at their max psi ratting so I set all four
> > > > tires at 38psi.
> > > > I just installed a Scan Gauge II on the 2010 Prius. The
> > > > most useful gauge is the instantaneous MPG and the
> > > > RPM. The Instantaneous MPG shows a finer level of
> > > > detail than the Prius's MPG bar chart. It is useful to
> > > > monitor the RPM to see how hard the ICE is working.
> > > > The AVG (average mpg) seems to output the same
> > > > number as the Prius average MPG display.
> > > > With the scan gauge II and the higher
> > > > tire pressure, I hope to improve my FE
> > > > score will improve.
> > > I've raised the tire pressures to 40psi front and
> > > 38 psi rear. Even with the scanguage II - it is still
> > > difficult to get the car's computer FE display to
> > > register higher than 67 mpg over 200 miles.
> > > (my actual top mpg during the summer is
> > > probably slightly under 64 mpg). I suspect that
> > > with better LLR tires, Michelin E/S, the mpg
> > > could be improved by 2 or 3 mpg.
> > > Getting FE higher than 67 mpg appears to
> > > depends on finding a better route and given
> > > the traffic pattern. To optimize hypermiling
> > > a commuting route need to have atleast two lanes in
> > > one direction(so other car can past you),
> > > have very few stop signs and traffic lights
> > > (so you could maintain the vehicle's momentum
> > > as long as possible), be relatively flat
> > > over a long distance(so energy would not
> > > have to be expended going uphill in
> > > either direction) , have a smooth road
> > > surface (to extend the coasting time of
> > > the car), and allow the car to go between
> > > 35 mph to 45 mph without impeding
> > > the general traffic flow( which is the optimum
> > > speed for the maximum fuel efficiency of
> > > the vehicle)..-
> > The Scangauge II on my Prius has indicated
> > that I was able to achieve over 55 miles per gallon
> > by using Plus and Glide(P&G) cycle on a smooth road
> > with slightly hilly terrain. This technique involves briefly
> > accelerating (> 2000 rpm ) to achieve 45 mph and then
> > pulling back on the accelerattor so that the HSI is
> > in the middle of the ECO bar ( about 1200 RPM) and
> > allowing the speed of the Prius to decrease to around 33
> > mph before attempting to repeat the .P&G cycle all over again.
> > This technique feels strange at first since the results
> > are better than if one attempts to maintain
> > a constant lower speed (35 mph) and allow
> > the car to decrease its speed slightly(26 mpg) over
> > the same route. While the ICE burns
> > more gas during acceleration if the time of
> > the acceleration burst is kept very short it
> > could burn less gas than if the ICE is kept
> > running at a lower but uniform burn rate
> > over the same amount of time. The Prius
> > because it is very heavy maintains its speed
> > due to the kinetic/stored potential energy created
> > during the acceleration. The trick is to avoid reaching
> > a top speed that is faster than necessary. The top
> > speed should not be any faster that the speed
> > it would take so that if the Prius had to come
> > to a full stop that by letting go of the accelerator
> > one would have enough distance in front of the
> > Prius so it could to coast to a stop. This is
> > not practical in urban driving so a compromise
> > top speed needs to be selected for a given section
> > of a well know route. Knowing a good top speed
> > for a section of road is key to obtaining the best
> > FE results from a P&G cycle. Once the top desired speed has
> > been achived- the driver drops the speed of Prius ICE
> > to its most efficient mode which is indicated by being
> > at the center or slightly right of the center of the ECO
> > bar in the HSI indicator display OR the driver run the
> > Prius only on the electric motors by pressing the accelerator so
> > that HSI indicator bar is on the left side of the ECO.
> > 2010 Prius III, Yokohama Avid S33 (40psi front, 38psi rear),
> > Scangauge II
> > current MPG (fcd) = 65 mpg
> > Overall computer MPG = 60 mpg, 5400 miles
> Colder temperature and the switch over to the winter fuel
> blend of gasoline has cause the fuel mileage on the last tank
> of gas ( +9 gallons, 540 miles, 58 mpg ) tp drop about 2 mpg.
> The sudden drop in temperature and bad weather has made
> it more problematic to maintain the tire pressure at
> 42 psi front and 40 psi rear. A drop in just one or two psi
> will lower the coasting ability of the Prius and cause the
> MPG to drop - so I've increased the tire pressure to 44 psi
> front and 42 psi rear. The drop from 70F-50F to 40F-30F
> temperature range forces the ICE to burn gas to warm up
> the engine/catelytic converter (or recharge the battery) more
> often -- after a full warmup cycle the overall mileage(AVG)
> on the Scangauge II drops by about 3 to 5 mpg.
> I tested a sub-route with no stop signs or lights but
> with many steep short hills verses my usually sub-route
> with a few stop lights and only a few less steep long hills.
> ( Georgia/Norbeck vs Georgia/Muncaster/Redland)
> When subtracting traffic factor (by driving when
> nobody is using the road) it is easier to hypermile/coast
> on roads that have fewer longer flatter grade hills
> than if the roads have many shorter steeper grade
> hills - if there are only a few stop lights that are
> easily seen from a distance the driver can
> alter the car's speed to "time" the car so it does
> not have to stop at the light (thus conserving the
> car's momentum) so thus there does not have to be
> a penalty for having traffic lights. However the penalty
> for multiple steep hills is fixed. The penalty for using a
> route with many more steeper hills was about a lost of
> 5 mpg. Essentially the shorter and steeper the
> road grade is the more difficult it is to get the
> downhill MPG gain to overcome the uphill MPG
> loss. When driving through multiple short steep
> hills without stopping one must maximize the MPG
> at each downhill grade to mitigate MPG losses from
> going up each uphill grade. A short burst of power
> at the very top of the hill is more useful in gaining
> speed and momentum ( to go help going up the
> next hill) than applying the power at the bottom
> of the hill. To get the best MPG, the uphill speed
> must be allowed to drop as the car goes up the
> peak of the hill - attempting to accelerate or
> maintaining the cars speed uphill will case the
> MPG to drop. How far one can allows the MPG
> is heavily dependent on traffic conditions.
> Because the Prius is very heavy and its
> power to weight ratio is not all that high -
> FE suffers more during low speed acceleration
> and uphill climbing than if it were lighter
> car or a car with a more powerful ICE/MG.
> combination.
> As the winter approaches - I am investigating
> blocking the front air intakes to help the ICE stay warm.
> This requires monitoring the coolant temperature (FWT)
> so that the engine does not over heat.
Blocking off the lower openings on my 2001 Prius allowed it to warm up
in about half the time, increasing my avg mpg by about 4 mpg doing
mostly 11 mile trips.
Tire pressure can also make a big difference. Going from 35 to 45
gained about 5 mpg. Cold temps will lower the pressure. Keep
checking as it gets colder. I am currently running 50 psi all
around. Good for maybe 2 mpg better than 45 psi.
Went from running 5w-30 Mobil 1 oil to 0w-30. Will be trying 0w-20 at
next change in about a month. Should help mpg with the cold weather.
Car starts fine in the cold (sub zero F)even with 5w-30.
> 2010 Prius III, Yokohama Avid S33 (44psi front, 42psi rear),
> Scangauge II ( RPM, MPG, FWT, AVG)
> current MPG (fcd) = 60 mpg
> Overall estimated MPG = 60 mpg, 5700 miles- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
> variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have
> purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.
> On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD says that the Prius has gotten
> about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated
> the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg.
> The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or
> every 500 miles or so) is much less.
> On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has been as
> low as 52 mpg and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to
> be around 60 mpg.