Posted by nicksanspam on April 16, 2006, 6:24 pm
Wrong again, if the room temp is higher than the cold water temp.
Posted by Robert Gammon on April 16, 2006, 6:39 pm
I just realized my error, corrected myself and said yes, heat inlet
water to toilets anyway to get a closer to a balanced flow, increasing
the efficiency of the heat exchanger
Posted by daestrom on April 18, 2006, 8:34 pm
But remember GFX can only recover heat from a 'running water' situation. So
laundry (if you use hot water??), a bathtub, or a sink full of water used to
wash dishes doesn't do *anything* in the GFX. It stores very little heat
for recovery in these 'batch' mode processes.
It really only performs up to it's reputation with showers or if you run
water continuously while doing the dishes or some such.
While Nick's is not as convenient, and it may have some long-term
maintenance issues, it *does* recover/save energy from such batch processes.
But with a total 'storage' of only about 12 gallons, it still wouldn't
really help much in large bath-tub sort of thing (unless you bath in just 12
gallons of water).
Posted by Robert Gammon on April 16, 2006, 3:21 pm
Robert Gammon wrote:
Nick would like us to rebalance somewhat.
efficiency 6 8 <give Nick the benefit of the
doubt on higher efficiency
price 5 8 <lower price gets higher points
convenience 8 2 <Nick must separate toilets from
processing, GFX takes ALL
wife friendly 5 1 <GFX almost invisible, Nick's is
a largish stack of 4.5 inch pipe
Maintenance 10 1 <GFX never needs maintenance,
Nick's will need at
least annual cleaning
So use Nick's system if you are on a TIGHT, TIGHT budget and don't mind
the large coil of 4.5 inch black PE pipe in the basement, AND you can
isolate the toilet drains from all other drains.
Nick says GFX needs a toothbrush for cleaning. WHAT???? Its a straight
piece of 3 inch or 4 inch diameter copper pipe from 30 to 60 inches
long that the wastewater flows thru. If it ever needed to be cleaned,
its VERY simple to uncouple the clamps that hold it to the sewer,
disconnect the water (if proper disconnect fittings are installed,
usually not) , take it outside and flush the 3 inch or 4 inch copper
tube with a hose, perhaps running a soapy rag down the inside to rub
anuy residue off. However, the VERY VERY strong flow on the inside
wall of the pipe should keep the inside nearly spotless, subject to ONLY
the normal oxidation of copper in air
I can't as I have a slab foundation and NO basement (plumbing is buried
beneath the slab). The ONLY choice for me is a sewage ejector in the
corner of the garage, near where the main sewer line exits under the
slab with a GFX stack in the corner above the sewage ejector.
Posted by nicksanspam on April 16, 2006, 6:30 pm
Wrong again. Read much? :-)
Au contraire. That way, you could easily use either heat exchanger,
and you might use the flat spiral version with no pump.