NEC compliant battery cabinet???

 Deterred by the high cost and fragility of VRLA batteries, I'm considering
the construction of a battery cabinet in my basement.
The cabinet will hold six to eight 12V 120 ah flooded batteries.


I want this unit to be NEC compliant, and I would appreciate your assistance
in answering the following questions:

1. Is plywood a suitable construction material?
2. Is there a need for any finish to the wood?
3. The back of the cabinet would be the cinderblock basement wall. OK?
4. What size vent pipe?
5. Is through ventilation required? Ie., an upward draft?
6. Is gasketing or a splatter guard design desirable?
7. How much top clearance is advisable for ease of adding water?
8. Any notes regarding cables?
9. Notes regarding corrosion?
10. Any other notes regarding NEC compliance?

  On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 20:02:51 -0400, "Robert Morein"


Why not ask your local building department?  




Kirk

"Moe, Larry, the cheese!", Curly

 

considering

assistance

We don't have one. The township requires that plans be submitted to an
approved outside review company, and there is a fee involved.

 

I cannot speak to NEC compliance, but I can answer from my own home-built
battery box.

On 2004-06-18 nowhere@nowhere.com said:
   >Newsgroups: alt.solar.photovoltaic,alt.energy.homepower
   >1. Is plywood a suitable construction material?
That's what I used.  2x4 structure below to carry weight.

   >2. Is there a need for any finish to the wood?
I use Trojan T-105's, and they can be sloppy.  Definitely, yes.  I used a
layer of fiberglass cloth and a liberal coating of polyester resin.

   >3. The back of the cabinet would be the cinderblock basement wall.
   >OK?
I wouldn't.  Mine is a lidded tub.  Usual practice is to have liquid-tight
container big enough to hold all the electrolyte if all your batteries broke
open.

   >4. What size vent pipe?
Mine is 1 1/2", 10 ft. total vertical, last 4 ft. of black ABS is above
roof, in hot sun.

   >5. Is through ventilation required? Ie., an upward draft?
I get that naturally.  In 3 years I've never smelled battery except when the
box cover is off.

   >6. Is gasketing or a splatter guard design desirable?
I didn't.

   >7. How much top clearance is advisable for ease of adding water?
I prefer a completely removable cover for unobstructed access and view of
cell ports.  My units weigh over 60 lbs. each, and I want to lift them
straight up and out with the strap, be able to use a small crane when I'm
older (68 now).
Get a self-shutting-off battery filler.  Mine came from Car-Quest Auto
Parts, $12 (?).  Worth it when servicing my 36 cells!

   >8. Any notes regarding cables?
I cut notches in top edge of box side, let ventilating air come in through
them.  Use big wire, good connections.  I crimped and soldered my lugs, put
shrink tube over strip-gap.

   >9. Notes regarding corrosion?
Grease terminals.  Vaseline is sorta OK, best I've found is made by Bosch,
bought it years ago in a BMW motorcycle shop.
Don't overfill cells.  I always seem to get one unit that leaks a bit around
the terminal posts, more if overfilled.  When servicing, I brush tops with
baking soda solution (foam brush), carefully avoiding getting any into
cells.
Never top up discharged batteries - electrolyte level rises with charge,
will overflow.  Add enough to cover plates (but you don't let it get that
low, do you?), top up after charge is complete.


Tom Willmon
Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA

Net-Tamer V 1.12.0 - Registered

 

Thanks for your detailed description.