using a 120v inverter - Page 5

 

I use the toroids to block higher frequencies from feeding back into the
12 VDC bus. I didn't want inverter noise to feed back into any of the
ECUs. The inverter vendors advises against toroids but they are there to
protect the $
0,000 car, not the $
00 inverter. So far, I've had no
problems.


Did you rig up a separate LiON pack as an energy storage buffer? Do you
have a skematic and/or photos somewhere?

I've racked my brains to figure out an affordable, power isolation
approach. Sure I can put in a 100A diode so current flows one-way but
there would be a 1.2 VDC forward voltage drop, 120 W.

The only way that makes sense would be a power MOSFET with a current
sense amplifier for the gate. This would provide a fractional forward
voltage drop. Properly designed, it could limit maximum current draw
from the car and thus protect the fusable link.  But there lies the path
of madness.

The next thought is to build a switching power supply with
ultra-capacitors as the energy buffer. The advantage is no battery
chemistry risks. But once I start that path, when do I stop? <grins>


In my case, I lower the hinged panel to access the inverter. This puts
it in one of the prefered mounting orientations. The unit already has an
internal fan and it is thermally protected. Since I still need to run
the power into the house, I simply keep the trunk cracked open and any
heat easily escapes.


Not quite. I modified my inverter to provide a remote ON/OFF switch.
This allows me to use the inverter when traveling to provide 110 VAC for
laptops or other light duty devices.

It is very important that the vehicle be ON and in "READY" when using
the inverter. The 12 VDC battery does not have enough power to run long
and you need to let the Prius engine cycle as needed to maintain
traction voltage. So my remote switch is powered by the cigarette
lighter circuit. This circuit is only on when the car is in "READY."


Only because I'm leary of LiON batteries due to their notorious
temperature sensitivity and constant current charge-discharge
characteristics. I'd probably replace them with NiMH if only because
NiMH are less finicky and don't have a reputation for self-destruct. But
it sounds like a clever approach to handling surge loads.

Bob Wilson

 

Well, there is the olde generator voltage regulator approach: a relay with a
current bucking coil added. You would have to wind your own bucking coil
(which is no easy thing with compact relay designs) and it is not a perfect
zero-crossover switcher, but it does offer essentially no forward voltage
drop. Maybe a more modern approach would involve a relay driven by a current
sensing driver.

Mike

 

About a year ago I bought a new, 7KW, 110V/220V, made-in-China, Honda
knock-off (parts interchangeable they told me), for $
00.00 complete with
electric start.  When I wired my home I equipped it with a generator panel
so it was a simple matter of making the power cord.  Works great and leaves
my Prius free to run for gas.  I see from this ad I was very lucky to find
it on sale:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/newgen7013.html

 

Was Istoben wrote:

Here you go:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item (0298932926

 

Yep, add electric start to that, drop the shipping, and it's just like mine.