Posted by Bert Menkveld on September 28, 2003, 5:33 pm
Well, the way I've gone at this problem is much simpler: rip out the
plaster. Definitely not the least work, and a very messy business, but it
does allow you to insulate the wall properly. And my wife actually likes
drywall finishing.... :)
Posted by JNJ on September 29, 2003, 6:30 am
If I did that, the house would probably fall down..... :P
Posted by Zathera on September 28, 2003, 4:12 pm
"Bert Menkveld" <bertATreentronicsDOTcom> wrote in message
I whole heartily agree. I grew up in a 80+ year old farm house in Southern
Iowa. High on a hill and 2 story.
Dad chose electric radiant heat in the ceiling of each room. Inside and
outside did not lend well to modern connivances. We had to drop one ceiling
to get the plumbing in. No running water when we moved in.
Back to your issue. Father hired an insulation contractor and they drilled
2.5 inch holes in the walls and blew in insulation. Home was lath and
plaster with siding on the out side. Then he had installed storm windows.
Double, triple glazing was not around in the mid 60's when this was going
on. In the beginning we took the storms off each year, finally when the
window a/c's were installed the storms were installed permanently. Heating
bills were 700-800 a year before and 350 after the storms and insulation.
(I know we were paying like 2.5 cents a kwh)
WW grainer has IR thermostats for about a 100 bucks. They are point of aim
and work from 3-15 feet pretty well. I have used them for problem areas in
transformers and light fixtures for years. When hot or cold outside use the
IR inside and see where you are leaking air. Fix accordingly.
Insulation and mitigation will be the best bang for the buck. IMHO
Posted by JNJ on September 29, 2003, 6:33 am
Huh? You've totally lost me here.
Next year, next year....
Posted by nicksanspam on September 29, 2003, 11:47 am
Rayteck IR thermometers vs thermostats. Point to a spot on a wall or ceiling
and see that it's cooler and might need more insulation...