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Concrete slab desireable for radiant flooring? - Page 5

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Posted by Cosmopolite on November 7, 2005, 2:24 am
 
Iain McClatchie wrote:

    A good method is to have a measuring tape or yardstick against each
wall to locate the first line or loop. If you are fairly accurate, you
can mark them anytime later. I use the tape method when inspecting
inside tanks to show the size of any damage.

Posted by Me on November 7, 2005, 7:04 pm
 


It is the pictures that are important to have,  It could have been taken
with any camera, Polaroid, Digital, Film Ect....  Most thinking folks
document everthing, during a construction project.  Those folks that
don't, just show their lack of judgment.....

Me

Posted by Solar Flare on November 7, 2005, 10:46 pm
 Not everybody has an anxiety problem, building.

Good idea though. I have done some with chemical film. Had two cameras stolen
from my car while building and gave up...LOL



Posted by Me on November 8, 2005, 6:37 pm
 

I have never had a camera stole from my car, or anywhere else.....You
must just be very lucky.......


Me

Posted by Gary on November 5, 2005, 3:46 pm
 Iain McClatchie wrote:

Warmboard is similar.  The warmboard panels are both the subfloor and
and also have the grooves for the PEX tubing.  They are about an inch
thick total with the PEX grooves routed in the top half inch or so.
With warmboard, they do a tubing layout for your whole floor, and then
ship you a set of the warmboards that are basically installed like a
subfloor (except you need to be careful that each piece of warmboard
is installed in the right place).  It is expensive, but they do claim
that the fact that its both subfloor and houses the PEX saves some
labor.  Since this is all done before any walls are put up, the tubing
loops can go right under walls.
I think that Wirsbo makes another system that goes over a regular
subfloor, and has grooves precut for the PEX -- it might be called
Quicktrak?


I've seen this in a high-end house

It can be done for just the cost of the layer of plywood that encloses
the PEX plus the labor to make the grooves.  I have seen descriptions
in which a router was used to cut the grooves for the PEX after the
plywood was laid down, and also schemes in which the plywood is laid
down in strips with spacing for the groove.  You still need the alum
heat spreaders, but those are required on method B anyway.

One more thing that you are probably already aware of, including an
"outdoor reset" will allow you to circulate lower temperature water
when the outside temperature is above the design cold temperature (eg
40F instead of 10F), and this will allow you to get more out of your
solar system.



www.BuildItSolar.com
gary@BuildItSolar.com
"Build It Yourself" Solar Projects










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