I got an e-mail asking about inverter installation in a different
Prius and this is what I shared:
You want the inverter to be mounted as close to the 12V battery as
possible because of the high current it draws. Now that depends upon
which model of Prius you have:
NHW11 (2001-03) - left side of the trunk
NHW20 (2004-09) - right side of the trunk
ZVW30 (2010-current) - right rear of the trunk:
In our 2003 Prius, I got some 1/2" plywood and after making a
cardboard pattern, cut a new left-side wall that hinges at the bottom.
By mounting the inverter, I knew it would fit and nothing in the trunk
would 'crash into the wires.'
I am planning something similar for my wife's car with a few changes:
1) mounted in the under floor storage area again with a barrier so
stuff won't crash into the wires.
2) permanent 12V ground cable
3) 80A circuit breaker, safe mounted (found in RV supply stores)
4) 1kW, sine wave inverter (they are much better now!)
I've got to fill out a spreadsheet looking at the different models and
costs but it looks like it will run $70-250 depending upon options.
One key requirement is remote ON/OFF so it can be normally kept in an
off state until needed. But I'm on the fence about:
- no metrics
- built-in power indicators (makes it easier to balance the load
- USB port (then I need to hook up a computer and run a program
- - - end of note - - -
So the offer stands, either send an e-mail and I'll repost the answer
in the original thread keeping confidence or we can take this thread
to a moderated group where due to their predictable patterns, the
sociopaths quickly lose access when they go personal:
Yahoo group: "Prius_Technical_Stuff"
. . .
One warning is all loads need to be tested before the emergency:
o inrush - more than a few devices impose a significant inrush current
that can trip the power limits of the inverter. This can be as brief
as a single cycle. Mitigation can consist of starting the inrush loads
first but this is marginal. A better solution is to install an inrush
thermistor for that device.
o sustained temperature effects - motors are known to run warmer from
a modified, sine-wave source. What I did was measure the motor
external temperature after six hours on line power and then repeat the
test using the inverter power. A couple of degrees is not going to be
a problem but the time to find out is when you can get it repaired,
not during the power outage.
o use a quality UPS buffer - there will be a power loss but the UPS
can clean-up the power. A better solution is use a modern, sine-wave
Sad to say, we have a Panasonic, plasma TV that started failing during
the power outage. It should be back next week from warranty repair.
Then I'll test our Samsung LCD, backup TV. However, I'm thinking about
configuring my wife's Prius with a +1 kW, sine--wave inverter.
Having two Prius power systems provides redundancy during an extended
power outage. We can can then drive the spare car to get more fuel and
eliminate having to fill a spare gas can. Furthermore, splitting the
load allows us to run more major appliances.