Hybrid Car – More Fun with Less Gas

2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results - Page 10

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Posted by Elmo P. Shagnasty on January 14, 2011, 10:54 am

I love watching ignorant people speak.

Posted by Al Falfa on January 14, 2011, 6:02 pm
"Elmo P. Shagnasty"  wrote in message

I love watching ignorant people speak.

Do you have a lip fetish?  I prefer to listen.

Posted by Daniel who wants to know on January 15, 2011, 7:25 am
If you are referring to me please enlighten me where I am wrong.

I have hand mounted everything from ATV tires all the way up to the 38"
tires on a John Deere tractor.  The inflation has to match the loading,
doorjamb is minimum for comfort, sidewall is maximum, and somewhere between
is the correct pressure.  If you have 80PSI cold rated tires on a full size
truck you only need all 80 when you have a load on.  For instance the NHW11
Prius was known to edge wear the OE tires at the stock 35/33 pressure.  The
tires wore evenly at 40/38 and higher.

Posted by Elmo P. Shagnasty on January 15, 2011, 1:34 pm

You would be wrong, but you may continue to think as you wish--until,
that is, you cause an accident.

Posted by Neo on January 25, 2011, 11:47 am
Previously, I had read that setting  the tire pressures to
50psi would return signficantly better fuel efficiency than the 44 psi
setting.  The suggestion to set the tire pressure at 50psi also
came with a warning that some loss of traction would occur
so I knew from the start that there would be some traction loss
but I didn't know precisely when traction loss would occur and
under what conditions. So I incrementally increasing the tire
with this trade off  in mind. I was amazed that it really took me
this long to experience the loss of traction though.  I was also
equally disappointed that I was not able to increase in the fuel
efficency from the previous setting of 44 psi after the tire pressure
was raised to 48 psi.  My guess is that the fuel efficiency gain
potential for tire overinflation is dependent on the tire make-model
and that 44 psi seems to be the upper limit for the particular
make and model of tire that I am using - atleast for the
winter driving environment.

If the Scangauge II coolant temperature (FWT) goes over 198 F
(Thermostat at 80% open) the grill blocks will be removed - sofar
my max coolant temperature has been 190F.  The main reasons
that I haven't been able to go over 190 F is that I haven't driven
longer than 65 minutes and it takes about 50 minutes just for
the coolant temperature to get up to 180 F when the outside
temperature is from about 20 F to 34 F. In generation 2 the
inverter air intakes are in the bottom grill. My generation 3 Prius
has the inverter air intakes at the top grill.  When the temperature
climbs back up to 50 F the (top) grill blocking for the inverters
comes off. When the temperature climbs back up to 60 F -
I will removing the rest of grill blocking at the bottom.
The inverter coolant is use to regulate the temperature of the
motor/generators - it prevents the motor/generators from
overheating.  I had grill blocked incrementally - adding more
blocking to see if I could reduce or eliminate the number of
times the ICE had to turn on to warm up the catalytic
converters.. Initially,  I blocked 100% the bottom grillI, which
reduced the frequency of the warm ups events during my
commute of 60 minutes to two to three times . Blocking the
top grill 50% reduce the frequency of the warms during a
60 minute urban commute to one or two warmup events.
It  was only when I block both the top and bottom grills
100% that I reduced the ICE warm up to when
intially starting up the car. I was very impressed with
my results.

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