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Solar Storage Tank Questions - Page 2

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Posted by amdx on September 14, 2008, 6:12 pm

Hi Mike,


I thought i t important to fill at the bottom of the tank, but if the T&P
valve pipe
extends down into the tank, I guess it's the same. I'll keep that in mind as
another option.

I thought that a large storage capacity was desireable ( think I read 80 gal
for a family of four) Yes, to the differential controller, circulate db tank
to the excisting water heater before the electric heat comes on.
  I might rethink the fill pipe to the excisting water heater, I don't see
any reason
that the heat exchanger can't fill near the top of the excisting water
heater ( it is hot
water coming from the heat exchanger). At any rate I would not want the fill
pipe to
close to the drain that goes into the heat exchanger ( wouldn't want to
recicrculate water that was
already heated.) Sorry, hope that makes sense!

I'd like to know your thoughts behind this.

Yes, I see a lot of articles from HP, I get a little ticked when I click on
a link and then
find it's from HP and I need to pay for it. ( that's OK that's capitalism) I
may have to
open my wallet and see what they have.

         Thanks, Mike

Posted by gary on September 17, 2008, 2:59 am
Hi Mike,

Yes -- its good to have the 80 gallons of solar storage in the drain
back tank.  I was just pointing out that the storage thats in the
drain back tank is not really accessible unless you have something to
move the water from the db tank to the water heater when its needed.

( think I read 80 gal

My understanding is that when people use their existing hot water tank
for storage of the solar heated water, that disconnecting the lower
element allows the solar to heat the water in most of the tank, and
the upper element to come in when the solar is not able to keep up.
Given that you have most of your solar heated water storage in the db
tank, maybe this would not be necessary.
I guess the thing to think about is when those electric elements will
come on -- you don't want any circumstances where you have solar
heated water available, but the electric elements come on anyway.

I do think that the digital subscription to HP with access to their
full archive is a good deal (I think thats the way its set up now).
They have published 126 issues going all the way back to 1987 -- lots
of very high quality material.

Posted by amdx on September 17, 2008, 11:53 am
Hi Mike,

  I'll have to think a little more about it, but here's my initial thought:
a differential sensor will cause the pump to circulate heat to the existing
water heater anytime the db tank is hotter than the existing tank. (there
might be
a limiting high temperature that shuts the pump off) Then I would hope the
heater would only come on when both the db and the existing tanks are about
the same temperture and below the thermostat set temp. for the electric

( think I read 80 gal

  Yes, lots of details and different methods, although at this beginning
point I'm leaning towards the db tank, but my mind could be changed.
  I'll search through the Home Power archives for more info.
I think some flow charts may help get my mind around the setup.


 Only 20 cents per issue, sounds great, I'll be looking at them soon!
                                              Thanks for the help, Mike.

Posted by linux konqueror in progress on September 17, 2008, 12:36 pm
To join this discussion.
Here you talking about enclosed system.
heat exchanger here> http://users.telenet.be/hagim/zonne_energie/heat%20exc=

Do you have control unit you may recommend?

Posted by amdx on September 17, 2008, 6:08 pm

Sorry, I don't have any knowledge about control units, yet!
Here's a picture of the heat exchanger I picked up at the local metal
I plan on putting it in a 70 gallon SS twenty inch diameter tank.

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