Posted by John on November 15, 2005, 8:41 pm
: John wrote:
: > John
: Did you look into glazing for this option?
I was working on a 240 to 300 sq ft trickle collector for my pool. I ended
finding a commercial 240sq ft system for 350.00, plumbing parts cost me
another 100.00 so the total was 450 plus my time. Not bad since it came to
1.87 sq foot. And it put an average of 8 degrees F into the pool this past
summer (first year). 120sq ft are facing east and 120 sq ft facing south
(roof constraints on placement, ridge runs N to S :-(
I have since deleted all my images, drawings and notes on this project or I
would have forwarded them to you.
I did look at glazing, but for the most part, thats where I couldn't find an
inexpensive glazing other than greenhouse films. Things I considered:
- 5 or 10 mil mylar (I buy it direct for my work so I could get in cheap)
but I could not determine whether or not it would work as far as UV and all
that goes. My plastics distributor had no clue.
- Trash picking as much plexi as possible over a period of time. Contacting
supply house for 24 inch pieces (waste cuts, drops, pieces)
- Use the greenhouse plastic and replace ever year or so as needed.
Since the corrugated was 24 inch wide, my thought was to rivet the
corrugated in an aluminum frame made with 1x3 channels (home depot) , seal
the sides with a compound (What, I don't know), place a rubber gasket around
the perimeter of the frame, and screw the plexi to it. Getting the water out
a trough was a challenging thought. I was going to just drop it into the
gutter, and drain down into the pool.
If I were you I suggest that you bid your poly needs. Type a formal looking
request for quote and X number of pieces at X x X x X dimensions. Fax it
to at least four or five supply houses and see who replies. I did that when
I built my cabin and the hi to low had about a 1200.00 difference. It's
cash and carry business and I'm sure you can save. They order it, you buy
it, they have no carry costs, storage costs, etc... Give it a whirl, you
have nothing to lose.
Posted by gosolar23 on November 15, 2005, 10:09 pm
I pulled Harry Thomasson's patents. He basically has used his patents
as a tool for general public instructions on how to build his trickle
The aluminum siding is the back and sides of the frame. Convention
glass glazing is held to and away from the siding with GE silicone and
the glass is sealed with silicone.
Since it looks like Polycarbonate will not have a great shelf life with
continual exposure to steam I will probably go with conventional
glazing which has its benefits. There are some code issues to overcome
1/4" glazing is not terribly expensive, probably $-$/ft. But the
labor will be much more expensive than slapping up a big sheet of
polycarbonate. I am also toying with the idea of sandwhiching the two
sheets of siding by 1/4" space held off with silicon and running water
between and making an unglazed collector.
Posted by Gary on November 16, 2005, 3:42 am
This Home Power article describes a collector that uses two sheets of
corrugated metal roofing with the water passing between the two sheets:
Low Cost Solar House Heating
Chester Johnson and Joel Chinkes
Search HP archives for issue 59
There might be some useful information on how he did it, and how well
it worked out.
Its not clear to me why you don't still need the glazing to prevent
excessive heat loss from the top metal sheet? But, it probably could
be Polycarbonate, since it would not have much exposure to the
A couple other approaches things to think about:
You can buy what look like well made preassembled absorber plates from
for about $.50 per sqft. I believe that you could use these with the
Polycarbonate glazing. This might not come out much different than
glass over trickle collector, and would probably be more efficient (at
least at colder temps).
"Build It Yourself" Solar Projects
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Posted by Jeff Thies on November 11, 2005, 11:02 am
Remember that that is corrugated and and the actual distance is probably
closer to 6" than 3".
The fin efficiency equations are complex and make some assumptions that
are not really true here, so your idea of a IR temp meter is a good one.
There's a ton of variables here, including water flow, glazing to
absorber distance and insulation. Not to mention what happens when water
condenses on the bottom of the glazing!!! Can someone adress that?
A test collector would seem to be the way to go before a full scale.
and a heat transfer coef from the fin to ambient of 2 w/m^2-C.