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Radiant Floor Heating Questions - Page 2

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Posted by Bruce in Alaska on February 28, 2004, 6:58 pm
 


What you needed to build is 2X6 Top and Bottom Plates with 2X4
Studs alternatly placed on each edge.  This creates thermal and
acustic isolation between the walls, and plenty of room for
multiple types of insulation.  It also make running wiring thru the
walls a lot easier.  If it is a bearing wall for a two Story building,
one can move the studs to 12" centers instead of the standard 16"
centers.

Bruce in alaska
--
add a <2> before @

Posted by daestrom on February 29, 2004, 3:40 pm
 


IIRC, some folks are having good success with metal studs.  I know, I know,
at first one would think that *metal* studs would bridge the insulation far
worse than wood.  But the things have actually very thin gauge metal 'web'
between the two '2"' faces so the higher thermal conductivity of the metal
is offset by being less than 1/16" wide.

Course, this is only really feasible in new construction situations, not a
back-fit.



Know *that* issue.  My wife and two daughters have similar desire to stay
warm ;-)


Sounds like a nice lady.  Mine too 'indulges' some of my hobbies.

daestrom



Posted by Anthony Matonak on February 28, 2004, 11:22 pm
 I'm no expert but I can point out the obvious. :)

Bryan Campbell wrote:
...

Always a good choice. Look up thermal drapes or even better, shutters.
It's really amazing what 4 inches of foam covering over the window will
do on a cold night.


Do the pipes run inside the insulated space or outside of it? Are
the water heater(s) inside the heated space? If they are inside then
it really doesn't matter much about how well they are insulated.
After all, where is the heat going to 'leak'? All it can do it make
your house warmer and that's the goal anyhow.


Good idea. Insulation is cheap and if it's a basement ceiling it
shouldn't be very difficult to install.


Since one of your follow-up postings mentioned that your significant
other likes this idea and that you like to tinker anyhow this is a
great idea. Sometimes things are worth doing simply because you want
to do them. Air heaters are cheaper and easier to make though.


I think it's likely you'll only see very marginal improvements by
going with fancier controls or different heater(s). Your best bang
for the buck is probably just mundane insulation and sealing drafts.

Of course, "More Power" can't hurt so the solar project sounds good.

Anthony


Posted by CraigNels on February 29, 2004, 12:00 am
 My 2 cents:

1.  I don't think a different control system is going to save you much.

2.  To get a sense of your current losses I'd suggest you download the free
trial version of Hydronics Design Studio from:
http://www.hydronicpros.com
I'd bet in your house leaks will be the dominant loss.  Caulk away and don't
forget those power outlets and light switches.

3.  SInce you are interested in efficiency and your hot water is shared (and
heavily used), you might look into a gray water heat exchanger like those from:
http://www.gfxtechnology.com

4.  For solar in your climate you might want to consider evacuated tube
collectors like those from:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item165640850&categoryA981

Best of luck.

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