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Attic heat for laundry pre-heat - Page 3

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Posted by websurf1 on October 2, 2005, 6:48 pm
 
I've pondered using outside air directly, and it would be OK in the
summer.  Dust is a severe problem here in the SE part of the valley.
There is "earth" dust on all the window sills and throughout the house
even when the house is closed up for air conditioning season.

The attractive part of the attic idea is that I'd get HOT air in the
summer, and pre-heated air in the winter.  But winter benefits are
pretty iffy.

I'd have to make a non-flammable interface between the hot attic air
duct and the dryer heater element container.  And make sure the air
flow was still sufficient.  And insulate the air duct for the short run
in air-conditioned space.  Maybe I'd have to have a way to put a damper
in the source duct, so hot air doesn't come in when the dryer isn't in
use (not likely: there are already so many holes in a modern house
between the attic and the AC space it isn't funny.)

Here's another question, slightly different topic.
I've disassembled my dryer several times; it's 25 years old and once in
a while little parts wear out.  This energy sucking, heat-throwing
device is not insulated at all.  It's a metal drum, uninsulated, in a
metal box, uninsulated, with lots of venting.
I'm impressed, I think, with some of these new laundry set we see,
where the washer is so much improved for energy and water efficiency.
But I never see anything talking about the specifics of the dryer.
(Maytag Neptune, etc.)
Are the new dryers any better than the old stuff?  Do they insulate the
drums?

(I've got to figger out how to cross-post this to
misc.consumers.frugal-living...)


Posted by Solar Flare on October 2, 2005, 7:05 pm
 
My 30 year old Maytag brings in fresh air around the drum and vents it
outside the drum in order to heat exchange some heat and keeps the shell
cool.


I've pondered using outside air directly, and it would be OK in the
summer.  Dust is a severe problem here in the SE part of the valley.
There is "earth" dust on all the window sills and throughout the house
even when the house is closed up for air conditioning season.

The attractive part of the attic idea is that I'd get HOT air in the
summer, and pre-heated air in the winter.  But winter benefits are
pretty iffy.

I'd have to make a non-flammable interface between the hot attic air
duct and the dryer heater element container.  And make sure the air
flow was still sufficient.  And insulate the air duct for the short run
in air-conditioned space.  Maybe I'd have to have a way to put a damper
in the source duct, so hot air doesn't come in when the dryer isn't in
use (not likely: there are already so many holes in a modern house
between the attic and the AC space it isn't funny.)

Here's another question, slightly different topic.
I've disassembled my dryer several times; it's 25 years old and once in
a while little parts wear out.  This energy sucking, heat-throwing
device is not insulated at all.  It's a metal drum, uninsulated, in a
metal box, uninsulated, with lots of venting.
I'm impressed, I think, with some of these new laundry set we see,
where the washer is so much improved for energy and water efficiency.
But I never see anything talking about the specifics of the dryer.
(Maytag Neptune, etc.)
Are the new dryers any better than the old stuff?  Do they insulate the
drums?

(I've got to figger out how to cross-post this to
misc.consumers.frugal-living...)



Posted by Paul on October 2, 2005, 7:19 pm
   I like the idea of venting the intake. Attics may be damp and certainly
dirty. I don't know that I would like fiberglass insulation in my clothes.
It might be nice to have a filtered dryer intake with a ducting redirector.
During the summer take in air from the outside, during the winter take
it from the inside.



Posted by samc on October 3, 2005, 2:15 pm
 websurf1@cox.net wrote:


have just realised there are 2 threds and I posted to the one nobody is
useing .

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